Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it is. Or, it might be 3.2, for some reason 3.2 sticks in my head...
I would say that it's not the best idea to drain them this far, i only did it for testing purposes. You can tell however that the batt does slow down before this point. I noticed a dramatic change in the performance minutes before the batt dumped.
"if you've got something to say, say it peacefully"
I need help with my LiSaver that I bought from Mike, here's the story (also mailed to Mike):
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When I first connected it to my E-Maxx truck BEC side (stock radio and Hv-Maxx ESC, MaxAmps 8000 LiPo) it worked fine for about 30-40 seconds after that the truck wouldn't move. I disconnected the Li Saver and all worked ok. Connected the Li saver back up and it "puffed" and a slight sign of white smoke appeared. I let the Li saver sit for a while (30 minutes) moved it bit off from other electronics and now it seems to work but I have doubts if I can trust it or not.
After this incident I havent really ran my truck due to a radio change got the new 3Pm 2.4GHz in. Since I wanted to verify the LiSaver I tried it out with my 7 cells NiMh's.
All is fine when running 7 cells NiMh's without the LiSaver.
If I hookup the LiSaver however strange things happens.
Transmitter is turned on first then the car.
The car is idle for about 2 seconds but after that it's FULL THROTTLE !!!
I just barely managed to save it from slamming into a brick wall.
And all this is without me even touching the transmitter which as I said is turned on.
I have reproduced this three times, the last two with the pinion off :-)
If I remove the LiSaver all is working as expected. I have a masters in Electrical Engineering so I am not all lost among the wires in my car.
Should I need to reprogram the ESC when LiSaver is connected - I can see why ?
Any other ideas ?
You should reprogram due to the new radio. But unfortunately, mine LiSaver did the exact same thing! What controller do you use? I reprogrammed mine last night and put in a new rx, seems fine for a short run......but not sure how much I trust it....with that said, reprogram, then have someone hold the truck and try it out before you let it go on it's own to be sure it works....also, make sure you get the distance measured too.
"if you've got something to say, say it peacefully"
I dont really know when it happend but there has been no heat involved. The pins you can se on the picture connects to my ESC wire so it's not even close to the ESC. It's not the ESC pins you are seeing its the end that connects to the ESC wire but with the plastic housing removed.
Both receiver and ESC are fine.