My New Build

[Chadworkz]

OMG, this is one of the best builds I have ever seen! Jason...you, my friend, have got some serious skills...and I mean that! I can't close my mouth I am so amazed! Amazing work, man, seriously...I love it!

[redshift]

Thanks Chad!

I need to kick myself in the ass and get it ready for the snow.....

[redshift]

I'd like some input on diff fluids, never tuned a diff!

For the rear I want very limited slip, and for the front I think I want just a bit less slip than the rear.

This will be for winter running, snow and the likes.

Suggestions?

[Chadworkz]

FOr standard 1/8 style diffs, I prefer 7k front, 1k rear, and 10k center (if there is a center). Try that, I think you will like it.

[redshift]

Ok, well center doesn't apply obviously, but the 7k front and 1k rear seems like the opposite of what I'm after.. and they both sound light-ish?

I was thinking like 7k front and 10k rear- I may be way off here, but I want the rear semi-spooled, the front stays in check if the rear is very limited slip. Not doubting your suggestions Chad, just want to be clear this is specifically for winter running, and I'm only wanting all 4 to work harder as opposed to a handling setup.

Do your recommendations remain?

[What's_nitro?]

I think you're still thinking too light... If you want a semi-locked rear I'd put in 100K. No, that isn't a typo. Then maybe 20-40K in front which should still give enough pull in the turns without affecting the steering response. Does that make sense?

I run 100K front and 300K rear (again, not a typo) on my GTP. It never "diffs out" in a corner even if I stay on power, and has no oversteer, like it would if the front was too tight.

[Chadworkz]

Well, when the rear diff is tighter than the front, it affects handling in many ways, especially on loose terrain and definitely on the road...it makes the rear end want to swap places with the front (spin out). But, this is only a problem at higher speeds, and you have mentioned you like to crawl and climb and will be driving in snow, so you might want to run the samw weight in both diffs. The heavy front and light rear is more for the racer and handling, which is NOT what you want or need.

[Chadworkz]

What's; 100k in a true 8th scale diff will lock it up tight, which is good if that's what the person wants, but I think triple-digit and high two-digit oils should only be used in the smaller, Traxxas/10th scale gears.

[What's_nitro?]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

What's; 100k in a true 8th scale diff will lock it up tight, which is good if that's what the person wants, but I think triple-digit and high two-digit oils should only be used in the smaller, Traxxas/10th scale gears.

Is a GTP not a true 8th scale? It has a 4 spider diff...

[redshift]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

Well, when the rear diff is tighter than the front, it affects handling in many ways, especially on loose terrain and definitely on the road...it makes the rear end want to swap places with the front (spin out). But, this is only a problem at higher speeds, and you have mentioned you like to crawl and climb and will be driving in snow, so you might want to run the samw weight in both diffs. The heavy front and light rear is more for the racer and handling, which is NOT what you want or need.

They did look like racing #s to me, but great info come spring, thanks.

[redshift]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

What's; 100k in a true 8th scale diff will lock it up tight, which is good if that's what the person wants, but I think triple-digit and high two-digit oils should only be used in the smaller, Traxxas/10th scale gears.

I follow that, the 1/10 will have higher loading, and require more resistance.

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

Is a GTP not a true 8th scale? It has a 4 spider diff...

Yes, I am just saying I don't think that is what he needs.

[redshift]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

I think you're still thinking too light... If you want a semi-locked rear I'd put in 100K. No, that isn't a typo. Then maybe 20-40K in front which should still give enough pull in the turns without affecting the steering response. Does that make sense?

I run 100K front and 300K rear (again, not a typo) on my GTP. It never "diffs out" in a corner even if I stay on power, and has no oversteer, like it would if the front was too tight.

Yes, I wondered about the trip-digit stuff. 500k would be a really stiff paste, correct?

And I do understand too thick in the front will result in very vague steering.

Thing is I was hoping to throw some on a Tower order and from what I see their selection sucks @ss... where to get?

[What's_nitro?]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

Yes, I am just saying I don't think that is what he needs.

Well, with the lighter oils, your inside wheel is always going to spin on ice/snow/muddy ground. There is not enough traction compared to dirt/asphault. Hence the need for heavier-than-normal fluids to limit the diff action. Especially with the larger tires and the power available from the large motor, I think a MT would benefit from the heavier fluids for winter driving.

[What's_nitro?]

Yeah 500K is VERY thick. The 300K barely wants to flow out of the container, and 100K is similar to cold honey.