My Brushless Revo Bolt on conversion kit

Hey Brian thanks for the comments!

In answer to your questions...


- Tranny locking. I don't really know what you mean by using piano wire, but the way I locked mine seems to be quite effective: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...3&postcount=23. I know you might have seen this already since you posted a reply in that thread.

I just bent a piece of piano wire, put it in the shift input hole (where the shift shaft sticks out of the transmission) and then bolted it to the transmission case so that the shaft wouldn't slide, this keeps it from sliding in and out of reverse/forward. Very simple really.


- Mod1 Gears. As pointed out before, Mike offers Mod1 pitch pinions and traxxas offers stock 36, 38, and 40T spurs which are Mod1 as well. Due to the fact that the 1mm pitch is a bit stronger than other pitches, I would think that you would go with that simply for durability. This would negate the need for the milled adaptor that goes on the slipper assemby. Plus, the stock Revo spur seems to be wider which would help distribute the force across more tooth surface area.

I can tell you from experience that strength of the gear between a mod1 vs a 32 pitch gear is negligible. The milled adapter serves one primary purpose, to allow the gear to be mounted FLAT to prevent the plastic from buckling and providing an uneven fit. It really reinforces the plastic center of the gear, not the teeth. I have worked with a number of different gearing systems in the heli's i have been designing (mostly 1500 watts and up) and can tell you with confidence, if the fit isn't right, the mod1s will strip just as quickly as the 32 pitch teeth, They are pretty close in size and relative strength.

A wider gear however is stronger for the reason you stated above, that part I agree with, what I found was that in practicality, if you set the gear mesh right and have the motor mount rigid, and have the gear mounted firmly, it makes very little to no difference at all between them. Also, the gear I am using is a 52 tooth gear, I went down the traxxas spur gear line of thinking but they didn't have a mod1 gear big enough for the gear ratio I was shooting for assuming that the 2nd gear stock ratio was the prefered starting point. The 2nd gear ratio starting point was preferred because it made things easy to lock up within the transmission, (the hub was easier to machine for that particular fit).
Basically this is a case of one thing affecting a lot of other things, but either method seems to work pretty well. Good points.

- Battery placement. I like your overall design, but I was planning to make trays that would fit underneath the truck. That would really lower the CG and allow you to equally balance the truck. However, this would reduce the clearance by about 3/4" over stock, but frees up a lot of space on top of the chassis to install the ESC (even is a box to protect it better). The reduced ground clearance might make it better suited for racing primarily.

This is one of those things that everyone seems to like something different. What i like about your setup is that it is sleek, the only thing I hate about mine is the girth of the vehicle now. YOu have a nice clean look to the sides and top of your setup. Problem I had is that I wanted to keep the ground clearance as high as possible without changing the vert cg too much, as stated before I am a basher, not a racer. For racing I really like your setup better, I guess it would be pretty easy to offer an either or type setup to make everyone happy, no?

My motor mount does not slide forward, but I could easily just redesign the lower motor mount block to add another .5 inch of spacing, it is quite simple to do, CNC makes machining changes so easy it is sick!

I am intrigued enough by the idea of doing machined delrin tubs that I am ordering some 3 and 4 inch thick black acetal copolymer (prestressed delrin) stock to try some prototypes in the next week or two. I wish I was home during the week to do more of this stuff!