Comparisons on some brushless controllers!!!

[crazyjr]

Originally Posted by BrianG

You can change this by reducing the throttle EPA and increasing the reverse EPA. Of course, the trigger throw doesn't change, but the signal would be more equal. Would need to have the ESC reprogrammed though.

The traxxas radio's don't have the epa adjustments, I'm not worried I think i'll leave it alone for a bit

[BrianG]

Yeah, but isn't there a 70/30 and 50/50 switch?

[lutach]

Just came back from running the truck with the MGM 16016-3S. The MGM is silky smooth. I only have to change the brake delay and the freewheel. It took a good second or so for the brakes to kick in. I ran a little over 5 minutes as well. The only thing I noticed is right where the power wires connect to the ESC, it ripped the shrink wrap. I also noticed that the motor got really hot. The batteries were just warm and so was the ESC. I put the batteries on the charger right now and it showed 11.41V. The data shows that the MGM was a little more efficient than the MM. Next I will try the Schulze future-18.97KWF.

[crazyjr]

How did you get 167 amps? If thats a Mr constructor truck, Does it have a center diff? or, is it like the TC3 (spur towards the rear)?

[lutach]

Originally Posted by crazyjr

How did you get 167 amps? If thats a Mr constructor truck, Does it have a center diff? or, is it like the TC3 (spur towards the rear)?

That is a Mr. Constructor truck and the spur is a lot like the TC3 in the rear, but Mr. C put a slipper clutch there as well. Awesome truck. Here are 2 videos of it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6duAnWLQlJY (Forgot the crystal LOL)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpe_frO--Vw (That's my daughter playing soccer with her uncle, she's a ball hugger LOL)

The 167A are just spikes from full throttle. The batteries that I'm using are amazing. They are 25C rated and can handle 30C without a sweet and 50C bursts. I know it is similar to TP and FP, but with a big difference, they don't puff. They run cooler and deliver the power much better. I will be getting the 5000mAh packs hopefully by Wed.

[nativepaul]

what cells are those?

[crazyjr]

Originally Posted by lutach

That is a Mr. Constructor truck and the spur is a lot like the TC3 in the rear, but Mr. C put a slipper clutch there as well. Awesome truck.

Thats what i figured. I got mine in a Kyosho twinforce with a 2250 and 19/51 gearing, Even with 6s i can't get more than 124 amps with a center diff

[lutach]

The Schulze future-18.97KWF ran awful. Only 9 seconds and it stopped. Lets just say it has a little heating issue. One good thing I should mention, it is as smooth as the MGM on start ups.

Originally Posted by crazyjr

Thats what i figured. I got mine in a Kyosho twinforce with a 2250 and 19/51 gearing, Even with 6s i can't get more than 124 amps with a center diff

Are you using the eagletree? I too have not been able to go beyond 124 amps with the eagle tree, IIRC it is only rated for 100 amps. I don't think that lutach is using an eagletree but some other power analyzer....


Bye

[lutach]

Originally Posted by cemetery gates

Are you using the eagletree? I too have not been able to go beyond 124 amps with the eagle tree, IIRC it is only rated for 100 amps. I don't think that lutach is using an eagletree but some other power analyzer....


Bye

I'm using a BNB Products DPR-II-150. It is rated for 150, but it's reading beyond that all the time. Blaine from BNB also said, "The best way to measure high current is to add a calibrated shunt across the DPR's current sensor." Which I have no idea what it means.

[crazyjr]

Originally Posted by cemetery gates

Are you using the eagletree? I too have not been able to go beyond 124 amps with the eagle tree, IIRC it is only rated for 100 amps. I don't think that lutach is using an eagletree but some other power analyzer....


Bye

Yeah, a micro model

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by lutach

I'm using a BNP Products DPR-II-150. It is rated for 150, but it's reading beyond that all the time. Blaine from BNP also said, "The best way to measure high current is to add a calibrated shunt across the DPR's current sensor." Which I have no idea what it means.

What exactly is a DPR-II-150? Any links?

A shunt is simply a very low and very precise resistor placed in series between the source and the load. Usually looks like a thick wire. When current flows through it, a small voltage drop is generated, which can be measured with a simple voltmeter. The trouble is selecting the right size shunt value so that you can get a good reading, yet small enough not to suck up too much of your voltage. And then there is the power dissipation factor. I wouldn't want to drop more than 0.1v at 200A. Even at 0.1v and 200A, the shunt would have to be rated for at least 20w.

BTW: Eagletree does make an add-on sensor that measures up to 300A, but isn't explicitly said to be compatible with the micro e-logger. IIRC, it is for the other recorder unit.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by BrianG

What exactly is a DPR-II-150? Any links?

A shunt is simply a very low and very precise resistor placed in series between the source and the load. Usually looks like a thick wire. When current flows through it, a small voltage drop is generated, which can be measured with a simple voltmeter. The trouble is selecting the right size shunt value so that you can get a good reading, yet small enough not to suck up too much of your voltage. And then there is the power dissipation factor. I wouldn't want to drop more than 0.1v at 200A. Even at 0.1v and 200A, the shunt would have to be rated for at least 20w.

BTW: Eagletree does make an add-on sensor that measures up to 300A, but isn't explicitly said to be compatible with the micro e-logger. IIRC, it is for the other recorder unit.

Brian,

It is BNB Products, I typed BNP. Here is the link: http://www.bnbproducts.com/

I have to admit, I was a little scared trying my Schulze 18.97KWF. Good thing it only thermaled. I reset it and it is working fine.

[BrianG]

lol, no wonder I couldn't find it! Judging by how it's built, it looks like adding a shunt across the solder points of the red wires should work. Although, you'd have to know the value of the existing shunt so that you calculate the total resistance (both shunts would be in parallel). The easiest way to do this would be to find out what the existing one is and get another one (maybe even from BNB?). Then, all you'd have to do is mentally multiply whatever reading you get by two to get the real current.

[lutach]

I see. Man I wish I had gone to Electronic Engineering School.