6mm Bullet Connectors!

[BP-Revo]

Well, I saw on the MaxAmps site that one of the options for connectors on a pack were 6mm female bullet connectors.

I asked Austin and he said he will try to put them up for individual sale (and male ones too!).

Just thought I'd let you guys know. :018:

Yeah, the ones that I got were from Neu's website. They also sell, what they call, battery side connectors. The example that they showed was their use on a sub C cell, but I've wondered if those can be soldered to the Mamba Max onto the solder pads for the esc to motor connections, or even the battery to esc for that matter.

What's really nice about them is that they are only about half as long as the 4mm connector, making dealing with routing the wires a bit easier.

[captain harlock]

The 5.5mm which mike has is about the same. The difference is that the 6mm is rated up to 200amps. The 5.5mm= 150amps. Both are a bit heavier than most connectors, but do the job very good.

[Procharged5.0]

I have the 5.5mm connectors as well. They blow away the 3.5 & 4mm connectors.

[captain harlock]

I assure you that I'll never ever use connectors between motors and ESCs. Only the Schulze 6mm or BK 5.5mm for the batteries, when you attempt HV applications.

The 6mm connectors work very nicely and using connectors make for easy maintenance and changes at the track. According to my Fluke DMM, the use of the connectors added no measureable increase in resistance. I don't know if that would change if current was passing through the connection at the time of taking the measurement, but I haven't had any signs of any problems. I haven't had any cogging or signs of the connectors heating up. What I have noticed heating up is the 13 gauge wire that comes on the MM esc. Since I went with 12 gauge, I haven't had any problems with that either.

[captain harlock]

But I really did notice a sudden rise in heat measures when I used the 3.5mm in my 1/10 scale rigs. I thought it is something normal, but in fact, resistance was very high due to the batteries I was using and those terrible connectors as well. I guess the controller's resistence was somehthing like 1.50ohms or something. That's pretty high, imho.

[glassdoctor]

AAngel, I missed that... you replaced the factory wires with 12 ga?

Maybe I should do that too with my Neu/MM... in addition to the hardwiring.

[MetalMan]

Last weekend at the track my MM's wires got chewed up very badly by the pinion/spur. Fortunately it doesn't appear/smell like the MM shorted out by the wires touching. I've already replaced the wires, but I'm thinking I will do it over again with some proper 12ga. wire (not sure what the wire is that I put on). I used copper braid to suck up the solder that was in/around the holes to get the new wire in, and then I put solder on the wires (when they were in the holes). Hopefully the Deans Wet Noodle (12ga.) will fit.

[BP-Revo]

If the Dean's don't fit perfectly, trim off a little bit of the wire that sticks out to make it smaller in diameter so it will fit. I do this to some of my Dean's connections for a better/cleaner fit.

What happens is that the wire forms an L shape, and the Dean's tab fits right into the void in the L.

GD, I did replace all of my wiring with 12 ga. wire.

MM, I used the noodle wire too. It worked out nicely. The holes in the MM PCB are large enough to easily accommodate the 12 ga. wire.

I really do think that there is something to the resistance issue with the MM in 1/8 scale applications. With my first MM (the one I beat up and tore to hell) I wound up having to replace the wiring and all I had was the 12 ga. noodle wire, so that's what I used. My next upgrade was to the 6mm connectors. When I did the Monster GT conversion, the whole setup went into the MGT. I ordered a new MM for my buggy and installed it in its stock form. I didn't notice it before (probably due to inexperience), but the MGT runs as smooth as butter, but my buggy is having a tad bit of a cogging problem. Nothing even worth mentioning, but it's there. The only difference between the setup in my MGT and my buggy is the wiring, since I have 6mm connectors on both.

I've also noticed that my buddies 8ight, cogs a bit too. His is setup with the stock wiring and 4mm connectors. I'm going to do everything in 12 ga. and 6mm connectors and see what happens. I have my friends buggy with me because it started cogging really bad tonight. It turns out that one of the 4mm connectors is really loose now. Egged the female end at the track so that we could keep running, and it got better, but the problem is still there.

This is something that I'm going to start paying attention to.

[glassdoctor]

Cool... I will have to do the 12ga wire on mine sometime and see what happens. Sounds good actually.. I like to see stuff that has an effect.

[BrianG]

If changing from 13GA (stock IIRC) to 12GA makes such a difference, it must be right on the hairy edge of some limiting factor. A 1GA jump is larger of course, but not that much where it should make that much of a difference IMO.

[captain harlock]

I think Mamba Max would have been much better without wires being presoldered to it( leave the choice to the modeller to choose). They did not count in the usage of their controller in a 1/8 scale trucks and buggies, I think.

BrianG,

I hear what you are saying; but on the other hand, I wonder if going with the 13 gauge wire was settled on taking certain factors into consideration.

From a manufacturing cost standpoint, I think that it's reasonable to assume that 13 gauge wire costs less than 12 gauge wire. If I were manufacturing the MM controllers and 13 gauge was more than good enough for the esc's intended purpose, then I can see why they would go with the thinner wire. We are, of course, running the MMs "out of spec." I may just happen to be that the 12 gauge wire is better suited to our applications. I don't think that the 13 gauge wire is any indication of "being on the hairy edge." My MMs run cool in my conversions and now, I don't have the problem of the wires heating up; not to mention that I'm having less cogging than I did with the thinner wire.

I do have to comment about doing the actual wire swap. I'll acknowledge that I'm not a soldering genius by any stretch of the imagination, but I do well enough. I'm also not using some radio shack stick iron. I use a Metcal MX500, which I believe to be among the best soldering stations that you can get. I'm also using a 700 degree broad chisel tip to do the soldering; and it isn't just a matter of touching the iron to the solder joints to break them loose. The whole esc acts as a heat sink and getting the joints up to melting temp can be kind of hard. All I'm saying is that I'd recommend a good soldering iron if you're gonna do the wire swap.