Is there a Quark 125B thermal problem? - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

BrianG · 11.28.2006, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolhandcountry

Irun a 80b quark with pretty good sucess. I mounted it flat on the aluminum chassis.

I don't suppose you've tried 6s with it? I imagine it uses the same FETs as its big brother, just fewer of them...

zeropointbug · 11.29.2006, 01:46 PM

Hey BrianG, what if you were to use a copper spacer in the esc instead of aluminum? Also, you could even cut out the bottom of the case and stick a nice heatsink right out the case and directly on the FETs. It would be a little risky though.

BrianG · 11.29.2006, 02:07 PM

A copper plate would conduct the heat better/faster, but really, Al works well enough once it is installed with less thermal resistance. The copper slab or cutting the case would work [b]better[/i], but I have had great results just doing what I did alone.

zeropointbug · 11.29.2006, 02:41 PM

Well, you know what, i think i just might do this. Where do you start then disassembly then? Do you have a unsolder the motor tabs then?
You can just give a quick brief, i can take care of the rest...

BTW, don't you love how smooth the quark is?! It's so juicy.

BrianG · 11.29.2006, 05:00 PM

You can pop off the end where the power wires go in. To take the other end off, you need to desolder the motor wires. You can try to slide the top plastic plate off, but there is a surface mount cap by the button that may get ripped off (happened to me). You can also simply pry on one side until the plate comes out of the groove. Either way works.

Oh, and a final warning; this will most definitely VOID THE WARRANTY! Do at your own risk...

coolhandcountry · 11.29.2006, 05:57 PM

I am currently running a 1512 2.5d neu on it. It is currently run with 4s lipo.
Yes I have trid 6s limn on it. It had a bad start up. After I got it going it was
ok. It was like had to warm esc up or wear batts down a little. When I say
start up. I mean like first hook batteris up and try to go. Not stop and go.
I tried 6s with a 1930 10t and it poof fried esc and motor. I have ran a 9xl on
it as well. I tried a xl 1200 basic. I have tried a 12xl as well. All the motors had
same issue with 6s. I went back to 4s and have had no issues what so ever.
I do get about 45 to 60 mins of run time on 8000 mah maxxamps pack. :D

neweuser · 11.29.2006, 06:53 PM

Hey, that is pretty good run times CHC. I'm wondering what run times I'll be getting with my Neu 1515 1/y?

zeropointbug · 11.29.2006, 07:00 PM

How i want a Neu motor... next year i'll get one, hopefully i'll have ran my 7XL before then. It's pretty snowy here now so, i'll see if i can seal up all the electronics and put my ProLine paddles on. ;)

Ya, that is very good runtime.

BrianG · 11.29.2006, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neweuser

Hey, that is pretty good run times CHC. I'm wondering what run times I'll be getting with my Neu 1515 1/y?

CHC's motor is only 2000kv for about an L size motor, which is not a very "hot" motor. The 1515 1y is a larger can and higher kv (2200), so I'd say between 25 and 35 minutes depending on driving style, weight, etc.

zeropointbug · 11.29.2006, 07:22 PM

Can you guys give an estimate what my runtime will be with the C-7XL, with the Quark125B and A123 pack of 5s2p of 16.5volts and 4.6Ah. It's a sort of buggy-truggy ;) ... it's high of the ground, but has 1/8 buggy tires (Badlands). The weight fully loaded will be around 7.5lbs.
Oh, and thats geared to go about 50mph

Any guesses? I am thinking around 15 -20max minutes?

jhautz · 11.29.2006, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

CHC's motor is only 2000kv for about an L size motor, which is not a very "hot" motor. The 1515 1y is a larger can and higher kv (2200), so I'd say between 25 and 35 minutes depending on driving style, weight, etc.

The 1512 is definitly a bigger motor than the L can motrs. Much more powerfull also.

zeropointbug · 11.29.2006, 10:30 PM

So, what do mean by that jhautz?

jhautz · 11.29.2006, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

So, what do mean by that jhautz?

Just wanted to point out that the 1512 is a larger motor than the L can Feigaos is all.

Bigger diameter and it puts out more power than a Feiago L ever would.

BrianG · 11.30.2006, 06:00 PM

Yeah, the Neu is larger in diameter and is a different class of motor altogether really, but I was comparing rough KV and can length values...

zeropointbug · 11.30.2006, 06:27 PM

BrianG, so i popped off the power input end of the Quark and looked inside, pretty neat looking for sure. So did you say you would need a 3mm slab of Alum./Copper if I replace the two thermal pads/slab? What is actually holding the whole circuit to the case? Is it purely the thermal pads there? If i were to do this, i would be persuaded to completely seal the ESC right up to make it basically waterproof, and keep dirt out.

If i were to just attach the Quark to an upper aluminum chassis brace that would have alot of thermal mass and heat dissipation capabilities, would i even have to bother with making the thermal adhesive mod? Because there would still be a large temperature differential between the transistor surface and the outside of the case. I like to make things the best i possibly can, and quality is my name. ;)

Would you have any suggestions for using to seal all the holes in the ESC that is not conductive and that is thick applying, such as Silicone Caulking? I think this would work too.

Cheers