What parts to buy for MBXt6 M Spec

[Zyoss32]

I have only raced a team associated T4 two wheel drive, wanted to get into
the 1/8 truggy brushless class and have decided on the MBX6t and have ordered
it in the M spec, I now would like your advice on all the parts i should buy and
replace on this truggy, lets say money is no object and I want the best racing
set up.
If could be specific with items I am new and do not know all the lingo with brushless conversions especially on 1/8 truggy

Thanks so much in advance for all advice and help I will be all ears

Tekin, Neu, Castle Creations, RCM, Tekno, Elite, BCE Chassis, Enerland, Hyperion Batteries ETC.

What is a waste of money and what is really going to benefit me,

Would like to keep my speed between 40 and 50mph 12-15 minute runs if possible

[itbvolks]

No need for 50mph for racing. Gear it for 37-40 and all will be good. MBX is nice. I don't recommend too many parts honestly.

Things for converting to brushless are as follows:

RCM - Brushless motor mount
RCM - Battery tray
Brushless Sytem - (I like Tekin but could be Castleor any other 1/8th option)
Batteries - Take your pick (several options available depending on budget)
Charger - Again, many options (I run Hyperion batts and charger)
Radio Gear - Big'ish servo (metal gears) and something easy to program


Spares -Front arms (upper and lower) are nice. Shock bladders. Bearings. Wheels. Tires.

Remember, the M-Spec kit doesn't come with wheels and tires so factor that in. Otherwise, its a good tough kit. Understand 1/8th truggys are really quick so depending on skill level, more spares may be required. lol

[itbvolks]

Mine.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26414

[lutach]

I have the older MBX5T and the Mugen truggy you have is a great choice. You can start by going to RC-Monster's store and you will be able to find everything needed for a great conversion. Most racing set ups are using 4 and 5S lipos and motors ranging from 1900-2200Kv. Use BrianG's calculator to determine the proper speed estimate with around .5 to 1" of tire ballooning. I noticed a few set ups that don't use the tire ballooning option geared for 40mph and they seem to show some problems. My MBX5T runs on 8S lipos and I have it geared for 34mph, but with the tire ballooning it actually went a tad over 40mph radar confirmed. You can also ask Mike on his set up, I think he also runs the MBX6T as well as a couple of other members in the forum.

[Zyoss32]

At work so every extra second i get i am checking thanks for responding so quickly
thinking of going this route:
Tekin rx8/1700kv combo out of stock on here
Hyperion G3 VX 5500 mah 5S 18.5V 35c/65c Lipo
RC monster conversion it is out of stock

my questions are gearing 16/46

is this mod 1 not sure and a newb question but i have an older hyperion charger the Eos dual 06 something how to power supply this thing i always charge with
cable connected to car battery any other options here again i am new to this
and need basic help thanks for all responses and advice

and what is best way to connect motor to ESC bullets deans direct soder?

[Zyoss32]

ITBVOLKS great build i read entire thread and really that made my decision to go
with the mugen, I really do not understand the sliperential thing, keep the stock
or is this something as i progress and learn more i should learn now and do

does the RCM slip replace the the stock diff on the m spec or how does it convert thanks

[Zyoss32]

Wallot yes you have an awesome set up as well, you guys are all much more
knowledgeable than me on this and when you say lightinged drive train what actually did you purchase to fit and from were did you get, aluminum vs steel
and etc. do you believe the BCE chassis is worth the investment for me I know
for you it is a no brainer you are very skilled driver and weight i take is the big
advantage it gives you over stock chassis i assume.

thanks again this will help me trememdously as i learn

[wallot]

best racing setup?

check my build http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ighlight=racer

I ended up with elitercd motor mount and rc-monster battery tray.

fully lightened drivetrain, BCE chassis, M2C racing toe blocks.

[wallot]

BCE chassis is not lighter, it is just more rigid which makes truck to be more stable during flight and in turns.

lightened drivetrain parts - aluminum axles and CVD joints from mugen

2x MUGE0242
1x MUGE0243

I recommend you to start with the stock truck and go from there. First you need to see how it handles. Some people prefer heavier truck as it is more stable.
My mugen is very aggressive with lots of grip that can be sometimes hard to control in turns as it likes to roll over thanks to all the grip.

[simplechamp]

The Slipperential basically takes a standard 1/8 diff and combines it with a slipper clutch. It is a custom unique design only available from RC Monster. It's perfect for racing or bashing. Racing, because you can tune the slip to adjust power transfer depending on how much traction is on the track. Bashing, because it protects your drivetrain from wear and tear.

I'll admit I thought $120 seemed pricey when I was first looking at them, but after trying one it is worth every penny.

The Slipperential will replace the stock center diff in your MBX6T and will drop right in. If anything it will take a few shims, but that's how any 1/8 diff is anyway.

[Zyoss32]

Thanks Simplechamp much appreciated.

[itbvolks]

I'd honestly stay away from the alum outdrives. I had one fail last weekend (front axel) for no apparent reason. Little jump and the front wheel popped off. I thought I lost a wheel nut,,,, until I picked up the tire and the axel was still attached to the wheel....

I am still running the alum centers though. I also prefer the alum mugen shock towers as I've seen a few failures....

[Zyoss32]

do you recommend stying with the stock outdrives or is their other options

such as steel etc.

thanks for info

I bought extra arms, extra shocks, spare aluminum shock towers, aluminum rear hubs, etc.

[itbvolks]

I went back to the oe steels. Not enough of a weight savings to risk the dnf due to a failure. Luckily mine failed during practice.

I am still running the center cvd cups. No probe there. Time will tell if wear becomes an issue.