Look at my broken gears!

[JOHNNYMAXXIMA]

I finaly tore my maxx apart tonight to see what happened to my diffs and this is what I found.
I am running the FLM Combo Bulks and the FLM diff cup with stock gears (obviously). I thought that would have been strong enough but I guess not.
Do you think I installed the gears improperly or is it just because of the torque of dual brushless?
Everything felt nice and snug and moved freely when I installed it.
Sory for the poor pic but if you look close you can see all the little metal chunks surounding the gears.
Thanks.

[nbcaznmaster]

lol, looks like u rmotor was hungry.

[Serum]

get the UE's and say goodbye to the diffproblems..

Did you shimmed them?

[Gustav]

Did the shafts move in the cup/eat into the metal or did the gears just fail?

I used some cheap hot racing diff cups once on the LST and the shafts ate into the rubbish alloy and lunched the gears.I'm assuming the FLM cups are much stronger/harder than this?

[coolhandcountry]

I had same problems john. I went to the ue diffs and had no more problems. I even ripped the teeth off the pinion as well. Just something for you to consider. I just wished I hadn't done like you did. You buy the diff cups and gears and the aluminum flm combo bulk. Then you find out your motor is stronger than the diffs. For a few bucks more you could have had the 1/8 hybird bulks and gears and no problems.

[RC-Monster Mike]

The problem is usually wear. Whe the diffs are first built and shimmed, they are almost bulletproof, but the parts wear, and when the shafts get some play, in conjunction with serious power, they fail. I have never blown a fresh diff inside aluminum cups and cases, but the ones I have had fail are always worn(I notice the wear, but get too lazy to rebuild/re-shim them and they eventually fail).
Dual brushless 14+ pound trucks can eat a diff up pretty quick! 1/8 diffs is really the best solution for this beast, John.

[JOHNNYMAXXIMA]

You see, this is why we should always listen to Mike. He originaly told me to get the 1/8 diffs, but I didn't want to spend the few more bucks to get them. And now look, I am spending a few more bucks, and I still don't have 1/8 diffs!:o I never have claimed to be a good listner.:D

So there really is nothing that I can do with the current setup that I have to make it stronger, is there? If I want to get 1/8, I would have to get a hole new setup?
Thanks.

[Serum]

You need the 1/8th bulkless of FLM, or the UE diffs, with FLM or GA bulks.

[squeeforever]

i would stick to the bulkless.

[JOHNNYMAXXIMA]

So to go the cheap route, I can just put the stock gears back in, shim them properly and keep my fingers crossed? I did not have them shimmed last time.
Thanks.

[squeeforever]

i would personally just put it back to gether and run it while i was waiting on some 1/8th bulkless.

[coolhandcountry]

Yep the cheap route will hold for a little longer. You may consider the 1/8 diffs though.

[RC-Monster Mike]

A new set of diff gears is only $9 or so, so for $20 and some shimming, they will last you for a while. Just check them periodically for slop(if the drive cup wobbles excessively, it is time to rebuild/re shim). Eventually, the answer will be 1/8 diffs, as I am sure you will tire of the diff building after a few times(though a newly shimmed fresh set of gears will last a while).

[mmdooley]

Thanks for recommending the 1/8, Mike. I was going to get the standers. I am waiting for my 1/8 to come in. Sorry about the breakdown JOHNNYMAXXIMA. Hope you get back going soon.

[RC-Monster Mike]

1/8 diffs = set it and forget it! Stock gears with aluminum cups and cases work decent, but the 1/8 gears aren't much more $$ in the end, and you can tune with different weight oils, too. I still run the stockers in some trucks, and have even thought about modding some diff cups to accept diff oil, which should make them last a bit longer as well(lot less wear). For a truly thoughtless diff setup, 1/8 is really the only answer, though.