**My FLM CCNeu Maxx Nearly Completed**

[Kcaz25]

Okay after looking further into this I have answered my own question...

I do understand that nitro truggies have a hole underneath the spur gear to get it to the starter box. This seems to be just about its only purpose. I was assured after seeing Mike's chassis. They don't have this hole so neither do I.

I will use a piece of carbon fiber that I have similar to the above picture.

Great! Problem solved. I'll post pics in a few weeks.

-Zack

[mikesauto]

nitro's start at the flywheel next to clutch bell. cut out for big spur??

[Kcaz25]

Oh nevermind. lol Still Rc-Monster Mike's chassis don't have the spur cut out so neither will I for this next evolution of my Maxx.

[SnoopMaxx]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

Okay here is the thing. I really need advice on this. I want to flip my center diff assembly. This will point the motor backwards on the opposite side of the chassis. This will also allow me to move the battery to the front on the opposite side as it sits now. This is the setup that Monster Mike has on his conversions in the store.

Now here is the deal- I will need to make new clearance for the spur gear. Can I raise the center diff assembly with carbon fiber without a problem? SO in other words I will not make a new hole in the chassis but will lift the teeth of the spur away from the chassis with a carbon fiber plate. Will this cause a problem with rocks or other things?

CLICKis like what I'm talking about! And where I got the idea!


-Zack

I see you answered your own question
with the answer I was about to type ......

[Kcaz25]

I want to di-anodize this heatsink. I don't really have an under the hood color scheme, but I don't want the orange. I can't get the heat sink off. Can I apply oven cleaner to the sink with a paper towel? or can someone tell me how to get the heat sink off, so that I can soak it.

I will be dianodizing a couple things with ez-off. I should have a new layout as well as soon as I get that tray from Mr. Mike!

[Kcaz25]

If I could get the gears off that would help. I don't know how. I think the motor is mounted with two screws to the black plastic between the gears and the heat sink.

[SnoopMaxx]

Uups, I posted my comment in the wrong place

Morten

[suicideneil]

I'd tape it up, then use wet & dry fine sand paper to remove the orange anodizing ( tape the paper to a piece of glass or other flat surface, then rub back & forth in the same direction ); nice brushed aluminium finish with little chance of fecking it up with nasty liquids getting into the wrong places...

[Chadworkz]

The servo comes apart very easily, and goes back together just as easily...just take it part, de-anodize (and polish) and then re-assemble! I am sure there are instructions, manuals and/or blown-up diagrams on the web!

[SnoopMaxx]

Chad I couldn't find any exploded drawings other than this


Morten

[Kcaz25]

That is my old tray. New one is being built. Check out the deandozing. I am going to sand and polish the servo heat sink! That thing will not come apart without force and I don't want to ruin the bearing.

Thanks guys!!

[Kcaz25]

Done!! I just put the case back on and started rub it down, I will have to go back over it later with something less corse but I may leave it as is. What do you think? I can't wait to get the truck together!

[suicideneil]

Looks good- some mothers metal / aluminium polish polish would bring that & the plastic up nicely ( T-cut is good for plastic polishing apparently, though there are no doubt proper guides around )...

nice job on the servo...autosol metal polish would be good to polish it up with.
or a wax based polish like farecla g3...then it wont seep in and ruin the internals of the servo.
chris

[Chadworkz]

Everything looks great! Are those Associated servo-mounts? I have a few sets that look just like those, and they are AE...they are great for all kinds of stuff!