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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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05.30.2007, 02:16 PM
Yes... ESC mounted to the flat side and the fans on the other. There are screw holes to mount dual 40mm fans on the finned side of the heatsink.
The nice thing about the mount is that its thick enought that you can add extra 3mm screw holes anywhere you need them to mount it anywhere you need it. Ive added screw hols in a couple of mine to make for clean and simple mounting.
I have fournd that the thermal epoxy isnt needed. Arctic silver thermal paste and a couple zip ties do the trick for me. Once the arctic sliver sets after a week and creats a soft bond to help keep it from sliding around also. But the zip ties have been enough for me.
Mounting the fan under the chassis plate is convienient, but the fans dont last very long mounted top side down like that. One big jump and the blades pop right off. See if you can come up with a configuration that puts the fans on their side. or at least at an angle rather than flat.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
Last edited by jhautz; 05.30.2007 at 02:18 PM.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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05.30.2007, 02:23 PM
thanks Jhautz, I was figuring a couple washers under thwe fans would allow some movement of the fan blades without contact
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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05.30.2007, 02:33 PM
Its not the contact on the plate that the problem. Tha fan baldes are only pressed onto a shaft and when you land the fan blades pop off from the force of the landing.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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05.31.2007, 12:34 AM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Cartwheels
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Thank you Cartwheels, Do you know if JB Weld will work? I got it handy and use it for everything
Edit; Never mind, I checked and it contains iron powder and will not work
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
Last edited by crazyjr; 05.31.2007 at 12:45 AM.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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05.31.2007, 11:31 PM
they came in today and look smaller than i thought, they look big in the pics. I guess pics add 15 pounds after all, too bad its not in good heatsink;). while i wait for the heatsinks, I will try one on the esc plate i made for the revo with Emaxx tranny. play around with settings and light driving and see how it does. thanks for the advise guys. Next question, What Neu motor should i get? My Gmaxx has UE diffs and a slipperential, my G2R has an EMaxx trannywith steel idler and upgraded stock diffs. My aim is for bashing and racing with speeds comparable to nitros
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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05.31.2007, 11:40 PM
I assume you'll be running 4s? If so, the 1512 2.5d (kv=2000) or 1515 with a similar kv; like the 1515 1y (kv=2200) or the 1515 2.5d (kv=1700).
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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05.31.2007, 11:47 PM
well, I want one that is a little flexable. I will start at 4s for tests and till i get the heatsinks, probably stick to 4s for racing, But i'd like to go 5s every once in a while for kicks, probably stick to 4s mostly though
Actually two motors, but not sure how the difference in the two trucks will effect motor selection
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
Last edited by crazyjr; 05.31.2007 at 11:50 PM.
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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05.31.2007, 11:50 PM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by crazyjr
well, I want one that is a little flexable. I will start at 4s for tests and till i get the heatsinks, probably stick to 4s for racing, But i'd like to go 5s every once in a while for kicks, probably stick to 4s mostly though
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Then get the 1512/2.5D. (2000kv) Great on 4s for the track and can easilly handle the 5s for bahing with a llittle more speed.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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05.31.2007, 11:54 PM
thanks, can it be got with a smooth can? I got one truck with a transmission and don't want to dremel a 240+ motor
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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05.31.2007, 11:57 PM
You'll probably have to email Mike for a smooth can 1512 2.5d. If he doesn't happen to have one laying around, he'll have to order it...
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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05.31.2007, 11:58 PM
ok thanks, sounds like the motor i need. now to order up
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
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RC-Monster Mod
Offline
Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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06.01.2007, 01:05 AM
Yes they come in smooth can and shouldnt be that hard to get. I have 2 of the 1512/2.5d motors, both of them are smooth can.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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06.01.2007, 06:14 PM
I wasn't sure exactly which to get so got both and figured i'd ask before using them. One is called super thermal silver compound, and the other is called high density thermal compound. The super thermal is called artic silver 5, and the high density is called cramique. I was just wondering which i should use.
I also found these and was wondering if they will work on the side of the Quark esc? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2216875&cp If not, no big, but thought they might help. and last Question before i start, I was looking at the instructions and see in the hard lipo and normal lipo the cutoff is 2.7v per cell, to change it you need to go to manual and that will mess up using the normal lipo. Will it be ok on 2.7v per cell
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
Last edited by crazyjr; 06.01.2007 at 07:23 PM.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 3,794
Join Date: May 2005
Location: georgia
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06.03.2007, 11:20 PM
got one of the quarks running in the G2R, just set radio to esc and tested to see if it would run good. WOW!!!! it seems to have more power than the mamba, I crushed a diff in 5 minutes, it was upgraded with integy cups and cases. Since the upgrade i have hammered it hard and they seemed good, till the quark. I am running the same setup as with the mamba, 9XL and 5s, I didn't set anything except for the esc to radio. I am impressed, All i need now is the rc monster heatsink, a V2 slipperential and a set of 1/8 diffs and she'll be perfect. I may get a new chassis as well, this one is scratched up and bent in a few places
Work because i gotta, play because i wanna
People here hate Nitro, I love it. I start it, run it about 50 ft from me and it dies, I go after it. Perfect exercise
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