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Brushless Heavy Weight....
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Posts: 1,954
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Kingsville, Ontario
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Custom 5th Scale... 5B Specs... -
11.21.2006, 12:05 AM
Had extra parts.... so I'm gonna to try to build a Buggy with the extra parts... Here's my progress so far... I need to work on Rollcage, Spoiler, Some Chassis supports....
22.5" wheel base... 19.25" wide in the front and rear....
30- 32" length.(not sure yet).. roller without esc, battery, rollcage, aluminum.... is 13Lbs... with batteries it will be 19Lbs... should be less than 21Lbs RTR when complete....
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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11.21.2006, 12:32 AM
That's gonna be a beast - big and heavy! What do you plan to use it for (bashing, racing, etc)?
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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11.21.2006, 02:21 AM
Serious beast!!!
That'll be very interesting to see. What motor/speed control/battery combo are you planning on using?
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
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Brushless Heavy Weight....
Offline
Posts: 1,954
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Kingsville, Ontario
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11.21.2006, 04:41 AM
I just did a very short test run with the feigao 8XL and MGM 24.160 it seems to be okay for now... it's also rear wheel drive.. I need rcalloys to make me a long custom 10MM CVD.... I think I need a 12XL or higher motor... maybe I'll try a neumotor... I plan on using 24 cells.... or 8S lipos.. I'm gonna use it to just screw around..... untill I buy a real 1/5 Scale... The wheels look stoopid on it... gotta get something better...
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BMW M Power!
Offline
Posts: 1,910
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SoCal
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11.21.2006, 05:27 AM
Whoa...thats alot of powerstrokes...
Some 40 series Moabs would look good on there...
BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
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Brushless Heavy Weight....
Offline
Posts: 1,954
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Kingsville, Ontario
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11.21.2006, 11:28 AM
yah.. I'll try those.. I don't want to use the baja 5B tires b/c I want this to be 4 wheel drive when it's finally done....
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RC-Monster Mod
Offline
Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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11.21.2006, 12:38 PM
Any plan on a body that will fit this?
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
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RC Monster, the Final Frontier
Offline
Posts: 3,379
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Minnesota
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11.21.2006, 02:27 PM
What a project man! good job. Any ideas on a body? I'm curious too.
"if you've got something to say, say it peacefully"
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Brushless Heavy Weight....
Offline
Posts: 1,954
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Kingsville, Ontario
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11.21.2006, 02:39 PM
made a short video today, but the Center diff didn't last too long... I'll have to try using something else.... maybe the ofna dominator center drive... or I'll try to lock the diffs..... here it is.. mind my *ss a littlebit...
http://us.share.geocities.com/aqwut/..._36_Cells_.WMV
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BMW M Power!
Offline
Posts: 1,910
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SoCal
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11.21.2006, 03:10 PM
Ouch...you could definitely hear the grinding toward the end.
And that is alot of cells....
BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 10,480
Join Date: Feb 2005
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11.21.2006, 03:41 PM
What diff did you used aqwut?
nice project. Relative badass B I G
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No Pistons
Offline
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA
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11.22.2006, 01:48 AM
Nice job. :)
I used an UE 6 spider diff in my 1/5, and it eats throught it about 8-10 hours of run time (rear diffs so far, twice).
I have FG catalogues and can get you wheel base measurements on FG buggies if you want to use their bodies.
If you decide to go the rally route, the bodies are either 510 or 535 MM wheel base (center of front to center of rear wheels). For rally cars there are many bodies to choose from, Ford Focus, Subaru WRC, Mitsubishi EVO, Renualt Manage, Citroen Xara, even a Dodge Ram truck (from MCD).
I ended up with two 7XL motors, each on 4S4P Lipos. She goes pretty good.
I use an e-maxx tranny that would go out a lot. I ended up doing a single speed G-maxx conversion with all metal gears inside (I forget who it was that made those a while back, but they are holding up), and modifying the top shaft gear's pin. I use and RC Alloy pin (from their drive shaft) to hold the top gear in place.
RC Alloys does not recommend using a shaft longer than 7 inches. I have snapped the heads of two of these shafts (rocks got caught in them, not from the torque of the motors). The new shaft I asked them to modify the design so it is a "straight" rod with pins at the end. I don't think they will snap any more.
Buy two roll cage kits on ebay for any FG on road car. You can get them for around $15 each. Then you can make your own custom roll cage. All you need it for is to support the body on heavy crashes. I have had the same body on mine since day one, it is a Peuget 405 sedan and it is surviving.
I also stripped a lot of plastic wheels. I went to alloys wheels and that cured the problem, but they were heavy. Then I went to Maximizer bead locks with alloy centers. Much lighter and they never stripped. Finally Dace put out their 23 mm hubs, in conjunction with Wabash wheels I now have a light and bullet proof solution for wheels. The forty series tires also put up with the added weight much better (less tire side wall flex for better handling). I did use 3M 3 inch strapping tape on the inside of the tires to act as a "belted tire". This way the tires don't ballon and scrub on the inside of the sedan body.
Keep up the good work. I will take a while to work out the buggs, but after wards this project will be very satisfying. My BL 1/5 rally is one of my favorite cars.
HOpe the tips help, and Good luck.
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Brushless Heavy Weight....
Offline
Posts: 1,954
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Kingsville, Ontario
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11.22.2006, 01:15 PM
yeah, I think the gears are dead....
Serum, I used UE 8 spyders for the front and rear... it's only rear wheel drive right now... For the center diff, I used Ofna LX Pro... I tightened up that set screw thing all the way... but I think I stripped something.. I"m not too familiar with center diffs... You guys know any other way to lock the center diff... would it being filled with JB weld work?... cuz I dont' really want to get a center drive system off of an ofna dominator... I already have the holes perfectly drilled our for this....
Thanks for the tipps.. for the wheels, hexes I'm using RPMS beadlock and still 15mm hubs... its seems to hold up pretty good.. I'm also using the wheel widener, I bought a long time ago.... I'm not too worried about the front and rear diffs because I'm using the stock sized tires... puts less stress than a bigger tire... I know rcalloys doesn't recommend it, but I will build 2 extra supports for the shaft and mount in on the center of the chassis... so it will be no flex... I will used UHMW... thanks for the advice... I just need to know how to loock the center diff now.. Thanks..
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Brushless Heavy Weight....
Offline
Posts: 1,954
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Kingsville, Ontario
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11.24.2006, 02:53 AM
I figured out how to lock the diff.... it was pretty easy actually... here's a a picture if anyone wants to see...
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RC-Monster Titanium
Offline
Posts: 1,256
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Canada
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11.24.2006, 11:24 AM
can you say bl limo?
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