I run the protoform GT or Kyosho Ferrari body. I just got a Lola looking body from
TC5racer as well.
Well out running today and motor locked up. This happend running on blacktop and drifting here and there. I really loved the motor and the KV and torque was perfect. I slapped the longer 2300kv Bigmaxx instead and hope it last longer. Geared for around 54mph. It has too much torque for the poor blue foams.
I wanted the pillow ball setup in the rear, but didn't want to spend an arm and a leg for it. So Ebay to the resque and bought OFNA Rear Pivot Ball Kit, MP-6 Part# 31297 for 14 bucks plus shipping. I had to shimmy it a bit, but now I have a nice 13" wheelbase. The thing is on rails and zooms like mad.
Here's the bigger motor. It's scary to drive with this beast.
Those shims should work alright. If you want the kit made specifically for the GTP, go HERE. That is the same one I bought a while back. Perfect fit! It also includes the newer style anti-roll bar and a spare set of front lower arms...
I can take pics for you after work tomorrow (today? ) if you want.....
I was thinking of getting the GTP2e from Tower for a while now. I have a Tekin RX8/T8 2250 combo kicking around not doing much. How would that go in the GTP? Would the diffs hold up to 5-6S power or would I have to upgrade them? Don't want to spend a huge amount of money as I still have a whole fleet of RCs to maintain.
Are the diffs in the nitro and electric version the same?
The Bigmaxx is a 1800W 2300kv motor and about the same length as Castles 1520 motor. It runs on 4s Acepow. The other Pletty that I blew up was a 1000W 3000kv motor.
The Bigmaxx has too much torque and I'm actually considering using the current limiter. 1000W or like most 1512 motors are perfect for the GTB.
Motors that I have used in either GTP's are:
Hacker C50 13L 1874KV and 6L 4060kv motor (As smooth as sensored and perfect amount of torque w/quick spoolup)
Plettenberg Maxx 3000kv and Bigmaxx 2300kv motor(4 pole motors that spool up like a 2 pole)
Castle 2200KV and 1520 1600kv motors(both are torque monsters, but slower spool up)
Tekno Neu 1512 1400kv motor(Way smoother than Castle motors)
Tekno Neu 1515 2700kv motor(Fast smooth torque monster)
Tekin 4030 1400kv motor(Even smoother than the Tekno Neu)
Lehner XL Basic 3100kv motor(Tough little motor, but an XXL would've been better)
Hacker C50 Maxx 14.4 3600kv motor(Same can size as the C50-L motors, but less torque due to shorter rotor magnet)
LRP 2500kv 1/8 motor.(13mm rotor just doesn't cut it. Worked well in lighter vehicles. Power is equivelant to a C40-L Hacker motor)
ESC's that I've run in the GTP's:
Losi 1/8 ESC(Ran 6s A123 with Tekno neu 1515 2700kv motor. Blew up after firmware update)
Lutach LT-10s 120A(10s A123 is overkill with a 1400kv Tekno neu)
Tekin RX8 with cap bank(favorite)
Those Hacker C50 motors are very nice. Had one awhile ago and wish I never traded it away now.
I was hoping the LRP 1/8 motors would be promising for 1/8 on-road, too bad. I am looking to try a sensored motor, and besides Tekin the options are pretty limited. Nothing wrong with Tekin, I'll probably go with one, but I always like to see what's out there.
What do you think about sensored vs. sensorless in 1/8 on-road snellemin? I have only used sensorless in my 1/8 off-roads, and since my MMP has the sensor port I decided I want to give a sensored motor a try.