Muggy to 5BE Build - Page 4 - RC-Monster Forums

zueslilbuddy · 04.02.2011, 01:26 PM

Well there will be an update tonight after all.

My aluminum diff cases showed today, I have them here at work with me lol

I just put a nice shiney coat of red paint on them and will be installing them tonight after I eat supper.

I guess the roll bar set will be here monday, oh well the diffs will take me a little time anyway.

I'll be taking them apart, inspecting them, and changing the diff oil in them while I have them out of the cases.

zueslilbuddy · 04.02.2011, 10:14 PM

Well on to the update.

Got my aluminum diff cases today and got them painted up earlier today.

Old diff case off and it still looks good from this summers rebuild, the insides looked great and not even any discoloration of the diff fluid, it still was crystal clear in both diffs.
Actually I totally rebuilt them and only ran the truck 4-6 times after that.

All ready to go back together.

Back in place.

Wait, What Have I Done lol

Had to go with the LST-2 shock tower up front also, it makes the chassis sit nice and level.

Next update most likely will be monday evening if my roll cage comes in.

v8hatch · 04.02.2011, 10:56 PM

WOW your going with a bit of bling i see, looks good.

Was it sitting a bit high up the front? if so you could put some "O" rings on the shock shaft on the inside to shorten it a bit, that's what i did.

v8hatch · 04.02.2011, 10:58 PM

The other thing i noticed is you don't have the muggy block that sits in the bottom a-arm that sits the shock out fourther towards the wheel.

zueslilbuddy · 04.02.2011, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v8hatch

WOW your going with a bit of bling i see, looks good.

Was it sitting a bit high up the front? if so you could put some "O" rings on the shock shaft on the inside to shorten it a bit, that's what i did.

Na it was sitting with rear just a bit higher before bit i wanted to use the Shocks and arms I had on my XXLST-2, they were causing a problem with the muggy shock tower

Quote:

Originally Posted by v8hatch

The other thing i noticed is you don't have the muggy block that sits in the bottom a-arm that sits the shock out fourther towards the wheel.

Well it did have them before the aluminum arms and LST-2 shocks, My XXLST is going to get Muggafied with the parts I took off of the project and the blocks will be used on it.
My XXLST-2 is my speed demon monster truck lol

v8hatch · 04.03.2011, 01:15 AM

No worries mate, it's good to see those little things that makes it different hey, that's what it's all about making it your own.

JERRY2KONE · **plastic -** 04.03.2011, 04:04 AM

You still have a weak point in those diffs with the plastic diff cups. I would have just changed them with an aluminum diff cup while it was apart. There is still too much chance of flex once you put those diffs under power with that motor and those gears are going to eat themselves at some point and may damage your new diff cases along with them. Sorry just had to point that out. Why only go half way with the upgrade?

v8hatch · 04.03.2011, 04:34 AM

That's a good point, i haven't changed mine yet but so far so good.

JERRY2KONE · 06:09 AM

Kind of like replacing your break calipers with the best on teh market, but still using cheap pads. Whats the point.

The second part of the equasion is that removing and taking apart diffs is one of the most tedious labor instensive jobs on our trucks. Make them right and you will not have to bother with them again, right?

Just my 2 cents. I do believe in overkill, but not just on the power side of the coin. I like making things indestructable from the start and not having to rework things a second time.

brian015 · 04.03.2011, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

You still have a weak point in those diffs with the plastic diff cups. I would have just changed them with an aluminum diff cup while it was apart. There is still too much chance of flex once you put those diffs under power with that motor and those gears are going to eat themselves at some point and may damage your new diff cases along with them. Sorry just had to point that out. Why only go half way with the upgrade?

I've actually had great success with the Losi HD plastic diff cups (the ones with the metal inserts) inside my aluminum cases - and that's with a 1527 running on 8s and 10s.

zueslilbuddy · 04.03.2011, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

Kind of like replacing your break calipers with the best on teh market, but still using cheap pads. Whats the point.

The second part of the equasion is that removing and taking apart diffs is one of the most tedious labor instensive jobs on our trucks. Make them right and you will not have to bother with them again, right?

Just my 2 cents. I do believe in overkill, but not just on the power side of the coin. I like making things indestructable from the start and not having to rework things a second time.

In time my good man in time, its kind of a budget build, well kind of lol

I did have the diffs completely apart, they still looked new inside from this summers rebuild with all new parts and oil.

It'll go till it blows

zueslilbuddy · 04.04.2011, 08:43 PM

Ok well the cage did come so I got to work, still not done but got front and rear tied in, still need to tie in the center roll bar.

Set it in place to have a first look.

Front mount in place.

Ended up using the old wing mount for rear cage mount. Temp until I get 5b rear bumper.

really starting to take shape.

I'll get more done soon, wing should be here tomorrow.

ZippyBasher · 09:10 PM

Nice Ride there zues. I like the Body/Cage. I am digging all the stretch projects around here. I did one but based on a Rustler so only 2wd.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

You still have a weak point in those diffs with the plastic diff cups. I would have just changed them with an aluminum diff cup while it was apart. There is still too much chance of flex once you put those diffs under power with that motor and those gears are going to eat themselves at some point and may damage your new diff cases along with them. Sorry just had to point that out. Why only go half way with the upgrade?

I have been there and done that with the LST2 cups. IMHO, The HD Plastic cups are better than an Aluminum cup. You can see my thread how I just have gone through a set of Al cups in 1 run in my 13lb Maxx. Reason being is the HD cups have metal inserts and spread the bevel pin load over a greater area. The metal cups are machined after the old Non HD cups. The pin eats into the sidewall of the cup and then it toasts the bevel gears... What we need is a machined version of the HD cup with the metal inserts. Then we would be bulletproof as the Ring and Pinions are tough as hell. Mine look brand new with over a years use.

EDIT this is pasted from my Thread:

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZippyBasher

I thought the same thing about the Aluminum Nova Cups Being bulletproof. The rear cup is useless after 1 pack and I just took the CD cup out to refill with a lighter fluid and give it a thorough inspection and it actually is starting to wear pin slots in the side of the cup as well...(at least a dozen runs or so) I can try to get a picture but Its not that cool

Well there goes $40.

I will just go back to the Losi XXL HD plastic cup. I looked at the one I was using for over a year in the rear diff and it looks new...

the ring and pinion also look brand new.

I guess those little metal inserts in the XXL really save the cup. I think a CNC cup designed after the XXL cup would be bulletproof, but not cheap to get CNC'd...

v8hatch · 04.04.2011, 10:33 PM

Mate i'm lovin it, it's looking good. Did you mount the center of the roll cage?

zueslilbuddy · 04.05.2011, 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v8hatch

Mate i'm lovin it, it's looking good. Did you mount the center of the roll cage?

Ran out of time for tinkering last night, so didn't get quite that far.
I'll be putting more time in it tonight after work.
I try to get an hour or so a night in the ''Man Cave'' if possible, its my me time