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Hayden
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01.22.2007, 07:10 AM

I’ve got a cap meter that is so fine you could change the capacitance of the probes by breathing on them:027:
   
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Serum
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01.22.2007, 07:59 AM

Don't breath then! :p
   
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  (#33)
Hayden
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01.23.2007, 05:11 AM

Comparing the 1940-6 and the 1940-6 hi amp
how much heavier is the hi amp version?
   
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captain harlock
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01.23.2007, 08:32 AM

The same weight. Only difference is the weight of the soket plugs.


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Hayden
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01.24.2007, 07:56 AM

What’s the difference inside? Will I gain more power/torque (what ever you call it) if I go the lowest turn you can get in a 1940 hi amp?

Just to clarify this: lower turns = more rpm but lower power? Can you get the lost power back from the rpm via gearing?
   
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  (#36)
jhautz
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01.25.2007, 02:56 AM

So I soldered up my 1940 with 12gauge wires soldered righ into the 3.5mm sockets. It looks like it should be good. I cant test it though. I had a set of 5.5mm connectors that I soldered onto the new motor wires and on the controller.Turns out one of the female sockets is undersize and the plug wont go in. Its the wierdest thing. Its like the forgot to make the final cut on the inside before they sent it out for plating. Anyway, no big deal, but its preventing me from finding out if I messed anything up with the motor untill a new set of 5.5 plugs comes in. I ordered them, but they probably wont get here till monday/tuesday next week.

In the mean time, heres a picture of how it turned out and I'll let you know how it runs when I get the new plugs in. Thanks for all the tips guys!



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  (#37)
Procharged5.0
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01.25.2007, 03:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
I too am looking for the 1940, but 8 wind, so you're not alone! :)

I think the only difference between the hi-amp and regular is the construction. The regular ones let you switch between delta and wye, while the hi-amp motors are non-changeable for the least amount of resistance.
Doesn't the hi-amp use direct motor wires vs connectors?


Supermaxx-Racer-X, VBS, FLM chassis & Transcase, HSR Motorsports Slipper, Cage, MMM ESC, NEU1515. REVO 3.3, BL X1-CRT, CRT, BL-CRT.5, Procharged '92 Mustang visit www.chitownrc.com and www.rcbros.com
   
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jhautz
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01.25.2007, 03:08 AM

Yes. That is what makes it better. You arent stuck w/ the 3.5mm plugs like on the standard.


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Procharged5.0
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01.25.2007, 03:14 AM

The Lehner looks great.

I nearly bought one.......deceided on the NEU (as you know). It should arrive Thursday or Friday.

Now I have to get the rest of the truck put together!


Supermaxx-Racer-X, VBS, FLM chassis & Transcase, HSR Motorsports Slipper, Cage, MMM ESC, NEU1515. REVO 3.3, BL X1-CRT, CRT, BL-CRT.5, Procharged '92 Mustang visit www.chitownrc.com and www.rcbros.com
   
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  (#40)
Procharged5.0
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01.25.2007, 03:14 AM

Oh, BTW, Nice heat shrink job!


Supermaxx-Racer-X, VBS, FLM chassis & Transcase, HSR Motorsports Slipper, Cage, MMM ESC, NEU1515. REVO 3.3, BL X1-CRT, CRT, BL-CRT.5, Procharged '92 Mustang visit www.chitownrc.com and www.rcbros.com
   
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  (#41)
captain harlock
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01.25.2007, 08:14 AM

Clean job, Jeff. Don't forget to report in.


The name is Alawi. You can call me Al.
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  (#42)
coolhandcountry
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01.25.2007, 06:56 PM

Could you drill the plug out to fit the size plug you have?


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  (#43)
Sylvester
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01.25.2007, 07:33 PM

Leroy i doubt that would be a good idea since the plugs arent that thick, besides i still think the 5.5mm plugs are larger diameter so it would be useless.


The problem with nitro's these days are that they arent brushless... LOL

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  (#44)
jhautz
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01.26.2007, 01:14 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandcountry
Could you drill the plug out to fit the size plug you have?
Possibly, but that seems like alot of hassle for a plug. I jsut got some new ones. Anyway, Id be afraid that I didnt get the finish or fit right and it would be not as good as it should be. Id be risking an expensive ESC for a $2 Plug. The new plug will be here soon enough.

Besides, its not like Im gonna drive it this week anyway. Way to cold out.


I can't decide if its more fun
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or break it...


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  (#45)
Hayden
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02.04.2007, 07:03 AM

Hummm…. Still out of stock do you have an idea when they will be in?

Is the 1940/9 capable of pushing the same setup (with changes to gearing etc…)as well as a 1940/6
Will it still run as good in a boat (with prop changes etc....)?
   
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