if u talk to guys that have been using high voltage in their planes I think u will come to the conclusion that 8s is by far the best bang for the buck and more is unnessary.blipping the throttle with 50 volts floating around is not for the guy on a fixed salary
First, you would need a 14s ESC and a 14s motor capable of powering the truck. A pair of 7s packs(Hyperion, for example) will fit the battery tray, though you would need longer straps. I don't see how you would need more wiring or wiring difficulty - the motor and esc and batteries are all near each other on the chassis and a pair of 7s packs wires up the same as a pair of 4s packs. The theoretical 14s setup will create the same challenge on any configuration not designed for your specific(theoretical) setup - nothing is really "one size fits all", but we try for "one size fits most". :)
I have all the above electrics
14s do weigh heavier, thats why i was asking about saddle aswell
Jon
D8T Brushless
Brushless Baja
SC10 Neu Power
Last edited by Jony Nitro; 02.29.2012 at 03:15 PM.
Mike: I agree rotating the current mount and cd wouldn't work bc of the front shaft and the lack of space in front of the cd. But a mirror image of your mount (not rotated at all) would put the motor in the center of the chassis (behind the cd, not in front) and I can't see why that wouldn't work?? With saddle packs that might have better balance for a wider variety of setups. That was my point and just discussing.
Personally I prefer your more simple design and knowing your other products I don't doubt your research into the balance of the current setup. Didn't see anything about when it will be available??
Yes, this concept would indeed work(considered it), but would also ultimately result in the mass being located over a wider area(not as centered on the chassis), as balance would pretty much dictate the packs be out on the mud guards(higher Cg as well). With the mass more spread out(and more mass due to extra batt tray and esc mount), the car would be less likely to traction roll(though mass would be higher, which may offset this benefit), but would tend to be slower in its transitional handling(switching directions) - two battery trays would then be needed as well as a new home for the ESC. Ultimately, I think the current setup offers the most positives and the least negatives. It certainly isn't the only way to convert the truck - just the way I chose to do it. They should be on the home page by the weekend. :)
Yes, this concept would indeed work(considered it), but would also ultimately result in the mass being located over a wider area(not as centered on the chassis), as balance would pretty much dictate the packs be out on the mud guards(higher Cg as well). With the mass more spread out(and more mass due to extra batt tray and esc mount), the car would be less likely to traction roll(though mass would be higher, which may offset this benefit), but would tend to be slower in its transitional handling(switching directions) - two battery trays would then be needed as well as a new home for the ESC. Ultimately, I think the current setup offers the most positives and the least negatives. It certainly isn't the only way to convert the truck - just the way I chose to do it. They should be on the home page by the weekend. :)
14s do weigh heavier, thats why i was asking about saddle aswell
Jon
Then it isn't a theory now, is it? Does the ESC have car firmware and brakes? If not, you would need another servo, servo mount, etc. as well. Without good car firmware, startup leaves a bit to be desired as well. The mount is only one hole away from accepting mechanical brakes, and the stock brake disc will work with the 2028 motor and an 18t pinion or larger(could also trim the disc to allow smaller pinions). The setup shown here is ideal and will work for most without any additonal complexities. For your 14s setup, you may need to do something differently - I guess you maybe already knew that, though(14s in itself is out of the ordinary - I have a 1:1 electric dirt bike that runs on 14s so maybe it is a little overkill for this car?!). :)
Looking at it again, I see your point about the trays being on the mudguards, something I didn't like about one of the other kits. Thought there was room on the chassis for them but there isn't. Thanks for discussing and clearing things up.
I know its off topic but looking back at the data log it looks like that thing is pushing 8 hp! Is that correct? If so thats a ridiculous power to weight ratio, something you cant get in the full scale world.
i got more video sunday.
and i got to do a serious test at the track today.
i got 12 minutes run time at the track with out any stopping. 75 degrees out .motor was 200 degrees ( no fan) esc was 120F
150 amp current limiter . lipo cutoff was 3.4
17 T pinion ( way faster than a 200 foot straight could handle. tires never stopped spinning.
jumps are a 1/4 throttle blip .any more and i have to fetch it from the corn field. actually is drove itself back from the corn lol
I know its off topic but looking back at the data log it looks like that thing is pushing 8 hp! Is that correct? If so thats a ridiculous power to weight ratio, something you cant get in the full scale world.
yes 8 HP and that is traction limited. and had a 200 amp current limiter at that time.
I wonder how much temps would drop using a separate brake servo? I know that was something that MCD at least felt dropped the temps on there planned conversion.