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ultimate FLM pede project
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jadesportster
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ultimate FLM pede project - 02.21.2008, 12:19 PM

This is my first post! I'm so fortunate to have found support from such an awesome forum as this is my first build.

The stock VXL chassis didnt last long with the 3s 11.1 venom lipos I'm running, so I'm spending money like it's going out of style. You could say I'm addicted to this RC hobby! I've got the ultimate FLM pede chassis kit in the mail along with some other random parts-

Setup looks something like this:

extra spur gears (stock 86 tooth)
aluminum shocks
Locktite for the FLM chassis!
alum idler gear (since I'm opening up the tranny anyway)
Pro line 72 chevy body
masher 2000's w/ RPM bully wheels
RPM front bumper
RPM rear wheelie bar (beefed up with model airplane wheels)
et al...

A few questions are churning:

Will the stock VXL springs work well with the aluminum big bore traxxas shocks I bought because of the extra weight and more abuse from bashing? What aftermarket spring types should I run for durability and protection of the shock/chassis parts?

Will aluminum 12 mm hubs strip my plastic wheels or should i stay with the plastic ones?

I dont think they are included in the FLM kit, so should I run aluminum caster blocks and bearing carriers or the stock plastic bits(as a point of failure for crashes) I've heard that it's easier to get bent king pins out of plastic rather than prying them out of aluminum.

Are there any mods that I have not considered?

Pics are on the way. Stay tuned.
   
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snellemin
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02.21.2008, 01:46 PM

I used RPM bearing carriers, as they survive all my highspeed wipeouts. If you get the FLM tranny, it's wise to get heavier springs like the ones Trinity offers. The Aluminum hexes will not strip your plastic rims, unless they are allready stretch from a previous crash for example. RPM bumpers just look goofy with the FLM setup and will break anyways in a highspeed crash. Newera has good skidplates and wheeliebars. Swami is another option for wheeliebars. Stick the steel idler gear in there. The aluminium cost too much and sharpens up quick with a high speed brushless. Mike sells the hardend Steel ones as well. I don't use any loctite on my setup and no screws have come out.


6 KiloWatt A123 Racer
GTP-Pletty Big Maxximum+RX8. GTP-C50-6L Hacker+RX8. CRT.5-Pro4+ZTW esc.
24s2p EVG SX 49.6mph Ebike.
18s4p Raptor 60mph Ebike. 11.5KW
   
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jadesportster
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02.21.2008, 04:11 PM

I dont think caster blocks or bearing carriers come with the ultimate FLM pede kit I purchased. The RPM bearing carriers are plastic, right?

Will these T/E maxx springs from trinity work with the big bore aluminum Traxxas shocks I bought?

http://cgi.ebay.com/T-Maxx-Heavy-Dut...QQcmdZViewItem
   
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snellemin
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02.21.2008, 04:53 PM

Those are the springs I use. The RPM carries are plastic, and don't snap like the Traxxas ones.


6 KiloWatt A123 Racer
GTP-Pletty Big Maxximum+RX8. GTP-C50-6L Hacker+RX8. CRT.5-Pro4+ZTW esc.
24s2p EVG SX 49.6mph Ebike.
18s4p Raptor 60mph Ebike. 11.5KW
   
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jadesportster
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02.26.2008, 12:05 AM

Update:

My FLM stamped chassis kit came in the mail today and after 3 long hours, I've got the front arms, casters, bulk, front chassis brace, front tower, front skidplate, servo, & links all on the chassis. Springs for my big bore shocks are in the mail as well as an alum idler and 86 tooth spur gear.

I started looking at the tranny, rear skid plate, rear arms, CVD kit and all the screws and bolts----the project is starting to look a bit daunting. The transmission looks to be the most difficult part as I've never built a truck before. Without a step by step instruction guide it feels a bit like cave exploration without a flashlight. I've got pics from other builds online, as well as the stock VXL schematic, but there are some variences in the FLM parts-- Like how the rear tower links to the chassis via the tranny using the cross brace.

Questions:

One funny thing I found is that I have no clue where the included antennae holder mounts on the chassis as it does not thread into any of the holes on the extd pede chassis.

I'm also not sure if the stock black bracket that the esc sits on top of should be used for mounting on the FLM chassis.

I've got the servo in the chassis, but where in the wide world of sports does the receiver mount? Should I zip tie it to the shock tower above the servo or place it behind the servo standing upright similar to stock VXL setup? There is only 1 hole on the receiver to mount a hex screw through...
   
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lincpimp
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02.26.2008, 12:45 AM

May I suggest to use jato spur gears, and 32p emaxx pinions. They will hold up alot better than the 48p stock gears.
   
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jadesportster
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02.26.2008, 11:00 AM

What size jato spur should I run?

Snell--

Is that blue shrink tube covering the pins on your CVD in the picture above?

I'm starting on the rear assembly/tranny today. *FINGERS CROSSED!*
   
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snellemin
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02.26.2008, 12:40 PM

Jade,

that's the jato driveshaft. The blue booth just rips off from the crazy rpm's. The stock shafts use to twist on my, whereas the jato ones holds up great.


6 KiloWatt A123 Racer
GTP-Pletty Big Maxximum+RX8. GTP-C50-6L Hacker+RX8. CRT.5-Pro4+ZTW esc.
24s2p EVG SX 49.6mph Ebike.
18s4p Raptor 60mph Ebike. 11.5KW
   
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Updated with pics!
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jadesportster
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Updated with pics! - 02.28.2008, 11:18 PM

It took 3 days of tinkering, but my first FLM build is complete.







The light has been really harsh here in NC, but I'm going to attempt some more shots this weekend.

Cheers,
   
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BL_RV0
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02.29.2008, 11:04 AM

WOW! what camera do you have?


Get me back into RC!
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jadesportster
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02.29.2008, 12:46 PM

Nikon Pro body SLR and cannon 18-55 lens.

My photographer has a D3 pro body and actually knows what he's doing. More pics up this weekend if the light holds out!

Jade
   
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