Most Important Flux Upgrades?

I'm thinking about trying 50k in both diffs this time

[thzero]

Originally Posted by _dV

100K is not as bad as it sounds. For offroad bashing on very loose surfaces its fantastic. Some of the hill climbs i've manged to do i initially thought would be impossible. You just need to slow down a tad more than normal to turn

The majority of diff fluid discussions i see these days ppl are using 50K front and 30K rear. I've gone with 50K front and rear on my new build but yet to try it out offroad.

Interesting. Guess it depends on what you are doing.... and how you drive.

[Jahay]

i set up a thread just for diff oils to get a fixed answer... I put up a question up on each forum i am a member of, and never got a fixed answer...

Some like heavy oils and run 50/30 some like light oils 7/5 some like 20/10 or 20/30

But i never got a fixed answer...

[JThiessen]

That's because its impossible to have a single answer. Its a function of the surface, your tires, your personal preferences, and your powertrain set up. Most bashers don't really give a crap, and just make a half assed attempt at "setup". And unless you bash in the same spot every time, your diff tuning will vary. I'd bet 95% of us would come up with different answers given the same conditions and vehicles.

Originally Posted by JThiessen

Most bashers don't really give a crap, and just make a half assed attempt at "setup". .

Because were bashers, not racers.

[Bondonutz]

In my bashers I always used a heavier wt oil. When I rebuilt my XXL diffs last time I decided to go with 15K F&R rather than my normal 30K-F and 50K-R. I had them this week apart just to check after 2 dozen runs w/6s and the gears look great yet. I think with the heavier oils it was creating to much stress on the gear train, with the lighter oil a wheel will break loose much easier and reduces stress ??

With the torque 6S puts out on the strain on the drivetrain, yes, its logicall to assume that a thicker oil will put an even higher strain on components as it has to work against that extra viscosity and friction.

[danielc79]

i'm a basher and have the 5t conversion from tcs on mine. i used 30/30k at a suggestion of a fellow member and it seems to be doing fine. it seems to be harder to turn, but i'm also still using stock servo, so maybe its just weak with so much weight (7.5inch tires from cen nemesis too)

back to original thread question though, my first upgrade would be the radio if you don' thave 2.4 ghz, then probably the tvps. i still have the stock non bulletproof dif's in mine and even with the weight of the conversion and huge tires they are holding up just fine. when i filled my diffs about a month ago they aren't even showing signs of use.

i have broken 3 stock A arms 2 tops 1 bottom both on front, but that was some serious abuse. i'm not sure rpm could have held up to what i did, the stock arms seem very strong. but rpm a arms wouldn't be a bad investment, they are guaranteed for life after all.

[Bmr4life]

Originally Posted by _dV

For bashing i prefer to do the following to improve the stock Flux handling

1. Use 1/2 offset wheel or Savage XL extended axles
2. Do the tube shock mod and use a stiffer spring with heavier oil (white spring, 45-50 centistoke oil). Put an extra spacer in the rear shock, they need to be a little stiffer than the front
3. Use a lower profile tire than stock or mount a high profile tire on the inner bead of a larger wheel
4. Tape the tires
5. Use a heavy diff fluid in the front and rear diffs (30K-100K) instead of having just the grease.

Those 5 things make a huge difference to the stock flux handling without compromising ground clearance.

Other base stuff for a stock Flux

• Move the ESC forward on it's plate as far as possible (avoids shock damage)
• Do zip tie mod on front bumper arms to prevent them moving aside and letting the top hinge pin out
• Get some velcro ties to secure the battery boxes
• Get BP diffs if it didn't come with them
• The drive gear will start to wear badly after about 10 runs, get the HD replacement
• The pinion needs to be loctited, put some loctite on the shaft as well. it will look like it's hardly wearing for the first 15 or so runs then it will fall to pieces rapidly. Get a decent harded one like a Novak or RC Monster
• Get bearings for the steering rack. the HPI ones are stupidly $ just get cheap ones from ebay or somewhere
• Tighten steering servo saver spring further than advised(still leave room for servo saver to work) or get the HD spring
• Rear tie rod eliminators, better steering servo and 2.4Ghz are nice to have.

What is the shock tube mod?

[Muggydude]

Use the optional tube that comes with the kit above the big spring, and take away the little spring

[thzero]

This should mostly be a ride height adjustment. If you want to change the stiffness of the spring, go to a heavier one.

Put an extra spacer in the rear shock, they need to be a little stiffer than the front

Interesting. The point of the dual-spring system is it acts as a dual-rate spring system so that you can run a slightly softer spring in general, but on really big jolts to the system the heavier second spring absorbs some of the energy in a more controlled manner. By swapping out the heavier spring for the plastic collar you are effectively swapping the elasticity of the spring for the elasticity of the plastic.

Use the optional tube that comes with the kit above the big spring, and take away the little spring

[Bmr4life]

I bought my savage used and it came with nothing other than the truck and electronics. What do I need to buy to make the suspension work better?

[_dV]

The extra spacer doesn't fill a gap between the spring and the end of the shocks as the tube will have filled virtually all of that. It should actually precompress the spring a little adjusting both ride height and stiffness. There is a fairly big diff between the stock pink springs and the white springs so if you want a stiffness in between the spacers are the only way to get it.

The stock short spring actually seems to be slightly less stiff than the pink spring. You can see this if you hold them end to end and try to compress. So there is some small amount of dual rate happening. What i'm not keen on is the plastic collar that joins them. It rubs a lot on the shock body when things get dirty. What would be nice is a single dual rate spring not two separate springs. I used to run Raven dual rate springs when i had the LST shocks on and they were worked quite well.