losi 5ive-T conversion pics

[auto2]

2028

[magman]

Well thanks for the updates. You mentioned chassis flex as did I. With a chassis that long it will still flex but w/AL braces I am wondering if it will flex in the wrong places if you know what I am driving at.

You have the batts very forward, how did it handle? Would any benefit come from moving them back a bit? Just curious.

Maybe someday I will get one...just have to save for awhile as it is not cheap. Electronics alone are $ 600+

Hopefully Losi will offer it as a roller some day...maybe?

[auto2]

batterys are in same place as gas tank was and it was a large tank. 800cc?
it flys perfect and is very controlable in the air. just picture a 30 pound losi 8t 2.0.. seriouslly.
if the track ever drys out ill get a vid. snowed 3 inches last night which isnt helping.
the one time i had it on the track it seemed to crash more often. maybe cause i was going twice as fast? it never stops roosting the tires on a 200 foot straight. motor is running COLD! 17 pinion is almost too fast for the track but going by motor temp i can gear it up a lot. so now were talking 50 mph or more?

[auto2]

im not messing with the flex it seems fine as is. maybe a flat brace where the motor was? so chassis thinks the motor is still there lol.
nothing is breaking,bending.
aluminum braces will just move the flex to someware else.

battery tray has like 7 screws in it also.

[Jony Nitro]

Looks good I would motor to sit were the lipo are and then run saddle lipo, does look good

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by Jony Nitro

Looks good I would motor to sit were the lipo are and then run saddle lipo, does look good

You could flip the current mount and center diff, then the motor would be where the gas tank used to be and the battery tray is now. Dont know if theres enough room for the 2028 up there though. A mirror image mount would be better and would be put the motor in the center. Saddle packs might have a bit better balance then. I still think this is the best layout I've seen, balanced and simple with a single battery tray. If it was mine I might cut the esc mount off the tray or just figure a way to move the esc towards the center a bit more.

There are two other kits out. Kershaw is selling someone else's kit that has the motor in the center (where gas engine was) with lipos where the gas tank was (like rc-m). That's alot of lipo weight on the left side and the motor is not helping balance it out being in the center of the chassis. Saddle packs would definitely help in this case.

Skopod has a kit with the motor where the gas engine used to be too (in center), and the esc mounted directly behind. Theirs uses saddle packs, but the trays are mounted really fad out on the chassis, I believe they're actually on the mudguards. Looks balanced, but the trays should be inboard more, too much polar movement (is that the right term?) being so far from center of chassis.

Looks like RC-M wins again!!

[Jony Nitro]

Yes would say that ,Rcm. the others are not value for money.

[auto2]

my battery tray was the first prototype remember. it fits the hobby king 4s 8000 packs perfect but other packs need to stand on end. hence prototype :-)

i have to say these packs are so perfect for this truck. traction is limiting what these packs can put out.
i didnt want to change the center dif oil cause i like its handling and it has good rotation but i think im going to go up to 10,000 (5 is stock) and see if it still handles the same and if that stops the pizza cutter ft tires some.
i upped the current limit to 200 from 175 .

[Overdriven]

Since saddle packs were brought up I was just discussing layouts. It may be a prototype, but it still has the others beat IMO. Tray size is a minor revision either way, especially for Mike.

[Cain]

darn I wish this firewall would let me see your picks!

Was curious how this had been working out for you. Glad to hear it is going well.

You have me toying with the idea of doing a conversion for the MCD I have. Considering how much MCD likes to charge for their parts, I bet RCM or someone else could do a conversion for less than half the cost.

[RC-Monster Mike]

The mirrored mount strategy wouldn't work with this Losi(any of them, really) - the center diff is quite a ways off center, which angles the front-center drive shaft quite a bit and would severely limit gearing possibilities. The ESC placement was for left/right weight balance. The diff, motor, steering servo and radio box are all right-side-mounted, so the battery tray, esc and batteries in their current location created a near-perfect balance using a pair of 5400 4s Hyperion packs as a baseline(figured most would opt for 8s and at least 5kmah capacity). The V2 tray should be done tomorrow, which is just slightly longer and wider to accomodate a wider variety of pack combinations. I may do a few "other" layouts as well - the HK 8000mah packs are huge, so a strategy that allows a pair laid down with the ESC directly behind the center diff may be an option.

I have seen the other 2 options - don't think either is as well thought out or balanced as my kit(my biased opinion of course) and both are likely much more expensive(the one Kershaw is offering is 2x the price). :)

[Jony Nitro]

Yes your kit is cheaper,and better, but how would I Run 14s in theory?and I was thinking about wiring? do you think saddle would be any good?if it could be achieved,

[RC-Monster Mike]

First, you would need a 14s ESC and a 14s motor capable of powering the truck. A pair of 7s packs(Hyperion, for example) will fit the battery tray, though you would need longer straps. I don't see how you would need more wiring or wiring difficulty - the motor and esc and batteries are all near each other on the chassis and a pair of 7s packs wires up the same as a pair of 4s packs. The theoretical 14s setup will create the same challenge on any configuration not designed for your specific(theoretical) setup - nothing is really "one size fits all", but we try for "one size fits most". :)

[Arct1k]

And balls of steel to plug the batteries in :)

14s would be more of an arc than a spark...

[Overdriven]

Mike: I agree rotating the current mount and cd wouldn't work bc of the front shaft and the lack of space in front of the cd. But a mirror image of your mount (not rotated at all) would put the motor in the center of the chassis (behind the cd, not in front) and I can't see why that wouldn't work?? With saddle packs that might have better balance for a wider variety of setups. That was my point and just discussing.

Personally I prefer your more simple design and knowing your other products I don't doubt your research into the balance of the current setup. Didn't see anything about when it will be available??