Hot bodies 1/8 diffs - Page 13 - RC-Monster Forums

cmac · 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac

Has anyone used one of these before?
http://cgi.ebay.com/US-RETAILER-Leop...item3f03c94b5c
what do you think? I like the fact that it is 4 pole.

Guys I need feedback I'm so close to pulling the trigger on this motor. I found out the can is 74mm long. The KV rating is almost the same as my current 1515, but it is 4 pole. The price is perfect. Let me know.

suicideneil · 10:12 PM

Based on the review that Jang @ URC did a little while back, the Leopard ( and Tacon ) motor has similar power to the castle 2200kv motor, similar temps, but a bit less torque in the mid-range. If you are just bashing and not hammering it like a loony, then it should be fine I imagine, no great loss if it isn't given the price. I would favour a slightly larger motor though myself given how heavy your truck will end up:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Leopard-4082-bru...item2566599dfb 4082 2200kv $110

http://cgi.ebay.com/Leopard-4282-200...item3a685f55cc 4282 2000kv $110

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Leopard-LB-4...item3cba982956 4274 2000kv $90

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sale-RC-Leopard-...item415bf568ed 4274 2000kv $84

just type in 'leopard motor' and search though them all ( price high to low )- there are loads of places selling the same and similar Leopards, larger too, for the same or less money. They will all be covered by paypal so no worries about getting screwed over.

Also, what cell count / voltage are you planning on running? It might pay to go for a lower kv motor, like 1600-1800kv for 5-6s lipo, unless you plan on doing speed runs or lots of high speed on-road driving..

cmac · 12:30 AM

Thanks for talking me down. I guess I will see how the truck drives with the 1515 for now. If the temps are OK then I will stick with that motor. I might get the 4074 for my original E-maxx just to see what it's like. then I can have two working trucks. Any suggestions for an ESC to go with the Leopard motor? To answer your question about the types of batteries I will use. I'm going with 6s/22.2.v lipos (2x's3s/11.1v). I would like to drive this in all kinds of terrain. Bashing, on road speed runs. I basically want it to do a little bit of everything.

suicideneil · 08.16.2011, 10:29 AM

If you've already got the 1515 then thats pretty much the ideal one to use, I wouldn't swap it out for a lesser quality copy essentially. Should be plenty of power on 6s, just vary the gearing a bit for offroad & speedruns etc.

cmac · 08.16.2011, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil

If you've already got the 1515 then thats pretty much the ideal one to use, I wouldn't swap it out for a lesser quality copy essentially. Should be plenty of power on 6s, just vary the gearing a bit for offroad & speedruns etc.

I was just worried with the 1515 being a two pole motor. I read elswhere in the forum that the 1515 might not hold up as well as a 4 pole motor.

brian015 · 08.16.2011, 11:40 AM

1515 is 4 pole.

cmac · 08.16.2011, 01:18 PM

Thanks Brian, for clearing that up. I could not find out if it was 2 or 4 pole on the web site. One of the threads on this sight made it seem that it was a 2 pole. Well that makes me feel better.

cmac · 08.17.2011, 06:50 PM

Great news the UE hinge pins were the right size. I think I read somewhere that the standard hinge pins for the E/T-maxx are 3mm shorter than the UE pins. Good news is that I got a bunch of them so I won't run out for a while. Now I have a question about diff oil. I have been told a bunch of conflicting things. First off this is not a racing truck. I was set to have 7,000 wt in the front; 10,000 in the center diff; and 5,000 in the rear. Is this OK? I want this thing to do wheelies at will. I think I read somewhere that I might need 20,000 wt. in the center slipper if I want it to do wheelies. What do you guys think?

suicideneil · 08.18.2011, 01:23 PM

7K / 5K sounds fine, I run the same, not sure about the center really- it will need to be fairly heavy to stop the power just being sent to the front wheels when you nail the throttle- might pay to get something much thicker just in case- you can always mix the oils to make something lighter..

cmac · 08.18.2011, 03:40 PM

So do you think 20,000 wt is a good place to start?

cmac · 08.19.2011, 12:45 AM

Well, I just got the radio that's going to keep this truck in control. I Just got a Futaba 4PKS and it is just awesome!!!!!! I cannot begin to tell you what a nice radio this is. I just sold my last radio the Futaba 4PL, and that was a great radio, but the 4PKS just takes the level of quality up several notches it just feels solid. You can tell right when you pick it up. The way the trigger feels, the tension of wheel it's just a great radio. One other thing in addition to the center diff oil question above, what weight shock oil do you guys think I should use? I know this truck is going to be heavy. I am using the new Proline powerstroke shocks (8 of them). They were great in my original Emaxx and, I have 40 wt in there now. Do you think I need to go to a heavier wt?

cmac · 12:41 PM

OK. I just read another thread and some of the guys are running 100k, 300k, and even 500k diff oil in their slipper. They were trying to have it do wheelies at will also. I just bought 20k oil and I don't think i will use that. I bought 100k and 300k diff oil from A-Main, and I think I will start with the 300k and go from there. I also got a few opinions from one of my local hobby shops and (going back to one of the first few pages in this thread) I felt front diff gear mesh was not smooth enough, so I have a few pinions coming and hopefully one of them will be smoother. I have tried to shim it side to side and front to back and can't get it better. One other thing that the owner of the shop pointed out was that the hybrid bulks are not perfectly sealed. the seam down the middle has small "gaps" or "holes". First thought on that is to sand them flat on the bench grinder. Or do you think I could just seal them with clear silicone? they really are very small. I'm afraid that I might not get them perfectly flat and ruin them. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

Overdriven · 08.21.2011, 10:14 PM

I've never had an issue with anything getting inside my FLM bulks. I've run through water, let snow melt on them, fine sand, never found anything inside. If you're worried about it, I'd just smear a super thin film of silicone on one half, bolt it together and wipe off any excess. Last thing you want to do is start modifying the mating surface. Its perfectly flat because its cnc'd, you're almost guaranteed to mess that up trying to do anything by hand.

08.22.2011, 01:54 AM

I'll have to keep that in mind when doing mine as well. I need to get the diffs apart and shims installed and see to it that it all goes together as well. I'd like to take step by step photos after doing a dry run or two make sure it fits. Hardest part about doing this FLM hybrid build has been lack of information or I should say pics so people can get a better understanding. If I can do it nicely a youtube video might be in order as it'll be on the net for a quick reference as well.

cmac · 08.23.2011, 07:56 AM

Great news I just re-assembled my front diff and the new pinion gear did the trick. It's smooth as butter now. It's time to begin final assembly. It's about time, I've just been working towards this point since spring and it is the end of the summer now. Just in time for the fall......not! it's going to 103 for the next two days then 104, and 106F!!!! on Saturday. I hope Weather Channel.com is wrong.