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gimpygolden
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08.17.2008, 11:32 PM

My GTP with neu/quark set up did the same thing. It was a bad connection where the wires attach to esc. I re-soldiered it and all is good.


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Arct1k
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08.17.2008, 11:34 PM

Can you give a close up pic of the wiring - thx
   
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spaz163
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08.18.2008, 08:21 AM

If you have had the motor out lately, maybe the mounting screws are hitting a coil and grounding out a phase... had it happen to my 8XL. Try shorter screws.
   
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e-mikey
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08.17.2008, 11:54 PM



Best I can do with this lense
   
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TruckBasher
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08.18.2008, 12:04 AM

Hard to say if there are cold solder from that picture. Either that or a failure on the rotor.. IMO


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BrianG
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08.18.2008, 12:15 AM

I know from experience that a blown motor will get VERY hot. I tried a CD in my Revo and it unloaded so much that the motor (10XL) spun relatively unloaded. Well, that's bad and it got very hot. Next time I ran it, it had a lot less power but got blisteringly hot. Mine never cogged though. Someone else used the rotor for a 7XL motor and it ran fine, so the rotor was fine. The coils just somewhat burned up. So I wonder if the problem is not the rotor, but one of the coils?

As others have said, it could be a cold solder joint, or just a toasted motor. I would try resoldering. Hopefully it's just that...

Last edited by BrianG; 08.18.2008 at 12:16 AM.
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bensf
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08.18.2008, 01:15 AM

Does it all work fine when you take the pinion off so theres no load on the motor?
   
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e-mikey
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08.18.2008, 07:20 AM

Yes bensf, actually it does.
   
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tc3_racer_001
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08.18.2008, 07:32 AM

thats really strange. same thing happened to my reedy 3 star in my tc3 last week and it would work fine if i pushed it (as if it was geared WAY high) then it was fine. motor was hotter than usual but the esc was quite hot... then i plugged it in again and it blew the caps and fets... grr... anyways castle wouldnt replace it under warranty (dodgy) anyway thats life.


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