E-crt

[coolhandcountry]

I got it in the wish list. I get it and send it pm.
NOTES FROM OUR TECH DEPARTMENT

This is a 65 Tooth Spur Gear With Screws for the Monster Pirate.

FEATURES: Black Plastic Gear

INCLUDES: One 65 Tooth Plastic Gear Four 3x10mm Flat Head Screws Four 3mm Lock Nuts

REQUIRES: Monster Pirate

SPECS: # Teeth: 65 Teeth Diameter: 2-5/8"

Parts Express Eligible: Yes


ofna
Manufacturer Stock#
18163

[giftacrylic]

Who makes the 9T 5mm bore pinion? I have searched Tower and can't seem to find it.

[coolhandcountry]

If you check with mike he can get them as well. The name of the gear is century.
They are well and nice pinions. The 9 tooth is very small. I got a few to try out and see.
It is hard to find on the search. I got them in my wish list. I find them and pm the site.

[Serum]

search for 9T and it shows up

[pb4ugo]

Here it is:
LXMGY1 Century Motor Gear 9T 5mm 1.0 Module

[coolhandcountry]

I searched for module 1.0 . It came up with all the pinions from 9 to 14.

[giftacrylic]

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

[strodedawg]

so, the hotbodies lsp ring and pinions are interchangeable with the crt's ring and pinion?

[cart213]

Mac, could you post a close-up photo of the Fine Design motor mount? How do you adjust gear mesh with that mount?

[squeeforever]

Cart123, those are just motor holders for a boat. BK sells them and I'm pretty sure Mike can get them.

[Hydrodancer]

Originally Posted by MacII

So what did you do?

Edit - actually, if Hardened Pinions and Spurs are not a good idea, how do Nitro trucks work? I mean, that's what they are using right?

Anyone out there using RC-Monster Hardened Pinions mated to a Nitro Steel Spur and having a problem with pinions getting damaged?

Hey MACII, nice truck. I'm glad to see someone with enough balls to take on the nitroheads up at Wolcott. I just bought an SP1 and I hate it. Its such a beeznotch to get it tuned right (and DAMN those things are MESSY). I'm thinking about converting it to brushless. Thats why I went on this site to try to figure out what motor/esc/pinion combo to go with. Since its electric I think I might try it out on the indoor track.:018: I hope someone starts making a rtr lectric 8th scale so we can run a class. I like the stability of 1/8 but I can't stand the mess!

I "think" the problem with the metal pinion to metal spur is caused by friction and heat transfer. When the teeth engage and disengage eachother they drag and heat up. A plastic spur doesn't have this problem because the plastic is slippery. ALSO, plastic is a non coducter so the heat can not transfer from the motor to that gear.

Nitro engines can get away with metal to metal because there hp is LOW at low RPM. Thats why they have that crappy LAG when you hit the throttle! Lectric motors have max HP at 0 RPM! Thats why they kick arse!

ps. Lester is a really good driver. He beat me and Kevin by a lap last friday at the indoor track.:007:

[cart213]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Cart123, those are just motor holders for a boat. BK sells them and I'm pretty sure Mike can get them.

But how do you adjust gear mesh with those holders? Are they mounted in slotted holes?

Sorry for the long delay since my last post. I've been having endless pinion troubles unfortunately with the E-CRT. No matter what pinion I try, it just eats them up. Even hardned pinions last two to three runs. It's getting very expensive to run the truck. Mike was a superstar as usual and sent me the Kyosho 46 spur with a 9 tooth pinion. That gearing is just about what I can use, still on the tall side but I should be able to finish races with it. My problem with that setup is just time, Madness is this weekend and the motor mount won't reach that gearing. I may try to dremmel it a bit but I know it's not my best skill.

(aside - the motor mount is adjustable because there are two slots drilled into the chassis. Mine were not done long enough nor were they countersunk so it could be lots better. I do however think this boat mounting system is NOT ideal, I'd rather have an "L" shape mount like one I saw months ago on RCCA's site. Unfortunately the guy making those stopped. Anyone out there who can? I'll bet there are lots of 1/8th conversion guys who would pay for that!)

(aside 2 - the 65 tooth plastic spur mentioned would be ideal in fact that is what I was using on my E-LSP. However it doesn't mount to the CRT Diff and {this is just like my luck} the diff it does mount to uses a 7mm hole. I'd need a 7x16 bearing which basically is not made (emailed Boca and a bunch of other bearing companies). I found some on eBay which are completely unshielded. Even still, I'm not 100% positive that the diff would be exactly the same width as the Jammin Diff...I'm investigating this to see if it can work. I've got the complete diff here and if I can't make the 46 kyosho setup work I'll try the eBay bearings.)

I missed the RC-Monster Bash this weekend mainly because two big race weekends back to back would likely cause a little discord to my marital bliss - but also because I was testing those Century Pinions this weekend. They seemed to go a big longer than some others but by 3 5-minute hard runs, they were done.

Other than this, the CRT has been going well. In my local club racing (at Xtreme RC in New Milford) I've been doing well. Generally I put a new pinion in and run Q1 and Q2, I sit out Q3 and put a new one on for the main. Fine Design has some clutch bell conversions which may work. I ordered two from him about 10 days ago but nothing has shown up yet. I hope they arrive before Madness if not, it's dremmel time!

Anyone going to Madness who is very good with a dremmel? I'll buy you lunch!

DM

[coolhandcountry]

If you want mac II. You can get the hot bodies diffs for the jammin. That would lower the diff ratio from 3.31 to a 4.3. The 65 tooth spur won't fit over the diff with out some modding. Just some suggestions.

Thanks, I had heard that changing ring and pinion would be an alternate fix for gearing. I'm saving that as a last resort...