1/16 Mini E-Revo - Top Speed Build - Page 4 - RC-Monster Forums

Over_revO · 10.18.2009, 06:26 PM

Thats a very good news Kazuaki :)
I will wait and see what kind of speed you will get out of it.

150$ is a lot of money for an incomplete kit, and even if the chassis was complete. But it is now available for everyone so now i retire my comment , even though it was not that much of a big issue for me, just a comment i should have not posted...
was not trying to start anything.... i apologize if it look like that :)

Im sure you will sell them without trouble.

Cant wait to hear about your results

:)

kazuaki · 10.18.2009, 06:34 PM

Over_revO, I'm just playing around...definitely not upset

suicideneil · 10.18.2009, 07:11 PM

Yeah, I know what you were trying to say too- its all a case of technicalities really, but it depends how technical you want to get..

Have you thought about applying the same design to a full size revo? That would be a thing of beauty for sure...

killajb · 10.18.2009, 11:12 PM

Kind of perplexing to hear less-than-positive remarks on your work Kaz..

I applaud you for "going there" to see what the heck's gonna happen. My mini-revo is all tricked out with off-the-shelf stuff. So what.. I guess if someone else bought all the same stuff and set it up the same way, they'd get close to the same top speed. Where's the braggin' rights in that??

TexasSP · 10.19.2009, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Over_revO

Thats a very good news Kazuaki :)
I will wait and see what kind of speed you will get out of it.

150$ is a lot of money for an incomplete kit, and even if the chassis was complete. But it is now available for everyone so now i retire my comment , even though it was not that much of a big issue for me, just a comment i should have not posted...
was not trying to start anything.... i apologize if it look like that :)

Im sure you will sell them without trouble.

Cant wait to hear about your results

:)

For a single run machine shop price which is obviously what he has posted the 150 for the part is not bad at all. If it were a production run type thing I would expect better pricing but it is what it is.

kazuaki · 10.19.2009, 11:40 AM

In all honesty, I set that price and the long lead time hoping nobody would want one

It's just not the business I want to be in. Let me make some speed runs on this and verify that it does what it's supposed to. Then I will start a new thread gauging interest. As most of you know, the price would be partially determined by the number of units. The pieces are cut on a waterjet, so the setup work is minimal. Of course, the designed needs to be compensated for his efforts as well

I should have some preliminary spped runs done this week, now that my ESC is finally here.

MetalMan · 10.19.2009, 01:20 PM

Just keep in mind that if you do intend to sell the chassis you get in touch with Mike. It's one thing to sell the ocasional item, but it's another to sell a product of yours.

kazuaki · 10.19.2009, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetalMan

Just keep in mind that if you do intend to sell the chassis you get in touch with Mike. It's one thing to sell the ocasional item, but it's another to sell a product of yours.

Absolutely. This forum and it's member have been good to me. The last thing I would want to do is anything to hurt the forum. I promise

kazuaki · 10.30.2009, 01:43 AM

So, it's been a while without an update. I've been busy breaking parts

I destroyed a transmission and multiple rear-center driveshafts.

I hope this solves my issue with breaking rear driveshafts...

I started with a set of the new Integy steel center driveshafts. I'm not thrilled about the quality of them, but they are the only metal ones available. My chassis is 40mm longer in the rear than stock, so the driveshaft needed to be extended quite a bit. I first cut the Integy driveshaft in half. Next, I bought some 6061 aluminum tubing that has an inside diameter of 3.9 mm. The Integy driveshafts are 4 mm in diameter, so I drilled the center of the tube out just slightly, so that is would slide over the cut ends of the driveshaft. I made sure the fit was VERY tight. I then used a large vise to press the ends into the tube. At this point, the assembly felt very strong and I think it would have been fine, but I decided to take it a step further to be sure. I drilled a small hole at each end all the way through the tube and center shaft and drove a wheel hex pin through it. Finally, I covered it in heatshrink, just for looks.

What do you think?

PBO · 01:49 AM

Looks freakin nice!!!

I think you just solved a problem for me that I'm having on my 8T as well

LiqrSicc · 10.30.2009, 01:48 AM

Nice work Kaz! Hope this stops the breakage so we can see that 100mph mark

Semi Pro · 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kazuaki

So, it's been a while without an update. I've been busy breaking parts

I destroyed a transmission and multiple rear-center driveshafts.

I hope this solves my issue with breaking rear driveshafts...

I started with a set of the new Integy steel center driveshafts. I'm not thrilled about the quality of them, but they are the only metal ones available. My chassis is 40mm longer in the rear than stock, so the driveshaft needed to be extended quite a bit. I first cut the Integy driveshaft in half. Next, I bought some 6061 aluminum tubing that has an inside diameter of 3.9 mm. The Integy driveshafts are 4 mm in diameter, so I drilled the center of the tube out just slightly, so that is would slide over the cut ends of the driveshaft. I made sure the fit was VERY tight. I then used a large vise to press the ends into the tube. At this point, the assembly felt very strong and I think it would have been fine, but I decided to take it a step further to be sure. I drilled a small hole at each end all the way through the tube and center shaft and drove a wheel hex pin through it. Finally, I covered it in heatshrink, just for looks.

What do you think?

it may hold up, it would have been much better welded and balanced

kazuaki · 10.30.2009, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Semi Pro

it would have been much better welded and balanced

If I had the ability to do either of those things, I may have gone that route. Being that this shaft is connecting a 1/16 scale tranny to a 1/16 scale rear diff, I doubt the driveshaft is going to be the weak link anymore

Semi Pro · 10.30.2009, 06:55 AM

thats very true, i tend to over engineer things

but i figured that the ballance would be very important because of the size of the bearings

have you figured out how fast the shaft will be turning when the truck hit 100mph?

honestly i would have something made for it, atleast protect your lipos from it with a sheild if it does brake......but the if it does fail around 100mph it could total the truck..............see we engineers take things to far

oh and i my have my math wrong (its 5am lol) but that drive shaft is turning at 23k rpm at 100mph........... thats why balance is a huge factor............how are your bearings?

Rivermaxx · 10.30.2009, 10:45 AM

Wow! kinda reminds me of my g-maxx high speed build but yours has alot higher power to weight ratio. Cant wait to see the results. Are you going to the isc event in fontana? I have a brand new low downforce jconcept wing I will not be using it has pretty decent size vertical stabilizers. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRAD4&P=7