I think I bought your snowmobile. I ended up talking to the guys in Rochester and bought $352 of stuff for it and still havent put it together. double shock rear suspension, wide skis and he made me a "turbo transmission" for a neu 1y.. I have revo shocks for the front and all the parts just havent sat down and put the puppy together.
Yep, your the one who got it. Its been like a year get that thing together! !
OK, here it is, don't laugh :) Yes, that is a hacked up motor pod and axle from an RC10L superspeedway. Was not a pretty setup, but was remarkably smooth and relatively free spinning. The hard part was lining everything up to get the proper tension on the belt, did not want to improvise a whole tensioner system. All of the electronics and batteries were kept under the seat which kept them away from the moisture, but again made it top heavy. Maybe this winter I'll get 'er up and running again, shouldn't take too much time. Oh yeah, don't ask how I got the metal pulley to attach to the 10L hub, was a nightmare. not as easy as you might think... big problem if not completely smooth where its bolted on... (think shredded belts)
"Studding the track is dangerous, these machines run at 3000 rpm’s and will certainly injure someone if they touch the studs while running."
DANGER!!!!
And then under 'helpful hints' they go on to suggest-
"Track Studding. There are many variations of studding, this example is a good one for the stock track supplied in your kit. The suds are No. 4 self tapping screws, phillips pan head, 3/8 “ long. Due to the clearance in your drive sprocket and the rear side Idlers the screws need to be placed 1/2 inch from the edge, minor adjusting may need to be made, since there are many variations of drive sprockets."
I remember stories about weird mishaps, like some dude put 60 sheet metal screws in his Tamiya Frog tires and proceeded to tear it up on his frozen swimming pool, and put one (or both?) eyes out with flying screws lol.