It turns out that there are 2 diferent yokes for the stock drivesafts. The revo 2.5 yokes part number 5458, and the revo 3.3/t-maxx 3.3 yoke part number 5458X.
The 5458 works on the revo and the revo 3.3 (any revo diff). The 5458X works on any Revo diff andany Maxx diff.
Everyplace is out of stock on the 5458 and has stock on the 5458X so it looks like traxxas is replacing the 5458 across the board with the 5458X as a repalcement part for either.
My problem came in when I bought what I thought were T-maxx 3.3 drive shafts, but turns out they are actually revo2.5 shafts. :dft001: So to make a long story short (I know... to late) I now have the 5458X yokes that fit the Maxx diffs perfectly and I am swaping them out for the 5458 yokes that are on sliders I have.
So to do the conversion to the 3.3 steering knuckles on an E-Maxx you need the following:
-T-Maxx 3.3 steering Knuckles and bearings
-T-maxx 3.3 Turnbuckles, Rod Ends and long hollow balls
-T-Maxx/Revo 3.3 Sliders (5451X Diveshaft Assembly) Or T-Maxx 3.3/2.5R CVDs Or Revo 2.5/3.3 CVDs
This conversion will get you and extra inch in wheel width from the stock E-Maxx Widemaxx setup. Plus some added duarbility as the 3.3 parts are much tougher than the E-Maxx parts.
I feel much better now that I have solved a problem that I created in my own mind.:rolleyes: Just wish I figured it out before I bought a bunch extra diffs and parts that i didn't actually need. :dft008: Well, I guess you can never have to many spares.
Hope this at least saves someone else the same headache.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Just to make it easier to tell which of the 2 parts you are looking at:
The newer 5458X universal fit yoke has a small amount of relief around the outside edge, and there is a little more relief in the hole for the flats to go farther in when assembling it.
Top: Traxxas Part Number 5458. Revo Diff Only
Bottom: Traxxas Part Number 5458X. Revo or Maxx Diff
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
I agree Squee. The 4 screw 3.3 cases are better. I am actually using them in mine now (or will be as soon as I finsh this). But they arent necessary to convert to the 3.3 steering knuckles.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Found a new wrinkle in this setup. The 3.3 shafts are larger in diameter and if you set the suspension up in any position other than the lowest possible ground clearance setting they rub on the underside of the upper arm and when the suspension is compressed it rubbs on the kower arm. After discovering this I did a little investigation and found out that indeed the 3.3 t-maxx has a revised set of arms that have relief in this area. So... add new 3.3 arms to the list of items needed to do this mod if you are going to use the 3.3 stock sliders. If you use CVDs you dont need them.
Damn... This is getting to be a little more expensive than I planned.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
The new rpm a arms will accomdate the new 3.3 sliders. It has the cut out in them.
To save alot of time and fustration, wouldn't the best way out of buying new arms, is to make that cut on an old rpm to acomindate the slider with a dremel?
it would weaken them. I haven't seen the new ones, but I'm sure there not just the old ones with a relief. They probably raise it to retain the same thickness.