Mamba Max w/ Fiegao 9L - Series Harness? Or what?

[rawfuls]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

You dont need to read the whole thing, there are seperate sections relating to the different issues you are asking about.

2 + 2 = 4. Series doubled the voltage, parallel doubles the mah.

You will need:

A UBEC / BEC.
A capacitor equal to 25v 105*C low esr 2000-4000uf.
A series Y-harness for the 2x 2s lipos to be wired together IN SERIES.

Yes, you are stupid, now go away before I fart on your head.

If you skip to the lipo tutorial, it explains what you need to do, as does the BL upgrade section in the FAQs.

Its all good...

Oh no, not the stinky farty.
Obviously I'm retarded...
So, I think I have it... Diagram:


Isn't the capacitor included into the UBEC? I see some capacitors sitting on the board.

Then again, I'm stupidly retarded.

[suicideneil]

That diagram is correct- it works for lipos or nimhs if you want to wire packs in series.

As for the capacitors, there are some on the BEC itself, but those are part of the BEC itself, an unrelated issue so to speak concering the servo and rx power circuits. The capacitor you need to buy is for the main power circuit- novak used to sell an item for the older hvmaxx esc that was perfect, but the newer style item they sell has some flaming death related issues at present, so I would say digi-key or radio shack is your best bet for what you want- a low esr 25-35v cap with 2000-4000uf of capacitance. I would say ebay, but you usually only find giant reels of them for sale, by the dozen or more when you onyl want one or two...

[rawfuls]

Am I supposed to plug it into the AUX plug in the RX?
Hmph.
I'm assuming this has nothing to do about frequencies.. right?

[suicideneil]

The UBEC / BEC- thats goes into the aux or battery slot yeah on the rx.

Nothing to do with frequencies as such, though AM radios will be more likely to glitch with one installed as they emitt a fair bit of RF noise. Digital radios will be fine.

[rawfuls]

Errrma, I'm lost.
Stupid Neil, you get noobs lost.
Okay.
UBEC RX pug goes into the AUX slot.
The other two (polarities - red and black) go where?

On the capacitator, are we speaking of something like the Glitch buster or something of that sort?

[rawfuls]

Wooohoo, finished up my Series connector, not as color polarity pretty, but it'll do. Sharpies do all the work :p

[suicideneil]

The other two wires from the ubec (red and black) wire to the main battery pack; thats how a ubec works, it takes the main battery voltage (say, 2s lipo), and switches it down to ~6v for the rx and servos to operate from.

On the capacitor front, its a bit like a glitch buster, only quite abit larger, higher voltage, and wired to the main + and - wires coming from the esc to the batteries. If you look up GriffinRu, you'll see his stage 1 MM mod- exactly what we're recreating here basically.

[rawfuls]

So, I can just solder it up to the ESC's male Dean's plug?

Sorry, but what exactly does the capacitator do? I'm assuming it assures the ESC....nvm.

[suicideneil]

Pleb head.

Look up capacitor on google or wiki- it'll explain what is is and does- its basically like a mini battery that stores current, then releases it (quickly) when its required. It also helps to absorb ripple currents that can harm the esc from the batts. You can solder it to the deans, but ideally you want it as close to the esc as possible to get the most benefit- you can see how people added cap banks to their esc from lutach in his HV esc thread for a better idea.

[rawfuls]

lmao, shows how much I know.. There's a reason why I don't touch the brushless business.
Anyways, any idea of my other problem, the slipper settings or some sort?

[suicideneil]

Im unsure about the esavage issue. Im assuming the system runs fine when its not mounte din the truck (or the pinion isnt meshed to the spur, same deal). I would suggest checking the truck rolls smoothly to look for any binding in the tranny or diffs, that will be the first stop to diagnosing the problem...

[rawfuls]

Alright, just finished wrecking my UBEC..... I wasn't trying to make anything permanent, so I stripped a bit of the insulation off the ESC wires, to expose some copper, wrapped positive and negative together, and it lights up, yay!
Plugs in! Yay! No shorting out! (I guess I pulled the red wire a bit too hard, spent about 30 minutes setting my soldering station up (It's completely convertible, I take a small table, my garage workbench I lay it out, and plug everything in..) soldering the red wire back, took less than 30seconds, and my soldering isn't exactly "neat" so, I'm gonna order a better UBEC.. Any recommendations?)

Got everything together, had to experiment, how it'd run.

I concluded, that if I gave the Savvy a little shove, it runs.. Like completely normal. I think this is where the capacitor steps in.. I guess the current is rippling, as when you start the motor, it requires more voltage to step it into the spot, and start running.

Also, after about 5seconds, running around in my brothers room (my RC room.. until he comes back from Davis for the Thanksgiving Holiday, I live about 6 hrs from his school >_>) the ESC is almost smoking. It's VERY hot.
Also, Neil, I know you've got to be the Fieago master.. so.. halp!

Anywho, I need a capacitor, (what rating?), some new gear ratios - I'm looking for a even layout, although, I want wheelies on demand! :p, and a new UBEC.
I'm only purchasing upon recommendations.

[rawfuls]

After a chat with brushlessboy16, who's rigging up 12 25V 330uF caps, onto a board, and selling it to me... Neil, this WOULD work, right? :p

[BrianG]

Wow, that's almost 4,000uF! You're gonna get a pretty decent spark when you power those suckers up. Really, only an additional 900-1200uF is plenty IMO. If these are to address a heat issues, I would be looking to cure the problem, not the symptom.

[rawfuls]

Hehe, let's just say, carried away with numbers.
How would 5 in series do?