9920 Thermal - Cogging

[coolhandcountry]

Do you have a pic of how itis mounted? Have your tried other receivers? Check your wires and stuff as well. Did you try some other batteries? It should not be a heat problem with the setup unless something is not right. But If the cogging can cause heat problems as well.

I have posted some High Res pictures.
Warning - Pictures are Huge
http://www.rustyonline.net/html/rchirez.html

Thanks to everyone for the help!

Originally Posted by coolhandcountry

Do you have a pic of how itis mounted? Have your tried other receivers? Check your wires and stuff as well. Did you try some other batteries? It should not be a heat problem with the setup unless something is not right. But If the cogging can cause heat problems as well.

Pictures and video posted
http://www.rustyonline.net/html/rchirez.html

I have gone through the wires and checked solder. Seems to be OK.

I have tried multiple sets of batteries.

Thanks!

I believe there was steam coming out of the caps (516K0).
Is that what they do when they cook? Funny thing is that it still works???
I thought it was smoke, but it wasn't. I stopped running it and the steam stopped. Ran it again steam started to come out again.

[BrianG]

Hello. I don't have any experience with BL ESC's, but I do with electronics in general and those caps look bad. See how the tops are rounded? That means the electrolyte has expanded. This can be caused by age (usually 5-10 years, sooner if they are run at very close or just over their rated voltage), running a higher voltage than they are rated, or reversing polarity. The "steam" you saw was probably electrolyte gas escaping.

Capacitors are used to either pass a certain range of frequencies, or to smooth out voltage transients for a more constant current and voltage. I don't know of their function in that circuit, but since they are where the battery wires enter, I would guess they are being used to filter out noise entering the battery wires. They are too small to provide the transient function judging by the amperages the controller will require. Either way, they are needed and that is very likely what is causing your problem.

There are two ratings for a cap: voltage and "farads" usually expressed as uF. All I can see in the picture is 516k0, but on the other side, you should see the ratings I'm talking about. Most electronics shops (RadioShack) should carry those if you feel like replacing them - just be sure they are installed correctly. The white stripe denotes the negative lead.

Originally Posted by BrianG

Hello. I don't have any experience with BL ESC's, but I do with electronics in general and those caps look bad. See how the tops are rounded? That means the electrolyte has expanded. This can be caused by age (usually 5-10 years, sooner if they are run at very close or just over their rated voltage), running a higher voltage than they are rated, or reversing polarity. The "steam" you saw was probably electrolyte gas escaping.

Capacitors are used to either pass a certain range of frequencies, or to smooth out voltage transients for a more constant current and voltage. I don't know of their function in that circuit, but since they are where the battery wires enter, I would guess they are being used to filter out noise entering the battery wires. They are too small to provide the transient function judging by the amperages the controller will require. Either way, they are needed and that is very likely what is causing your problem.

There are two ratings for a cap: voltage and "farads" usually expressed as uF. All I can see in the picture is 516k0, but on the other side, you should see the ratings I'm talking about. Most electronics shops (RadioShack) should carry those if you feel like replacing them - just be sure they are installed correctly. The white stripe denotes the negative lead.

Wow, great post. Thanks for taking the time. I am learning a lot!
50v 470uf


The controller is only a couple of weeks old. It couldn't have more than 45 minutes run time on it and It cogged or shut down every time.

I wonder if it was bad to start, or If something else caused it. Anyway, I wouldn't want to replace the caps until I knew why it happened. I hope I can exchange it. I would hate to wait months sending it back to Germany.:020:

Thanks again for the great post!!!

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by bigabike

Wow, great post. Thanks for taking the time. I am learning a lot!
50v 470uf


The controller is only a couple of weeks old. It couldn't have more than 45 minutes run time on it and It cogged or shut down every time.

I wonder if it was bad to start, or If something else caused it. Anyway, I wouldn't want to replace the caps until I knew why it happened. I hope I can exchange it. I would hate to wait months sending it back to Germany.:020:

Thanks again for the great post!!!

NP.

The caps in the first picture you posted looked like they had rounded tops (especially the upper cap), but now the latest picture above seems to show they are flat (like they are supposed to be). Do you see how the tops are sort of "preforated"? This is so if the gas expands, these areas will split and release the gas without exploding. Do these look like they have been split? I really can't tell now from the pics.

If they are rounded/split, it can't be from excessive voltage as they are rated for 50v. Age is apparently not an issue either. The controller was never attached to the batteries in reverse polarity I suppose? I would think that if that were the case, you'd have a LOT more issues than just a couple of bad caps. I dunno...

Maybe the whole issue is as simple as dabid pointed out, but I don't like the fact that you saw "steam" from the caps at one point...

I hope the solution is simple for your sake.

No REverse Polarity.

Caps don't look split, but 2nd picture had time to cool.

Simple would be nice.

Hey Mike, any ideas?