My e-revo brushless edition build

[mistercrash]

I got my hands on some GorillaMaxx G3R chassis rails from Monster Mike. I wanted to get as many G3R parts as I could but these are the only things I could find. The reason being that I have been thinking of making my own G3R chassis. From studying the instructions, I figured there was two components that would be difficult to fabricate, the chassis rails and the front skid which has a couple bends in it. The rest looks to be made from flat stock, aluminum spacers and stand offs of the right length. So I would just need to figure out the dimensions of every components and make them. I think I can cut down on the number of parts to fabricate by cutting up a 3.3 nitro Revo chassis to use the front portion and part of the rear portion. I still don't know if the E-Revo tranny fits on the G3R chassis rails but I could figure it out. Since the tranny is more to the center of the chassis, I might be able to switch it around and have the motor in front. I am still scouring the internet to try to find other parts, especially that front skid but new parts are rare. A complete roller would be awesome but this seems to be even harder to find in good condition at a fair price. I'll update if I go ahead with this project.

[mistercrash]

I loved racing with Panther Pythons on Traxxas dish wheels with Racers Edge two stage foam inserts. The Pythons were worn so I unglued them with acetone to reuse the dish wheels and the inserts. I bought some Panther Plow boys thinking they had the same bead as the Pythons. They have a square bead that didn't fit the Traxxas dish wheels. I was disappointed so this is what I did to make them fit on the wheels. I just cut off the square bead.




I have 9 or 10 runs on these tires. They work pretty darn good. Good traction on a lot of surfaces and they don't seem to wear too fast.

If you do this, don't discard the square beads that were cut off, keep them they are good and thick elastics that you can use to hold the side of tires on the wheels to glue them.

Lastly, I cleaned my tires with water and dish soap before taping and gluing them. I tossed them in the dryer to dry them in a hurry. I found that Gorilla Tape sticks like crazy on hot tires with almost no wrinkles. When you tape your tires, heat them up first. Give it a try.

[Bondonutz]

If you mount them backwards I'd reckon they'd double as paddle tires for sand ??

I like them, might have to consider a set myself. Holes in the rims is a nice easy way to spruce up the rims also, nice job Ray.

[mistercrash]

You're right about flipping them to use as paddles. I haven't tried it but thought about it. I will try it for sure. Yeah holes in dish wheels dresses them up a bit but don't look at the holes in those wheels They are very badly done.

[Bondonutz]

Well, Your fired then for poor workmanship ?

[nitrostarter]

MC- I really like the Panther Plowboys as well! They were a huge seller back in the day with the beginning of brushless powered Emaxxes. The set I had was great, lots of traction and didn't wear out...

I've been thinking of trying a set again.

Hey MC, how do you use acetone to remove the glue? Just pour some in the bead and let it dissolve?

[rawfuls]

Originally Posted by Drivinfast247

Hey MC, how do you use acetone to remove the glue? Just pour some in the bead and let it dissolve?

I know you're not talking to me but...
I saw somebody use an entire pot of Acetone and just dumped wheel after wheel and said it did the job..
Not sure how Acetone is sold, probably not in buckets!

[Bondonutz]

The automotive paint supply store is the cheapest place to buy it buy the gallon

FYI, Try bakeing. It's free, takes about 30-45minutes, easy to moniter the progress, no mess, doesnt hurt the rubber or the rims (just smells, use stove exhaust fan)
The heat crystalizes the CA and once it cools just flakes right off.

Originally Posted by rawfuls

I know you're not talking to me but...
I saw somebody use an entire pot of Acetone and just dumped wheel after wheel and said it did the job..
Not sure how Acetone is sold, probably not in buckets!

Originally Posted by Bondonutz

The automotive paint supply store is the cheapest place to buy it buy the gallon

FYI, Try bakeing. It's free, takes about 30-45minutes, easy to moniter the progress, no mess, doesnt hurt the rubber or the rims (just smells, use stove exhaust fan)
The heat crystalizes the CA and once it cools just flakes right off.

Awesome. Thanks for the fast replies. And at what temp do I bake them at?

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by Drivinfast247

Awesome. Thanks for the fast replies. And at what temp do I bake them at?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nyunQ_Omh4

Originally Posted by Bondonutz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nyunQ_Omh4

HOLY CRAP!! Thanks!!

[StreetShaker]

The amount of info in this thread is unbelievable! Great Job Mr. Crash!

I saw you were asking about the mip axles well I have gone through a lot of axles thats for sure. I blew through the stocks in no time I got a set of traxxas axles and before I knew about buying the larger cups I could not keep them in my eRevo. So I got another set of axles off of flea bay from china made by bestRC they didn't even last through a full set of batts at 6s. So after spending way to much money on axles and not really getting any help I got the MIPs there are a very nice product but I don not think they did much fitment testing on the eRevo. They went together very easy and are a very strong product! The things I do not like about them is the fit on the spindles. Where the shaft goes into the bearing it the shoulder of the shaft doesn't even cover the whole bearing and considering the fact the the bearing isn't very wide I was a little unhappy. I was willing to over look that but when I put on the wheel adapters there was slop in the spindle that would let the shaft slide back and forth to much for me. I ended up shimming it to make them work and to tighten up the play in the front shaft. If you are interested I can take some photos of the issues I am talking about. The bad thing is that these axles set me back around 80 bucks and like you I don't mind paying the money for a well built product I just don't like spending that money on something I have to change to make it work. By the way thanks for all of this info!!! You have helped me so much and have done a ton of leg work that I wont have to do so I thank you.

[mistercrash]

Remember my little experiment in post #655? I spent a couple hours fitting LST XXL CVD shafts on my ERBE. There is still testing to be done, I will test on 6S with a couple of brand new Hyperion 45C/90C 500 mah lipos. The way I installed the shafts makes for a wider track, about ¾’’ wider so to get roughly the same track as before, I could use zero offset wheels. I only have ½’’ offsets so the truck is wiiiiiide.

Here is what I used.
- 4 Losi LST XXL CVD shafts (ebay)
- 4 15X21X4 bearings (Avid)
- 4 8X15X4 bearings (Avid)
- 1 set of RD Racing axles (Been running those since around 2004, same set)
- 1 set of Traxxas 17 mm hexes that have been bored to 8 mm with a 3 mm hole for the pin
2 Losi LST XXL diffs (I’ve been running LST diffs for a long time, details are in my thread)
- I used 2 RC Monster drive cups in the rear and 2 RCBest drive cups in the front, reason is, that’s what I had available. If the RCBest cups fail I will replace them with RC Monster cups.
I had a few 8X15X4 bearings from my LST that were gritty but I still kept them, I cut the outer race and used the inner race for shims behind the hexes.

Here’s the wide truck, either run it like that or use zero offset wheels or if you have the means to drill hardened steel then make a new hole in the right place to reposition the hexes close to the axle carriers.



Pic of the rear.



RC Monster drive cups in the rear



RCBest drive cups in the front



Here’s a close up of the shimming, two bearing inner race with two 0.3 mm shims on each wheel. I think the best way would be to make a new hole to bring the hexes close to the carriers. I will try it like that for now but I’m just worried of what this will do to the outer bearings.



A pic of what I did to pic up the slop of the inner 15X21X4 bearing in the RD Racing axle carrier. The perfect bearing would’ve had a 21”5 mm OD but I don’t think they exist so I put a piece of Gorilla tape around half of the bearing and it fits snug. Time will tell if the tape holds up. If not then I’ll use a shim made of thin metal like brass.



I'll probably find time to try it this weekend if it doesn't rain.