kontronik jazz 10-32-55/ twist-42 combo

[captain harlock]

I now want to know if my Jazz 55-10-32 esc is capable of handeling circumstances of rc cars applications and specially off road racing. When I used it with the LEHNER 1920/8 turn motor it really did n't work very well, but I guess its because the motor consumes higher rates of amps than what the esc provides specially when it comes to sudden acceleration( dragging) and so on and I think it wont do the same thing if I connect it to a small motor like the TWIST-42 which only needs 40 amps CONT. and 60 AMPS SURGE, but then again only people of experience can give some hlpful answers.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Any controller that is not specifically designed for cars will not be ideal for car applications. The software simply is different. It has been said, also, that the the kontronic controllers only work well with the kontronic motors. For car/truck applications, you should get a controller designed for this type of use.

[captain harlock]

I konw that Miky and that is why I'm puzzled, the manual of the Jazz 55-10-32 said that I can programme it to car racing application and they gave me the steps to make that program active and it really worked very well, but not with the 1920/8t on 10 cells. That is why I'm thinking that the 1920 requires high current, higher than that of the Jazz 55-10-32 ESC. The controller produces 55 amps cont. and 70 amps surge, but it thermals. The gear ratio might be playing a big role here. I'm using 52 spur and 15 pinion in a B4 buggy.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Does the controller work well before it thermals? As I said, the kontronic controllers seem to work best with Kontronic motors. Gearing down would help with the thermals, as would a fan on the controller. The twist motor(4200) or lehner 4200 basic will both draw less amperage than the 1920/8.

[captain harlock]

NOW YOOOOU finally got to the point, I've used a fan and the controller needs a bec or receiver pack to work and I put a pack and believe me the thing is silky smooth, but it starts to thermal once you use sudden acceleration more than 3-4 times, after that I started to think that the 1920/8 is too big for the 55-10-32 to handle, but maybe the twist-42 will work much better and yes as you said its smaller and it surely drains less amperage than the 1920. The gearing hasn't changed since then though.

[RC-Monster Mike]

What batteries are you using? If it starts to act up after 3 or 4 hard launches, it could also be voltage drop (I am not too familiar with the kontronic stuff, but most controllers cut out when the voltage drops below a % of the starting voltage), although 10 cells shouldn't drop voltage that quickly. Drop a couple teeth on the pinion and see what happens. Ultimately, you would probably be better off with a better matched set, though(smaller motor or bigger controller).

[captain harlock]

I dont think the problem is with the battery. They are produced by Team TRINITY and they're amongst the best of the GP'S in the market. The controller as I said thermals after 3-4 times of taking off, then by the next drag the motor barely moves, but just give the controller 5-10 seconds and then it accelerate as good as before, you know what I'm thinking? the controller gets very hot and after it thermals the air that is blown into it by the fan cool it down a bit and then it functions properly once again. So I think the problem really stands behind the amount of current the controller provides, but what is more important is to approve my hypothesis and bring the TWIST-42, otherwise I might need to buy a BK 9918 or wait till the MAMBA MAX comes out, but first the problem must be identified. Yup that's right.

[RC-Monster Mike]

It certainly sounds like it is thermalling. I think you have it pegged. A smaller motor will likely solve or at least minimize the problem.

[captain harlock]

Yes I too guess so. According to Kontronik the Twist-42 drains 40 amps continuous and 60 amps surge. So this motor is ideal with the Jazz 55-10-32 controller. I have the fun-42 which is identically the same as the twist-42 except that the mount holes in the twist is designed to fit in rc cars and unlike the fun-42 which has a very small diametre and I could not bolt it into the motor plate but only through one mounting hole, plus the twist is designed in the shape of a heat sink and it looks like a real motor.

[RC-Monster Mike]

I think there is also a mounting plate that will allow the fun motor to bolt to a normal 540 mount. How far apart are the mounting holes placed on the fun motor?

[captain harlock]

I think the motor's diametre is 25-28 mm and the mounting holes are 19 mm while the regular 540 motor's mounting holes are 25 mm. It is obvious that the difference between the two is really big. BTW, where can I find this mounting plate for the fun-42?

[RC-Monster Mike]

BK has them. I ordered one to try out just for this purpose. My money says it will work perfectly for this application. I have the adapter in my hands-it looks like it will fit a few different motor and allow them to mount to a normal 540 mounting space.

[captain harlock]

How much will it cost if I want to get it? this way I will not need to buy a twist-42 and I'll be just happy with the FUN-42. Oh, and one other thing: the thickness of the plate. How thick is it?

[RC-Monster Mike]

I think it costs around $10. It is about 3mm thick and will work for motors with mounting holes from 16mm-25mm .

[captain harlock]

Now I can try the fun-42 without the mounting plate as long as I can keep the B4 out of crashing since the motor will surely move a bit, because it is mounted thruogh one screw and that will strip the spur gear as usual.