Hot bodies 1/8 diffs

[suicideneil]

You're uploading the pictures to the rc-monster server and they are displaying as attachments; what you need to be doing is just copy & paste the [ IMG ] tags that photobucket gives you as links underneath each picture when you are viewing your pictures on photobucket itself..

[cmac]

Great thanks as usual.

I think its the bottom of the 4 selections that you have the choice of copying the link in Photobucket that you paste here in the forums. If one don't post the way you want try to come back and edit the message and try another one right away.

[cmac]

Thanks I got it.

[cmac]

Does anyone know of discount codes for RC superstore? or even tower hobbies?

[cmac]

Well now that the ESC plate is complete, and I have all the parts that I want to anodize together, I sent those as well as the chassis to be anodized ( the chassis re-anodized). I hope this will be the last trip to that shop for awhile. I should have the parts back tomorrow. I sent them off on Monday back on Thursday, not a bad deal. I also got word from Mike that my hinge pins have already shipped. So I hope that I will get all the parts by Friday, and I can begin final assembly!!!!!! I have also have ordered the Castle fan for my 1515y motor. Do you think this motor will be enough for this set up? If not what should I get. I am set on 6s since I already have the batteries.

[Overdriven]

Love the build so far, can't wait to see it come together.

Bigger is always better when it comes to motors. But the 1515 1y is a versatile motor, try it out and see if it suits your needs. It'll depend alot on your gearing, how fast you want to go and driving style. The longer cc 1518 and 1520 with their lower Kv and higher torque are more suited to 6s use and heavier trucks compared to the 1515 though. But you may have trouble fitting a longer motor in your setup without hitting the esc though. Have you run any numbers in any gear calcs?

Edit: I just ran some numbers based on your buggy ratio diffs, 46t spur, 2200kv and 6s. With 5.8 inch diameter tires and 8t pinion you'll be at 45mph without tire ballooning. Personally, I'd run a larger spur and possibly a lower kv motor to open up some gearing options, especially if you want to run larger tires. Pinions that small tend to wear quicker too. Can't hurt to try out what you have on hand either though.

[cmac]

Thanks for the info and the complement Overdrive. I have 10 through 16 tooth pinion gears on hand from Mike so I will try them and check temps. Is the 1518 a 4 pole motor? I've heard that 4 pole motor will hold up better. I'm not sure I want to go to a longer motor though, because I've put a lot of effort into this to get everything lined up perfectly and I'm so close to getting this thing done that I don't want to have to re-do a mounting plate. My neighbor Kyle probably wants his drill press back by now I keep telling him I'm almost done and he says it's no problem, but I don't want to take advantage of his generosity.

[Overdriven]

The 1518 and 1520 I mentioned are Castle motors, and yes they are 4 pole. They are both discontinued by Castle, but the specs are still up on their site and you can find the motors in Mike's store still. 4 pole motors generally have more torque than similar size 2 pole motors and are more efficient, so yes they generally run cooler and hold up better.

Try the 10t pinion with the smallest set of tires you have first and go from there. If it runs to hot or is too fast for your needs then you'll have to make some descisions. Smaller pinion and or larger spur, bigger motor or just one with a lower Kv, etc.

[cmac]

"Too fast"......is there such a thing?

[suicideneil]

Depends, you can gear too high for any given voltage, so trying to go too fast without enough power is certainly possible. The is also the issue of aero dynamics & the tyres flying apart if you are trying for really high speeds even with enough voltage/ power behind the truck- upwards of 40-60mph tyres start to balloon like crazy and the front end of the truck wants to lift up and flip the truck, so it can take a lot of work to make a high speed truck drivable..

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Depends, you can gear too high for any given voltage, so trying to go too fast without enough power is certainly possible. The is also the issue of aero dynamics & the tyres flying apart if you are trying for really high speeds even with enough voltage/ power behind the truck- upwards of 40-60mph tyres start to balloon like crazy and the front end of the truck wants to lift up and flip the truck, so it can take a lot of work to make a high speed truck drivable..

Put wings on it and go for broke. This will solve the problem of the front end lifting off the ground.

[cmac]

OK. I have the hinge pins in when I went to assemble them the Upper (longer) pin sits flush with the arm edges. I can't use the included clips to hold the pin in place. Correct me if I'm wrong but the ends of the pin should stick out far enough to use the c-clips. Did I order the wrong hinge pins? Remember I'm using UE supermaxx A-Arms. By the way I finally ordered the radio that is going to keep this under control.....http://www.rcsuperstore.com/Futaba_4...p/futk4901.htm It should be here on Tuesday or Wednesday.

[suicideneil]

Which ( brand of ) hingepins did you go with? There do seem to be two different versions for the maxx trucks on a few websites- apparently one version does have slightly longer pins for either the front or rear ( or both ) upper a-arms. You could always cheat though if you dont want to order more pins; drill a little hole in either the bulkhead or a-arm, then put a little setscrew / grubscrew in there which will hold the hingepin in place without the need for e-clips:

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4404874

Great detailed pics from a fellow RC-M member.

[cmac]

Neil I bought the fast lane hinge pins. I really don't want to have to drill the arms or the bulks. what are my options?