Emaxx-Revo-Losi 1/5 AWD On-Road racer

[reno911]

Originally Posted by SpeedAssault

Originally I used Sport works Auto cross tires, they did ok on 3s but it still burned out.
I'm now using FG wheels, machined hub to decrease the wheel offset.



In all my searching for a GTP or cool like body I have only found one
954 Mercedes -->http://www.bigboystoysandhobbies.com/bodies
and there's no way I would spend $175. on a plastic body.
I dont understand why they are not more widely used, espeacially now that they have semi truck race bodies


I have been researching to find a material to carve and form to but no luck yet.
Material looking at:
Polystyrene
polyurethane
blue foam
wood

Getting VERY ANXIOUS for a Sweet RACE BODY and went to town with foam and tape, just a rush job but damm I think it's going to look Badas$

WHat ya Think ?

Bad ass thread!

If you want to make a custom body you could probably hand lay a fiberglass one of carbon fiber using this method. Tape up the curves and shape like here. Cover in a microfiber. Soak in resin to get to shape. Then lay down your material and resin to reinforce. I have done similar in making a custom sub woofer box for automotive.

[SpeedAssault]

Originally Posted by DUGAN661

hell yea... can a give better step by step on how u fit the 1/5 wheels on there?

im in the process of doing almost the same thing u have =)

I used stock revo outputs, made a square drive with the corners angled at 45* drilled a hole for the pin to go through it and the axle. I then used Losi wheel extenders and used my drill press as a lathe and trimmed down the small extr shoulder on them to fit inside the FG wheels.
I will post a picture of them.
The HPI Tarmack busters are Awesome for grip, way better than these FG's and the tarmack busters are only $30. for two tires.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

You could try to install LST XXL shafts on there. They might not be the exact length you need but you could modify them like you did for your center shafts. You probably would be able to reinstall the original output cups in your diffs. You're pretty good with that drill press so the axle carriers have to be modified just by enlarging the hole for the outer bearing to just under 16 mm. Then you can press a 8X16 bearing in there. The inner bearing is 15X21 and you can press that in the carrier with a 5/8'' socket wrench and a vise. It slips right in.

I'm not sure about your wheels, I went back to try to make sense of how they are secured on but I can't figure it out. I don't know if the wheels use a hex drive and how big it is. I think I read something about them having a square drive?

Hey Thank you. I think I started to look into that, but it became a money issue and I learned that Titanium has no business in drivetrain, they are junk. my steel ones hold up fairly well, unless there is a collision.

Originally Posted by mac3194

Can you tell me what you made your chassis with and how exactly you made because im doing something similar in my machine shop class except using 1/8th scale buggy parts.

thanks

I used 3mm aluminum but you should use like 5mm or more. My chassis has to much of torsional twist and flex.

Originally Posted by mac3194

found em'!! lol, to bad there out of my price range :(

Buy HPI Tarmack busters instead.

Originally Posted by reno911

Bad ass thread!

If you want to make a custom body you could probably hand lay a fiberglass one of carbon fiber using this method. Tape up the curves and shape like here. Cover in a microfiber. Soak in resin to get to shape. Then lay down your material and resin to reinforce. I have done similar in making a custom sub woofer box for automotive.

Thank you for the tip. But I am going to use a block of foam and shape it and then vacuum form polycarbonate over it.

[littleazn248]

You've made some really good progress! So have you managed to find a body yet? Just curious but hows the 1515? Does it give enough umph? I also have one suggestion you should add some disc brakes on the front wheels. It's easy to find em for a 1/5 scale.

[mohanjude]

Originally Posted by SpeedAssault

Well I finally built my new Transmitter conversion

Now I can drive all my rides with ease, no more glitches or car running away

CH 1 Throttle
Ch 2 Front steering
Ch 3 Rear steering
Ch 4 Either a 2nd Trigger for Crawler or a 3 way switch for 4wd-2wd-DIG or momentary buttons for front or rear dig for my Berg crawler.
Ch5 turn on lights for crawler
CH 6
Mix: 4 wheel steer ( tight left or right turn)
2mix: 4 wheel crab walk for my dual steering crawler

Wow - Where did you get that Tx Case? I am still trying to get my head around how it all fits...

[SpeedAssault]

Originally Posted by mohanjude

Wow - Where did you get that Tx Case? I am still trying to get my head around how it all fits...

The transmitter is a KO Propo MX1 I got off ebay for $40.

Here is my build thread http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239097

[SpeedAssault]

Back from life crisis

1. New 1/5 Audi R10 Le Mans Race Body
2. New Upper chassis rails
3. New 6s 4000 Lipo battery
4. Re worked Losi Shocks and springs
5. Relocated Shock position.
6. Chassis i snow Equally Balanced Front to rear and Left to Right.
7. Now running Custom Spektrum DX6i DSM Transmitter.

In Progress:
1. Narrowing Wheel Track by 1inch to Fit 15inch wide Le Mans body.
2.Working on Machining new Suspension support from block 6061 t6 Aluminum as after the collision the Delrin Suspension block cracked.
3. Hopes of installing Sliperential.

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Rebuilt, and added Functions Spektrum DX6i Transmitter
Drives Dual ESC Rock Crawler, 1/10 Scaler crawler with Winch, 1/8 Custom Rock Buggy with Dig and Dual steering, Shortcourse truck and 1/5 on Road with a Brake button.
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[nitrostarter]

Nice job!! Glad to see an old build revived!!

[SpeedAssault]

Finally owner of a Rc Monster Slipperential

Spent maybe an hour with assembly, but need diff oil.

So what is the math behind figuring out what Weight oil to go with?

I have on hand: 2k, 5k, 7k, 10k, 30k.

[SpeedAssault]

Oil
7k front
10k Center
5k Rear

Thank You RuuDxD

Even Castle did not know Power of 2200

Based on 120Amps:
2.84 ftlbs of Torque
Axle Torque 3.81
2.8 to 3.5HP
6S 25volts
Tire 4.8
Spur/Pinio Ratio 2.41:1
46Spur 19P
Theoretical Speed 78MPH
Calculated Motor Power 3024 watts (4.1HP)

At Under 11.5 lbs this would explain why the car from dead stop it Jumps straight up in the Air when Pull full throttle.

Trimmed down power, ran good.
car sat for couple yrs
Problem Now, throttle Stutters in begining, , give it a push and drives fine above 8mph. ??

[ruudxd]

No need to thank me, I just copied and pasted a link, thank BrianG, the maker of that site!

I could be wrong, but that could just be the sensorless motor trying to find the right coil.
It is called cogging, it looks somewhat like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7MEWyW5yF0

He does run very little throttle in the video, so it is worse then when you accelerate faster.
It does get worse with heavy gearing if I am correct, so that might be something to?
If you run a lot on low speeds, or want a smoother power band, you might want to consider the new Sensored Castle Combo's?

I am not that knowledged in RC though, I am trying my best, so you might want to have this second checked :)

[lincpimp]

Sounds like the capacitors on the speed control may have crapped out... You may need to add a cap bank to the main leads, or possibly replace the caps. Heat and time are enemies to capacitors.