Quark 80b and hacker c40 motors

[JCUEVAS]

Now my rusty coggs allot! Like when I was running nimh packs with my mm7700 setup. When I went to lipo it stopped completely. You say that if I take off these connectors and add the castle ones my problem would deminish. I'm game to try anything that's not gonna void my warranty first. Think I might try direct soldering to eliminate any type of resistance. Thankyou everyone for all your help. Very very appreciated!

[JCUEVAS]

So here is what I did today. Remounted the esc to rpm mounts instead of the aluminum chassis. Soldered the esc to motor directly. Lowered the gear ratio. Set all esc settings to default. After all this, not much of a difference. I don't get it!

[suicideneil]

Got any decent lipos to test with- MA and Venom are known not to be great, may not be outputting enough juice and thats whats causing the stuttering from a standstill/ low rpms. Quark escs are nice, but, expensive for what they are and somewhat outdated even by the likes of the MMpro, or Tekins 1/10 escs etc.

[sikeston34m]

If the problem is the batteries not holding voltage under the startup load, then the ESC is tripping the LVC.

Just a thought, but do you have any way of checking the voltage of the pack while it's doing this "stuttering"?

[_paralyzed_]

Or shutting off or lowering the LVC via programming?

Are the motors new or used? A demagnetized motor will cog like crazy until something burns up.

What happens if the throttle is applied while the car is in the air? (no load)

Good connectors are necessary for the battery to esc connection as well. One bad solder joint anyhere will cause problems.

IMO the 5l is too much motor for that esc. It wouldn't cause the cogging, but that motor can pull more amps than the esc is capable of. If you get it running watch temps closely.

[JCUEVAS]

With no load it will run. I resoldered all the connections again directly. I hooked my maxamps packs to the unit. Still cogging and comining to a full stop.

[JCUEVAS]

The 5l specs say it has a regularly low amp draw. Even max curent was under I think 50 amps.

[snellemin]

The 5L has a low enough continuous ampdraw, but the burst is the killer. The numbers you are reading are for a helicopter and not a car.

[JCUEVAS]

What's the draw in my pede then?

[BrianG]

I didn't read the whole thread, but I have a couple Quark125B's and they are pretty smooth. They do tend to run warm, but that's nothing a little modding, a couple caps, and better heatsinking can't solve. I have always been a fan of Quark because of their smooth starts, but now that Castle has tweaked their software quite a bit, I find the MM/MMM/MMPro is just as smooth as the Quark.

If you haven't already done so, I would disable the LVC completely and try it. That will eliminate any chance of the batteries dipping too low. Also, I would try different batteries as well. I'm not a huge fan of Maxamps due to their real-world performance (I speak from experience) in even a gentle setup; 4s 5Ah 20C pack in a 2WD Slash on a 2200kv motor geared for ~35mph should NOT cause the batteries to get hot. Anyway, if it still stutters, I would start suspecting the ESC.

FYI: despite the 125A rating, the Quark 125 is roughly equivalent to the Mamba Max (regular one) current-wise, so I would probably equate the 80A version closer to that of a Sidewinder, or maybe a tad more. So, if it turns out to be faulty, a MM might be a good choice for replacement as long as you are running 4s (with BEC) or lower.

[sikeston34m]

If ESC replacement is in order, the Mamba Max Pro would fit that truck up VERY nicely.

It would also allow you the option to go up to 6S if you chose to do so.

[BrianG]

Yeah, if running over 4s, the MMPro would be a better choice. But I see people selling MM ESCs all the time so it would be a relatively cheap comparable ESC.

[JCUEVAS]

I have tried 3 different types of batteries. All different types of gearing and different settings. I did something wrong somewhere cause both systems are doing the same thing. Absolutely nothing. Rolls and stops.

[JERRY2KONE]

Originally Posted by JCUEVAS

I have tried 3 different types of batteries. All different types of gearing and different settings. I did something wrong somewhere cause both systems are doing the same thing. Absolutely nothing. Rolls and stops.

TIME to call on someone who uses these Quarks to check them out for you. Like maybe James aka lincpimp or BrianG, or even lutach who knows more about ESC's than just about anyone.

[_paralyzed_]

are you SURE the motors are good? you never mentioned if you got them new or used.

Do you feel any heat on the motor or esc when this happens?