General electrical questions

[lincpimp]

I have a couple of questions...

1st, what kind of solder do the members here use? I alsways used 60/40 up until recently when I lost my last roll and found some really thin silver bearing solder. I think this works alot better than the 60/40, coupled with the flux described below it makes very short work of even thick wires and big bullets.

2nd, what kind/brand of flux? I was using radioshak brand "non spill paste" rosin soldering flux. But I had to solder some stuff at the house and forgot to bring it. Dug around and found some flux I had used to do copper pipe soldering (water pipe). alpha fry brand, comes in a small round tin with a brush. This stuff works ALOT better than the radio shak stuff. Huge difference. Makes my 40watt iron work as well as the big 80 watt when it comes to doing bullets, deans and thick wire. Just seems to flow the solder better, maybe by virtue of cleaning the wires better?

3rd, how would I clean the warious power plugs, bullets, etc. I have some dirty deans, and a few bullets too. I can vaguely remember someone suggesting q-tips and some sort of liquid, maybe alcohol? I am guessing I could use electric contact cleaner in the spray can, but would prefer a non aerosol as I do not want it in the air where I work (closed a/c-ed area!).

Also thinking a cleaning sticky would be cool, let members throw in their tips and tricks. Maybe have a mod make up a form style layout and organize it so it reads well? Jsut an idea.

Thanks for the help guys, hope everyone is doing well!

[suicideneil]

I use lead free solder with a rosin core, not sure on the exact composition but I find it works extremely well for me. Silver-bearing solder is meant to be the mutts-nuts but it was kinda pricey so I went with the cheaper option at the time.

I don't use extra flux anymore, haven't found any need to.

A little rubbing alcohol might work yeah to lift off the carbon, or maybe some comm drops designed for cleaning up brushed motor commutators, though some brass polish might work well afterwards to really polish the connectors. If they are heavily sooted then it might be worth braking out the wire brush attachment for your dremel, then polishing them.

[Brow]

I still use 60/40 solder without any extra flux but have used lead free and silver solder in the past at work and they work well too. I have used extra flux in the past at work, particularly on older connections and wire which helps. I do not remember what brands were used.

Cleaning connectors - try alcohol and q-tip, if it needs more use a toothbrush and alcohol. Isopropol alcohol is good and it does not have other crap in it to cause any harm to connectors or wire. It will evaporate off to leave no residue. I do pour some over the cleaned parts after brushing to remove any impurities.
Contact cleaners also work but as you said aerosols not desired in your workshop and you still may need to brush.

[brainanator]

Linc, make sure you aren't using acid flux....that's not good for electrical connections, and if you used it for pipes before, it probably is acid.

I use 60/40 rosin core solder. Decently thick so it has a good amount of flux in it. Works well for everything I use it on with my 45W iron from Sears. Even the 8AWG wires soldered to traxxas plugs.

[TexasSP]

I use lead free silver solder from the local electronics store. I don't remember the percentages though. It is rosin core as well. It has always worked well for me coupled with my Hakko Soldering station. I don't use flux at all, never needed it.

[brainanator]

^ you do use flux, since that is was the rosin core is ;)
You don't use any additional flux

[TexasSP]

Originally Posted by brainanator

^ you do use flux, since that is was the rosin core is ;)
You don't use any additional flux

I am quite aware of that.

[J57ltr]

I use a 60/40 Multicore with water soluble flux that way I can wash it off with water and make the joint clean. Kester also makes a water soluble flux solder as well. The key is a hot iron, especially on something large. I also use a Metcal soldering station, don't remember the wattage (it's about the size of a 30W iron), but I can do 10 gauge easily and I can solder together a roll of pennies with it so it does the job.

When I am at home I use the same solder, but if I have to to large wire I use a 250W gun or my portasol for smaller items.

Using a flux pen works wonders when doing large gauge wire, I also use one that is water soluble. I'll have to check the brand.

Jeff

[simplechamp]

I thought I read somewhere that 63/37 solder is slightly better than 60/40, something to do with the melting point and it being more uniform in the 63/37. But I have never really looked into that to see if it has any merit, I still always use 60/40 with good results.

The only time I use additional flux is a tiny dab when tinning heavier gauge (8-10AWG) wire. Seems like it helps the solder to wick into all the strands easier and more evenly. Not sure if it's just me, but without the flux sometimes the wire seems to be a bit stubborn in absorbing the solder, the flux mainly helps to get it started.

[J57ltr]

And that is exactly what flux is for. Cleaning and allowing a better flow of the solder onto the part. 63/37 goes through the eutectic stage faster, (it doesn't stay plastic for as long) so when your hands are burning and you let off the iron it will harden faster. It does very well with wire soldering.

Jeff

[Shonen]

1. 1mm 60/40 rosin core leaded solder for me. I don't believe in RoHS when it comes to electronics

2. I don't use any external flux.

3. If there's something to clean, sandpaper and/or metal file. I don't bother with solvents at all unless I'm reflowing.

I do my soldering with my 45W iron, or for the larger gauge stuff I may use my hot air gun.

[JERRY2KONE]

Now you guys have me curious as to which solder and flux I am using. I am at work right now and do not have access to that information. I do know that it is a very thin solder used for electronics, and the paste is one that comes in a small round tin with green & white labling, and the paste itself looks like a soft caramel colored grease. Now I will have to look into this when I get home and update my report. All in all it works great. I tried a white paste recommended when I was in Brussels, but it worked like Poo so I reverted back to this one. As stated above using a nice Hakko unit makes soldering easy and pleasurable. I like the older units that you received the flame stickers with. I guess they changed all of that now and the newer units look so generic to me.

As for cleaning your electrical connections James just step outside and use the contact cleaner or even brake cleaner on them. Just make sure you wear good eye protection when you do.