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mistercrash · 01:20 PM

Those modules look awesome, very clean look. ''Looks factory'' like Chip Foose says. The whole bike is pretty darn sweet.

Now I'm having a hard time figuring this out. I presently run on 48V 34 amp SLAs. To get to close to the 48V mark with lipos, do I need to go with 12 or 13 cells? 3.7V nominal times 12 = 44.4V or 3.7V nominal times 13 = 48.1V. Which one is it? If 12 cells is the number I need it seems a lot easier to configure, I would need 12 6S 5000 mah packs total. I would probably try Turnigy packs at first (not the Nanotechs) as I don't think I can convince my wife of letting me spend almost $1700 for Hyperions. Turnigys 40C would be under $900 including shipping.

Man I am also having trouble wrapping my brain around the fact that I could get better power and range from just two battery modules with less than half of the volume and weight of my SLAs.

RC-Monster Mike · 01:12 PM

BrianG - I don't want to add 60 degrees of twist...I want to add 30 degrees of twist(90 to 120). The spring is reasonably stiff now and while it may address the issue, it may also lead to fatigue until my right forearm starts to look like Popeye's! Thumb throttles are for quads IMO - I also ride a gasser dirtbike and street bike, so I would rather stick to the twist-type...I just want a better one than what I have!

Arct1k - Chris, if the other half controlled my ride I would probably only get one ride! I like the twitchy throttle I have better than this idea, thank you. :)

Hippie - thanks for the compliment, Mike. I did some more last night and this morning - I managed to get the stock side panels on with some shimming and broke out the trusty propane torch and bent up a rear fender(not perfect, but not bad for a ghetto prototype). Pics attached

mistercrash - thanks for the compliment. "factory" is the look I was going for. The modules are held onto the bike using the two lower screws on each module(into the aluminum post on either end of the modules). I made a custom lower plate that bolts to the bike in place of the original battery plates. I still want to make a top plate for added security, but they are reasonably solid and I wanted to ride this beast. i may have John Holmes string me up a dirt bike rim onto the rear hub and get a meatier back tire on this thing - along with a gear change to get it up into the 50s(maybe - 40 is pretty fast in the trails already).

Having ridden this bike when it was a 200+ pound, top heavy lead sled I can say that the lipo conversion was worth it and then some. The 50 pound weight reduction and much lower Cg results in a dirtbike that handles like a dirt bike now(top heavy and sketchy in the rough b4). The power is unreal, too - it feels easily twice as punchy as my 300 thumper I usually ride and feels stronger than my 400 KTM supermoto, too. A rookie rider on this thing without limiting the power is almost certain to end up badly!

mistercrash · 10.05.2011, 01:20 PM

Sorry Mike, I edited my post, I have a question in there now lol

rchippie · 10.05.2011, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

BrianG - I don't want to add 60 degrees of twist...I want to add 30 degrees of twist(90 to 120). The spring is reasonably stiff now and while it may address the issue, it may also lead to fatigue until my right forearm starts to look like Popeye's! Thumb throttles are for quads IMO - I also ride a gasser dirtbike and street bike, so I would rather stick to the twist-type...I just want a better one than what I have!

Arct1k - Chris, if the other half controlled my ride I would probably only get one ride! I like the twitchy throttle I have better than this idea, thank you. :)

Hippie - thanks for the compliment, Mike. I did some more last night and this morning - I managed to get the stock side panels on with some shimming and broke out the trusty propane torch and bent up a rear fender(not perfect, but not bad for a ghetto prototype). Pics attached

mistercrash - thanks for the compliment. "factory" is the look I was going for. The modules are held onto the bike using the two lower screws on each module(into the aluminum post on either end of the modules). I made a custom lower plate that bolts to the bike in place of the original battery plates. I still want to make a top plate for added security, but they are reasonably solid and I wanted to ride this beast. i may have John Holmes string me up a dirt bike rim onto the rear hub and get a meatier back tire on this thing - along with a gear change to get it up into the 50s(maybe - 40 is pretty fast in the trails already).

Having ridden this bike when it was a 200+ pound, top heavy lead sled I can say that the lipo conversion was worth it and then some. The 50 pound weight reduction and much lower Cg results in a dirtbike that handles like a dirt bike now(top heavy and sketchy in the rough b4). The power is unreal, too - it feels easily twice as punchy as my 300 thumper I usually ride and feels stronger than my 400 KTM supermoto, too. A rookie rider on this thing without limiting the power is almost certain to end up badly!

Mike is that chassis a kit, or a converted motorcycle ?.

RC-Monster Mike · 10.05.2011, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistercrash

Those modules look awesome, very clean look. ''Looks factory'' like Chip Foose says. The whole bike is pretty darn sweet.

Now I'm having a hard time figuring this out. I presently run on 48V 34 amp SLAs. To get to close to the 48V mark with lipos, do I need to go with 12 or 13 cells? 3.7V nominal times 12 = 44.4V or 3.7V nominal times 13 = 48.1V. Which one is it? If 12 cells is the number I need it seems a lot easier to configure, I would need 12 6S 5000 mah packs total. I would probably try Turnigy packs at first (not the Nanotechs) as I don't think I can convince my wife of letting me spend almost $1700 for Hyperions. Turnigys 40C would be under $900 including shipping.

Man I am also having trouble wrapping my brain around the fact that I could get better power and range from just two battery modules with less than half of the volume and weight of my SLAs.

34AH SLA batteries would be a rough equivilent to 17AH in Lipos - Lead batterries are capacity rated at 20 hours discharge normally - they generally get about half their rated capacity when discharged at 1c. 13s would be a 48 volt Lipo setup. I would just go 12s or 14s myself.

My conversion yielded about 3/4 the volume, less than half the weight and 4 times the usable power vs the lead. I also gained slightly higher voltage and a HUGE difference in voltage under load(way more punch). The difference is huge.

RC-Monster Mike · 01:42 PM

Mike - the bike started life as an electric bike. It had an Etek motor and 4 16AH Hawker Lead batteris. It was built in Oregon in 2004. It was then converted to 72 volt by adding 2 more lead batteries(about 13 ound each). Then, the Etek motor was swapped for a pmg motor(slightly larger, lower Kv) to get back to stock speed(60 mph with the Etek motor). Finally it was converted to 74 volt 30AH Lipo setup shown here. The bike is kind of a hybrid - it uses premium downhill Mountain bike parts to keep it light(Marzocchi super monster tubes for front suspension, 24" MTB wheels/tires and Hayes brakes, though now has Hope M6 brakes). The bike weighed about 165 pounds stock - about 155 pounds or so now. The bike was always electric, though - just wasn't always as light and powerful as it is now! :)

snellemin · 10.05.2011, 01:41 PM

Man, Mike's bike makes my ebike look like a punk.

Awesome ride Mike!

mistercrash · 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

34AH SLA batteries would be a rough equivilent to 17AH in Lipos - Lead batterries are capacity rated at 20 hours discharge normally - they generally get about half their rated capacity when discharged at 1c. 13s would be a 48 volt Lipo setup. I would just go 12s or 14s myself.

My conversion yielded about 3/4 the volume, less than half the weight and 4 times the usable power vs the lead. I also gained slightly higher voltage and a HUGE difference in voltage under load(way more punch). The difference is huge.

This is getting better and better. So instead of 12 6s 5000 mah packs to have 30 amps, I could just go with 8 packs for 20 amps which would be more than enough. Even smaller, lighter and cheaper. With just 8 packs I might even be able to get Hyperions. So have you decided on how much these modules are going to go for? I'd like a snap on lid to protect the balance tabs please

And can you make a single module that can house 8 lipos? I figure that I would have to cut the bus bars.

rchippie · 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Mike - the bike started life as an electric bike. It had an Etek motor and 4 16AH Hawker Lead batteris. It was built in Oregon in 2004. It was then converted to 72 volt by adding 2 more lead batteries(about 13 ound each). Then, the Etek motor was swapped for a pmg motor(slightly larger, lower Kv) to get back to stock speed(60 mph with the Etek motor). Finally it was converted to 74 volt 30AH Lipo setup shown here. The bike is kind of a hybrid - it uses premium downhill Mountain bike parts to keep it light(Marzocchi super monster tubes for front suspension, 24" MTB wheels/tires and Hayes brakes, though now has Hope M6 brakes). The bike weighed about 165 pounds stock - about 155 pounds or so now. The bike was always electric, though - just wasn't always as light and powerful as it is now! :)

Cool. I thought some of the parts looked like downhill bike parts in particular, the shocks & the wheels. Are you going to offer these in your store

.

RC-Monster Mike · 02:26 PM

mistercrash - The module pricing would vary slightly based on size and level of completion. There is a bit of work to get the wall-wrap and it is dependent on size of the batts(have to make a form, then heat the plastic and bend around the form). the upper and lower pieces and lid is the easiest part now, as I should be able to modify my existing design to fit most pack configurations(within reason). The copper plates are easy enough to machine, but the screw posts must be soldered on with a torch - not too difficult, but takes some time and skill. I really haven't done enough to have a good system worked out, so I can't really accurately quote a price yet(not sure on the time aspect). I plan on making another set for 7s packs soon and will get a better handle on the process the 2nd time around.

snellemin - in all fairness, my bike started life as an electric bike from its inception. Most ebikes are cool, though. I think crossing the lighter weight of bicycles with the motorcycle design cues is the way to go - I want to get a supermoto setup for this bike one day and maybe register it for banging around town(I do occasionally cruise on some streets around and always get rubber-neckers). :)

hippie - I didn't make the bike - I only converted it to its current state. I would like to develop an electric frame in the future, though - something that uses widely available parts, but is purposed for e-power. It won't be this week, though. :)

rchippie · 10.05.2011, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

mistercrash - The module pricing would vary slightly based on size and level of completion. There is a bit of work to get the wall-wrap and it is dependent on size of the batts(have to make a form, then heat the plastic and bend around the form). the upper and lower pieces and lid is the easiest part now, as I should be able to modify my existing design to fit most pack configurations(within reason). The copper plates are easy enough to machine, but the screw posts must be soldered on with a torch - not too difficult, but takes some time and skill. I really haven't done enough to have a good system worked out, so I can't really accurately quote a price yet(not sure on the time aspect). I plan on making another set for 7s packs soon and will get a better handle on the process the 2nd time around.

snellemin - in all fairness, my bike started life as an electric bike from its inception. Most ebikes are cool, though. I think crossing the lighter weight of bicycles with the motorcycle design cues is the way to go - I want to get a supermoto setup for this bike one day and maybe register it for banging around town(I do occasionally cruise on some streets around and always get rubber-neckers). :)

hippie - I didn't make the bike - I only converted it to its current state. I would like to develop an electric frame in the future, though - something that uses widely available parts, but is purposed for e-power. It won't be this week, though. :)

I know, i was trying to make a joke

. But with your skills you could easily design & build something like that.