MBX-5 going BL. Center diff question.

[SilentMonster]

Well I think I have decided on the MM ESC. Should be here Monday. I don't want to take the chance with 5S. Gonna run 4S but may drop down from the 10AH batteries to the 8AH. I just want to be able to run a 20 min. main and after seeing glassdoctor's run last week That shouldn't be a problem. I've got several 4800 Orion/Kokam packs. Thought Id test run with those to see what it's gonna take for sure. So now on to the motor. I keep going back and forth on whether to run the Neu 1515/2.5d. and hope for the best while waiting on the update from Castle or just go with the Lehner 1940/9. But whats up with that shaft size? Also I don't seem to understand what the difference is in the Hi amp version. Any and all thoughts and criticism is more than welcome. Is there a better motor choice? I'm not looking for stupid fast. I've done all my calculations based on 40mph. My two main goals are: #1 to be more than competitive. #2 efficient. Later, Stephen

[jtracker]

lets get him some help! He needs it LOL :) Looks like he just picked up a Neu 1515 2Y :)

[skeeler]

Hello all.

It's time for some of my patented ignorant-newbie questions:

Can someone please explain to me the issues with center-diff compatibility in brushless conversions? Why does SilentMonster need to swap out his diff gear? And why all the talk about replace the innards of his diff?

Are there some brands of center diff which require less modification? I'm considering using an XRAY or possibly a Losi 1/8th buggy for my conversion. Will these require special attention? Will the Losi's Imperial (non-metric) hardware cause headaches? Does anyone know about any issues that the new Associated RC8 might have? (I realize there's not much info on it yet.)

Follow-on question: What pinion gears are people using with the BL motors in converted 1/8th buggies?

Thanks again, everyone, for all your patience and help.

[Serum]

The problem is that stock nitro centerdiffs use steel spurs. The hardened pinions don't hold long on BL motors, that's the reason why everybody is exchanging them with plastic ones.

The inner gears of the mugen use 3.5mm shafts, over the normal 4mm shafts. the HB (which uses 4mm inner pins) is a 1:1 fit for the kyosho spurs. Since the kyosho spurs are fair cheap, it's easier/cheaper to use a HB diff with a kyosho spur rather than making an adapter to make a 51T ofna spur work. (the 51T ofna isn't a bolton, it requires an adapter)

[skeeler]

Also, what's the extra "M" in "MMM" stand for? And what IS the MMM, anyway?

[skeeler]

Serum,

Thanks for your reply. I like your signature.

[Serum]

Anytime Skeeler. Yeah, that signature has got a story behind it :p

The MM means Mamba Maxx, and the MMM means Mamba Monster Maxx, which is an esc castlecreations is working on. (stronger than the current MM, more current, higher voltage)

[SilentMonster]

"And why all the talk about replace the innards of his diff?" Just to be clear, you don't swap out any internal diff parts. You just swap out the whole diff with the HB diff and just change the steel spur with the Kyosho plastic one.
"What pinion gears are people using with the BL motors in converted 1/8th buggies?" Right here from MIke. http://www.rc-monster.com/gears.php The Mod1 pinions. Most motors use 5mm shafts with the exception of the Lehner 1940 series.

[lxmuff]

Mike has the 4mm mod1 pinions for the Lehner. I have a MBX5 and use a kyosho center diff(the whole thing includung the posts). It fits directly in the MBX5 holes. Of course the kyosho plastic gear works on their diff. I have a
8ight I'm converting now and it takes the kyosho plastic diff with no other changes. Save yourself the headaches, JUST GO PLASTIC DIFF. I usually run a 12-13 pinion at my local track from Tower(century heli pinion).