Project: Savage Flux 5T

[thzero]

It's the HPI Baja 5B body. :) Check out my gallery (http://picasaweb.google.com/thzerodo...x5BConversion#) for some more shots of how I mounted it.

Right now I'm using the ProLine 23mm hubs that are wrapped with some metal tape to get the "fit" snug. I, like probably most folks with conversions, are waiting on the 24mm hubs from HPI that are still on backorder.

Originally Posted by Finnster

what body is that, and how did you do the hubs? Are they 23mm on 24mm wheels?

I may seriously reconsider my savage remake I'm working on to do this as a baja. Me likey mucho.

[Semi Pro]

Originally Posted by thzero

It's the HPI Baja 5B body. :) Check out my gallery (http://picasaweb.google.com/thzerodo...x5BConversion#) for some more shots of how I mounted it.

Right now I'm using the ProLine 23mm hubs that are wrapped with some metal tape to get the "fit" snug. I, like probably most folks with conversions, are waiting on the 24mm hubs from HPI that are still on backorder.

keep in mind that the hpi 24mm hexes for the savage 5t are for 6mm axels not the 8mm axels that are common on most 1/8 scale trucks

[thzero]

Thanks, but they aren't the 24mm for the Savage 5T.

These are the 24mm hubs I am talking about:

http://www.hpiracing.com/press/102530.html

Originally Posted by Semi Pro

keep in mind that the hpi 24mm hexes for the savage 5t are for 6mm axels not the 8mm axels that are common on most 1/8 scale trucks

[thzero]

Well after four bash sessions, here are some pics of my collection of broken parts; both the front and rear I managed to destroy, but the rear was worse. Needless to say I've gone to the "bullet proof" diffs, we'll see how long they last.



Then over the 4th, I landed a 6' air jump or so on the left rear and snapped the axle at the thread.



In addition to the broken axle, I seem to be running through Pro-Lines 23mm hex adapters. IMO they aren't very good as they remove too much material; while less unsprung weight is good, if it does not have enough strength then its worthless. The HPI hub adapters (http://www.hpiracing.com/press/102530.html; if they ever come out) look to be much better as they have a set of 6 holes to help lighten, but it still leaves lots of material for strength.



However they also suffer the issue of being mounted on the vehicle via the threaded end of the axle shaft.

Think I'm going to see what Mike might be able to do to mount the http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HPIC5357&P=7 24mm Adapters from the Baja. They have a 4mm pin that goes through the hub so that should be stronger. Issues are that the axle shaft would need the pin hole drilled out to 4mm (shouldn't be too big of an issue with a drill press) and need to have a 8 to 12mm adapter sleeve. Would also need some type of end cap that would screw onto the end to keep the sleeve in place and relieve some stress off the pin.

[thzero]

Also considering just switching to the Pro-Line Trencher 3.8" All Terrain Front/Rear tires. They are about the same size as the rear Baja 5b; 6.88 vs 6.89 but a bit wider, like 3.43 vs 3.3 (or 2.6 for the fronts). Should be a bit lighter then the Baja tires and they run on the standard 17mm hexes, which are dang cheap. Won't get the staggered width size thats the "buggy" look, but oh well.

Still, need to get either a 4mm, or perferably a carbon fiber, chassis instead of the 5mm; think the latter is overkill and adds too much weight.

Some other thoughts would be to run something like http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWSY0&P=7 on at least the rear end to keep it from dancing around; would go with the HPI suspension kit, but you really can't get spare parts for it without buying the entire thing again.

Be nice though to get some front/rear hub carries that can handle a 24x12 bearing, then just run the http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HPIC6488&P=7 rear axles from the Baja; would just need to have a new dogbone that had a 11mm ball on one end for the diff, and 15mm for the axle on the other.

[Arct1k]

i was thinking of the same using the Axial 40 series wheels with the proline trenchers - That way i'd still get the offset

[Bmr4life]

Keep us informed. I love this thread.

[thzero]

If you are doing standard Flux stretched, the offset is probably needed; mine started as an XL so it doesn't really need the offset... really I'd recommend getting wider axles as opposed to offset wheels. I don't really care for the Axial wheels, at least the beadlocks; have a set with some BigJoes sitting in a closet.

Originally Posted by Arct1k

i was thinking of the same using the Axial 40 series wheels with the proline trenchers - That way i'd still get the offset

[danielc79]

my 5t conversion also has been having problems. went through 2 standard drive gears till i switched to a HD drive gear, that problem fixed. I broke an axle also, but up where the dogbone goes into the axle, one whole side broke off.

i'm having steering problems also, i have standard diffs and have heard putting some heavy diff fluid in will help with steering. Nothing stripped out in the diffs but may go to bulletproof next just in case. i did find both of my bottom arm pins on the front were bent, as well as the aluminum arm brace was screwd up so that may be doing it also.

just seems alot of problems come up when all that weight gets added on.

[thzero]

Too heavy of diff fluid will actually hurt the steering, not help it.

Are you using the Flux axles or the HD axles from the XL?

Well the Savage was designed as an 8th scale vehicle, not a 5th scale... :) So unless Mike is going to wow us with a 4WD mod for the Baja 5B/T now that his electric conversion is out the door... we're stuck.

[danielc79]

i've got the hd axles in it from an XL

what weight of fluid do you think would be good? i ordered some 30k, was going to do that in front and back, some people even suggested 50k in front and 30k in back, but i didn't want to just jump into 50k without trying something a little lighter.

one last question, when upgrading to bulletproof diffs, do all we need to change is the two gears on the outside, or are any of the insides different on the bulletproof diff? just need to know if upgrading my diffs is better, or if i should buy full bulletproof diffs off ebay.

[danielc79]

also want to let you know i use the integy axle carriers for the rear, and its nice not having to worry about toe links in the rear. i had a couple hub carriers break at the spot where the toe link connects to it, havn't had a problem with the rear since.

now its all the front thats causin headaches. i also need a better servo, but will wait till my hpi servo breaks before i spend the cash for a good hitec or something.

[Jahay]

i run 30k front and back... 50k in teh front will kill your steering and is way to thick.
You could run 30k front and 50k back if youwould like... Would give you some nice oversteer which i prefer with a longer truck...

The BP Diffs will hold up nicely, but i did manage to break a pinion but that was because i landed on throttle very hard... Otherwise you should have no problems

If i were you, you will soon find that the tranny will be the weak point for all the power... You will prob need to eventually look into a centre diff mod.

You should get the RSC Savage suspension conversion by HPI.... Increases steering and is very strong so no more probs with your hub carriers.

I love those baja wheels and tyres!!! They look great! But i hate the beadlock design... Im hoping some baja rims will come out without them...

[thzero]

To upgrade to the BP diffs, all you need are part #102692; it is just swapping the ring and bevel gears, all the internals are the same.

I've been running 20k/10k. Here's some info on what increasing/decreasing the thickness of oil will do:

Front

Thinner
• Increases steering into corners (off-power)
• If oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent,
especially it can lose forward traction (and steering)
during acceleration out of corners

Thicker
• Increases stability into corners during braking
• Increases steering on-power at corner exit

Rear

Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner

Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin

Most truggies run between 7k and 15k in front, and 1k and 10k in rear from what I've found (results may vary). I run 10k/30k/3k in my RC8Te, so I basically took roughly the same ratio and went up in thickness due to the weight of the vehicle, although I may reduce it to 15k/7k.

The tranny should be fine under 6S power; there are some benefits to going to a center diff, but it is also not a straight forward mod either [either you end up running really large spur and small pinion, or you need to do a gear reduction of some sort].

Jahay, I know about the Savage Suspension conversion kit; pricey and undoubtable decent, but try finding individual parts for it *if* something does break is nigh impossible (try it for yourself; go to amain, tower, stormer, horizon, etc. and see what you find... not the entire kit but just say a rear hub) so that makes it much less of a quality upgrade.

[Jahay]

Hmmm i never thought of getting parts for the conversion as a problem, as they are readily available here in the UK. Plus i think its going to be nearly impossible to break the front or rear hubs anyway from the testing i have done so far... I have broken the upper arms multiple times, but i found out that i could use the same parts from the adjustable a arms that HPI sell anyway...