HOW TO: Quark Mod / LSP Conversion *PIC OVERLOAD WARNING*

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by A4DTM

well w/ no clue on what to order.. I went ahead and ordered this stuff:

AMAIN:
GS Racing Pure Silicone Shock Oil 50 Wt
Mugen Silicone Diff Oil 50,000wt
RMV PBR Extra Hard Progressive Rate Truggy Spring Set (LSP, ST-R)
Hot Bodies Front/Rear Lower Suspension Pins (4), (Lightning Series)
Racers Edge Kyosho MP7.5/MP777 Front Hinge Pin Brace

TOWER:
Ofna MT3 Splits White Wheel (4)

MIKE:
Neu 1515 2.5d/F Sensorless Brushless Motor

my 1512 2.5d smooth can is for sale now btw..

I run 50,000 in the center dif on my mbx5 & the tires dont swell at all.

I installed my new hinge pin, and kyosho 777 front suspension arm brace/holder, got 50k weight in the center diff. I need to rebuild the two front shocks, and put on the stiffer springs all around.
but my big news, is it's now got a 1515 2.5d/f :).
I'm waiting for the MT3 rims, and I'm going to mount the stock tires on them, with fiberglass tape, and a few tubes of shoogoo. I'll shoot some video tommorow or Sunday.
happy weekend guys.

Good for you. My 2.5d should be here Wednesday, along with my Quark.

[Patrick]

I ordered my 1515 2.5d a few days ago and should be recieving it in 4 or 5 days.
I also want to use it on 5s with a Quark and in a 1/8th truggy (Thunder Tiger ST-1 Pro), so I'm interested to know how it works for you, and maybe learn from your mistakes ;) if there are any.
It will probably be a few weeks though before mine is finished.

Patrick, I am looking forward to getting the new setup. I'm running a Losi Muggy and it is quite a bit heavier than most truggies, so everything I've tried so far, hasn't performed to my expectations. I've gone through a few Mamba Max controllers and I recently got a Compro. The Compro may or may not be working properly. All I can say is I don't like the Compro. I'm hoping that the Quark will do what I need it to.

I'm sure that I'll post something once I get it wired up.

it works good.
I ran 14/46 gearing, and it wasn't as fast as with the 1512 2.5d, but it had a little more torque, but it's hard to judge, because I also used the 50k center diff fluid w/ the 1515, so it wheelies fairly easily now.
but, temps were VERY good. the batteries got warm, not much over ambient though, the motor was just a little warmer, and the quark/heatsink were only as warm as the batteries. it was only a 7 minute run, but when I used the 1512, the motor and controller would got this warm idleing lol (not really, but it got very hot, very quickly).

finally the motor moved a little, and stripped the diff gear. 3rd time this has happened.. more threadlock on the motor screws?

speeds are I'm only guessing, but 35ish? going up on pinion a bit will get my speed back :)
I'll post a video later tonight.

Are you using loctite on the screws going into the motor? I don't think that's a good idea. I may be wrong, but I'd hate to risk any of that stuff seeping down into the bearings.

I don't remember if you mentioned it, but what battery config are you running? I'm running an 8XL, which has a KV rating similar to that of the 2.5d, on 5S and it is nuts. I'm talking uncontrollable at full throttle, geared 12/46 with MT tires. I'm almost thinking that I should go with an even higher turn motor, maybe a 1500kv.

[jhautz]

looks like 4s TrueRc 8000mah from the photos.

2x 5s1p 4000mah packs in parallel.

Those should do nicely. It should be borderline stupid fast.

oh, and I didn't loctite the motor screws yet.. dunno what else to do to keep the motor in place though.

my video from today:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=ldDo9bDGTlk

Here's how I strapped the tires to prevent ballooning.. not tested yet, but I'll find out how it works later today.

you need:
tires, foams, and rims
roll of fiberglass tape
big tube of shoe-goo
piece of scrap plastic

wash the tires in warm soapy water first, flip the tires inside out, then wrap a piece of fiberglass tape around the tire. I wrapped the tires twice around.



Run a very heavy bead of shoe-goo around the tire. the more goo the better. (I ended up making the bead about 3x as what's in the picture)


Use a scrap piece of plastic to spread the shoe-goo, and push it into the tape's square holes.



After the goo's dried, flip the tires right side out, put the foam back in, and glue em to your rims.



the end. I'll let you guys know how it works when I get done racing.

ok, help. I didn't race today, as my batts were dead..

the pack's voltages are 14.89v, and 14.40v
they're both below the 3v/cell cutoff I had set on the quark, but the quark never shut down.. I just could tell I had no power, so figured they were low..

now, when I hook them up to my astroflight 109's, it detects them as 4s packs. should I just let them charge a bit, then disconnect and retry, and see if it detects them as 5s packs?

*edit
nevermind, after about 3 minutes, the voltage is around 17.5v, and the charger's readout changed to reflect a 5s pack. but.. how good is the quark's lvc, if it kept letting me run, when both packs were below 15v?

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by A4DTM

now, when I hook them up to my astroflight 109's, it detects them as 4s packs. should I just let them charge a bit, then disconnect and retry, and see if it detects them as 5s packs?

Yep, that's the only way to revive packs using the AF109.

[BrianG]

Are you sure you set the LVC on the Quark right?

Also, if you hook up a pack that has some runtime already on it, it could fool the ESC into thinking it is a lower pack. For instance, a 5s pack at 3.36v/cell could fool the ESC into thinking there was a fully charged 4s pack attached. Both would be 16.8v.