1406 4 pole 4600kv

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

Update for anyone who still cares, been running the 4600 in my slash LCG (RASH) conversion with great results. 2s geared 27/84 with no timing and low start power. works really well and has power all over the place. topend is quite impressive, just ask the 1/8 scale buggies i was pacin down the straight. still cant get the motor over 150, ran it for ten minutes straight last time at the track and it was 148. this motor is waaayyyy efficient, my 13.5 wont run for ten minutes or at these temps geared this way. many thanks to all the cc folks and especially Patrick for all the help and great products. looking forward to whats on the horizon from cc....

I've got the 1406 5700 combo on order for my LCG Slash. What pinion and ESC setting would you recommend to start off with?

ben

[slimthelineman]

The 4600 was quit enough for the lightish 2wheel sc but with good throttle controll the 5700 would work too, just be ready for wheel spinning power. I would start around 18-21 maybee. Not sure. I have a 8.5 in my lcg now at 21/87 and it's plenty fast, but it's a two pole. I would start with a 18 and go from there with temps. Good luck!

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

The 4600 was quit enough for the lightish 2wheel sc but with good throttle controll the 5700 would work too, just be ready for wheel spinning power. I would start around 18-21 maybee. Not sure. I have a 8.5 in my lcg now at 21/87 and it's plenty fast, but it's a two pole. I would start with a 18 and go from there with temps. Good luck!

Hopefully I can dail it down to where it is controllable. I wanted more motor than was necessary so things could run real cool. I wasn't really taking into account the 4-pole differences though when deciding.

ben

[slimthelineman]

The higher kv motor will run a little hotter than a lower kv one but in such a light car I don't think it will be much hotter. The four poles makes it alot smoother and stronger on the bottom than a two pole IMO. Have fun with I and post a pic when ya get it all together.

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

The higher kv motor will run a little hotter than a lower kv one but in such a light car I don't think it will be much hotter. The four poles makes it alot smoother and stronger on the bottom than a two pole IMO. Have fun with I and post a pic when ya get it all together.

My order is on back order. So I asked Dena if she can change it to the 4600kv combo. We'll see what she says.

ben

[slimthelineman]

Right on man, the 4600 rocked in my lcg. Ran sooooo cool and made so much power. Can't wait for the rebuild kits to come out so I can use it again. You will love the smooth power and low temps.

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

Right on man, the 4600 rocked in my lcg. Ran sooooo cool and made so much power. Can't wait for the rebuild kits to come out so I can use it again. You will love the smooth power and low temps.

Well, even though yesterday I was told it was on back order for two weeks, Dena emailed me today to tell me the order already shipped. She offered that I could send it back and exchange it. Is it worth the hassle do you think?

ben

[slimthelineman]

Idk I like my rigs fast. You'll be lookin at around 40k rpm with the 5700. Quite a bit but not too much IMO. You run on a fairly big track? You could always limit it with the esc settings like max throttle or torque control. Punch controll is horrible for racing from my experience but to each his own I guess. I would run the 5700 since you were planning on it anyway and just see how it does. It will definately be fast!

[bruce750i]

I've ran the new 7700-0m9wTf in a Sc10 for a spell. Some kids watching me bash, asked if the truck had a turbo, I said "yes it does", I couldn't stop stabbing the throttle. At 12/87ish 2s the rpms sounded wicked. I overheard another racer ask his friend after seeing it excelerate(high grip track) if it was a 4x4. He didnt understand, It's a Castle 1406!

This Bud's for you Patrick and the Castle Creation team

I would go 4600 for more voltage options.

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

Idk I like my rigs fast. You'll be lookin at around 40k rpm with the 5700. Quite a bit but not too much IMO. You run on a fairly big track? You could always limit it with the esc settings like max throttle or torque control. Punch controll is horrible for racing from my experience but to each his own I guess. I would run the 5700 since you were planning on it anyway and just see how it does. It will definately be fast!

Slim,

I agree punch control is terrible -- but the new "torque control" option is AWESOME... give it a try.

Patrick

[outlaw]

I agree with Patrick !
torque control is really great !

Well, because Dena was kind enough to do an exchange, I sent the 5700 back. It means I have to wait, but it should be worth it in the end.

ben

I sure hope someone has a suggestion for me. I just installed a new Castle Creations 4600kv 4-pole motor in my 2wd Slash. At the same time I changed the diff fluid to 50,000wt and change the gearing to 18/86.

On my test run in the street it pulls very aggressively to the right (to be honest now that I'm back in the house I can't remember if it was left or right) when on full power. I mean it will sometimes just spin out because I can't counter steer it enough. Especially from a stand still. Clearly one of the wheels is getting more drive than the other, but why?

I've checked the wheels and drive axles and nothing seems to be binding at all. There are no weird noises either.

What could be the cause?

I hate tearing into the diff on this truck. You have to remove so much to get to it. Otherwise I'd investigate, but hoping to get some clear suggestions from people who may have experienced this before I open anything up.

ben

[kingdomracer]

I've experienced this where a hub pin is broken and you can't see it until you take the hubs off.
Come to think of it make sure your center drive shaft is working with both front and rear hubs attached properly to the center diff/slipper clutch and the front diff too.
Once a set screw was able to back out and not until I took it apart I didn't see it.

Originally Posted by kingdomracer

I've experienced this where a hub pin is broken and you can't see it until you take the hubs off.
Come to think of it make sure your center drive shaft is working with both front and rear hubs attached properly to the center diff/slipper clutch and the front diff too.
Once a set screw was able to back out and not until I took it apart I didn't see it.

This is a 2wd Slash.

Power seems to getting to both wheels, but more to one of them. If I hold the truck rear bumper, it lays an even amount of rubber on the ground. To me this means neither side is really slipping or losing drive.

ben