Castle - Make A Special Edition Monster - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

Sammus · 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edumakated

The current design isn't good for anything except running your truck at 60mph up and down the street which I am sure is what most bashers are going to be doing, but it won't last more than a couple of trips to the track.

Sorry but I must disagree. I can't imagine how you drive your cars, but I've had the Mamba Max since its release, and had lots of huge high speed cartwheels and awkward landings on some big jumps and have never, ever, damaged the mamba case in any way. Filled it with sand, mud and dirt, yes, but cracked or damaged it? No.

The only way I've managed to hurt/kill my mamba is when I tried to perform Arturs mod's myself with innappropriate tools, and ended up destroying a bunch of the SMCs...

FWIW I don't think high speed runs count as bashing... bashing tends to be the hardest on your truck out of any form of driving, hence the name: bashing. For the most part, bashing is the youtube vids you see of kids driving there car off cliffs and hitting quater pipes and crappy home made shapeless launch ramps etc, only to try and land on flat ground in the middle of the road pfft *shudders* makes me cringe everytime I see them.

Cain · 06.04.2008, 11:55 AM

I too wouldn't have minded a 4S rated ESC with the BEC built in as that right now is the limits for Racing in MT class for RC Pro Series, and wouldn't be suprised that it becomes the limit if 1/8 scale racing takes off into an actual class.

My Mamba Monster so far has worked excellent for the day of racing I put it through. Just need to redo my servos and I will be set.

Anyway, I think the main thing I would want them to do for a special edition Monster is make one that does not require a fan at all. Has a programmable BEC, and if using the castle link have a plug that doesn't require me to always unplug from the receiver ala Mamba Max setup, just put a dirt cap on it. Do that and I am golden.

BrianG · 05:07 PM

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

10s to 12s version.
Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.

Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.

And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.

An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.
Keep the exceptional customer support Castle is known for...

06.04.2008, 12:57 PM

While on the "wishlist" thing i want one that is also dual channel so that i can run both motors on my wheelchair. 20s capable would be nice also.

Finnster · 06.04.2008, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

10s to 12s version.
Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.

Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.

And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.

An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.

That is almost the decription of my MGM 9032. My wishlist would be that ESC, but with better programming, and away with the lame-o 3.5mm bullets.

Its a sweet controller, less than $500, just the CPU programming and CS from Czechoslovakia is lacking.
The MGM 16024 is awesome as well. Either of these cloned as a CC controller would be nice.

06.04.2008, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

10s to 12s version.
Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.

Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.

And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.

An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.
Keep the exceptional customer support Castle is known for...

Said in the voice of Patrick Stewart

"Make it so number 1"

GriffinRU · 06.04.2008, 10:10 PM

I am looking for an opportunity to build ESC for monster-club members.

I can cover electronics, cooling and software, but I need somebody to help me out with micro programming. I got couple kits from atmel and siliconlabs, but have no time to play with them (need to feed the family, only week-ends for you guys) if anyone have a great experience with micro's let me know and we will blow away any ESC manufacture on the market (including MGM) with support and features with the help from RC-Monster members.

I am pretty sure Luciano (Lutach) can help us out with parts and RC-Monster forum members with specs and features. Why waiting for CC if they are deaf and ignorant and MGM is way too far, while Quark is lost in space and Tekin is just on horizon.

Pdelcast · 06.07.2008, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

Why waiting for CC if they are deaf and ignorant

WTF am I doing here then?

Here's the deal -- take $7000.00 and bootstrap your own company in eight years to $11 million in sales and 50 employees in a niche market. THEN you can call me ignorant.

Pdelcast · 06.07.2008, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

I am looking for an opportunity to build ESC for monster-club members.

I can cover electronics, cooling and software, but I need somebody to help me out with micro programming. I got couple kits from atmel and siliconlabs, but have no time to play with them (need to feed the family, only week-ends for you guys) if anyone have a great experience with micro's let me know and we will blow away any ESC manufacture on the market (including MGM) with support and features with the help from RC-Monster members.

I am pretty sure Luciano (Lutach) can help us out with parts and RC-Monster forum members with specs and features. Why waiting for CC if they are deaf and ignorant and MGM is way too far, while Quark is lost in space and Tekin is just on horizon.

Yeah, good luck on that. First of all, the hardware isn't simple -- believe me, it's not just sticking some FETs and drivers on a board and wiring them together. Do you know what dV/dT induced turn-on is? Where it can happen? Do you know what current-induced shoot through is? Anyone can create a 10 or 20 amp MOSFET based controller -- but when you get over 100A and the induction voltages are HUGE -- that's when it becomes difficult. Believe me, I've been doing power design for over 20 years and everyone thinks it's easy UNTIL THEY TRY IT.
The first time you see a MOSFET turn on and destroy a controller, while the gate being held off by a driver, and no voltage on the gate, -- then you might know what I'm talking about.

And software -- there's six man-years of development time (and two patents) in the Mamba software. It's not really something that can be slapped together in a couple of weekends.

Oh, and by the way -- I started working on a larger MMM last weekend. Making it a pet "off the clock" project. My biggest issue right now is justifying the cost of tooling... but we'll see. :)

Patrick

DRIFT_BUGGY · 06.07.2008, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Oh, and by the way -- I started working on a larger MMM last weekend. Making it a pet "off the clock" project. My biggest issue right now is justifying the cost of tooling... but we'll see. :)

Patrick

A bigger MMM, could this be the Mamba Monster Max or Mamba Mega Monster

GriffinRU · 06.07.2008, 05:22 PM

Quote:

WTF am I doing here then?

Here's the deal -- take $7000.00 and bootstrap your own company in eight years to $11 million in sales and 50 employees in a niche market. THEN you can call me ignorant.

I do not know?
One day... and probably with less effort.
But I do have respect for what you done and still doing, but I am bummed that you treat me as an idiot with solder iron or amateur - whatever you call it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Yeah, good luck on that. First of all, the hardware isn't simple -- believe me, it's not just sticking some FETs and drivers on a board and wiring them together. Do you know what dV/dT induced turn-on is? Where it can happen? Do you know what current-induced shoot through is? Anyone can create a 10 or 20 amp MOSFET based controller -- but when you get over 100A and the induction voltages are HUGE -- that's when it becomes difficult. Believe me, I've been doing power design for over 20 years and everyone thinks it's easy UNTIL THEY TRY IT.
The first time you see a MOSFET turn on and destroy a controller, while the gate being held off by a driver, and no voltage on the gate, -- then you might know what I'm talking about.

And software -- there's six man-years of development time (and two patents) in the Mamba software. It's not really something that can be slapped together in a couple of weekends.

Oh, and by the way -- I started working on a larger MMM last weekend. Making it a pet "off the clock" project. My biggest issue right now is justifying the cost of tooling... but we'll see. :)

Patrick

Nice, when you were starting your carrier I was modeling fet's...dv/dt... :)
Yeah I am hearing that allot about software and not from you only, just 2 patents

At the end I was trying to give you a hand, while you slapped it. Sorry my friend now I do not care what you a planning to do, as long as you make them I can tweak and improve them. And who knows maybe one day I will open my own company, but as for now I have no plans to do that.

bdebde · 06.07.2008, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

...Oh, and by the way -- I started working on a larger MMM last weekend. Making it a pet "off the clock" project. My biggest issue right now is justifying the cost of tooling... but we'll see. :)

Patrick

Nice to hear it!

Pdelcast · 06.07.2008, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

10s to 12s version.
Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.

Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.

And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.

An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.
Keep the exceptional customer support Castle is known for...

OK, well 200A and single layer FET board would be REALLY BIG. It would take about 108 FETs to do 200A reliably (same number of FETs as the Phoenix-110HV.) or about 2.5" square with 6x5mm FETs (about 6 sq in of board.)

What I'm working on now is the same footprint as the MMM -- but with 72 HV FETs (36 per side) and stackable. Would be good for about 130-150A in single layer, 225A or so in double layer using our newest FETs. (If we can drive that many of them without creating too many issues.)

Patrick

BrianG · 06.07.2008, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

OK, well 200A and single layer FET board would be REALLY BIG. It would take about 108 FETs to do 200A reliably (same number of FETs as the Phoenix-110HV.) or about 2.5" square with 6x5mm FETs (about 6 sq in of board.)

What I'm working on now is the same footprint as the MMM -- but with 72 HV FETs (36 per side) and stackable. Would be good for about 130-150A in single layer, 225A or so in double layer using our newest FETs. (If we can drive that many of them without creating too many issues.)

Patrick

Yeah, I didn't think it would be easy or small or even practical. It was a "wish list" after all, not an "easy wish list".

TBH, the 200A+ and 20s capability is a tad overkill for most setups (maybe the 5th scales). But it sure would be neat to use an ESC like that in an e-bike or something.

And about "robbing" the parts, I was referring more to taking what already works and has been tried and true (like the MM brains) and experimenting with the power section. Just an idle thought. I know what it's like to have something you design be stolen, but it was not my bread-n-butter so it didn't matter so much.

Pdelcast · 06.07.2008, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

Yeah, I didn't think it would be easy or small or even practical. It was a "wish list" after all, not an "easy wish list".

TBH, the 200A+ and 20s capability is a tad overkill for most setups (maybe the 5th scales). But it sure would be neat to use an ESC like that in an e-bike or something.

And about "robbing" the parts, I was referring more to taking what already works and has been tried and true (like the MM brains) and experimenting with the power section. Just an idle thought. I know what it's like to have something you design be stolen, but it was not my bread-n-butter so it didn't matter so much.

Well, what I was talking about above was for a 12S design, not 20S. We do have the SHV controller which is good for 20S, but it gets very expensive very quickly to do 20S.

The SHV-250 is 20S, 250A and a BIG footprint (close to 3"x6")

And I'm not kidding about robbing the brain boards -- no zombies here! I don't even like the thought of robbing a brain board 'cause they are soldered down on the power board as a hybrid, and it would really difficult to remove without damaging / destroying it.

I'll be changing the MMM control board design to take it from 26V maximum usable voltage to 54V maximum usable for the MMMM (or 4xM? Mega MAX? M-quad? B.F.E.S.C.?)