Revo+Tekno+MMM Combo = problem

[YogyBrushless]

hey guys i`ve put this here cause its related to all things mentioned in the topic. so i`m doing my revo (2.5) conversion using a tekno conversion and a MMM 2200 combo. the problem is that the clutch assembly sits too far out that its touching the slipper. see pic and notice how big the gap is between the mount and flywheel is, and the set-screw is at the end of the flat there no more room to push the elektri clutch thingy back towards the mount !



so what can i do to fix this problem? please help

Yogy

[Matthew_Armeni]

There are a couple of things it could be. First, I believe that the motor shaft on the Castle motors is longer than most of the motors out there. Is the elektri-clutch all the way down on the shaft? If not, push it down further, the set-screw for the clutch should be covered up by the front plate when setup correctly (there is a slot in the plate to access the set-crew). If the elektri-clutch is all the way down, you will have to cut or grind off the end of the motor shaft until it fits.
Also, if you send in your current elektri-clutch along with two dollars for shipping you can get the updated 1 piece 2-shoe clutch adapter. It is a lighter setup that spins truer and provides a cleaner looking setup. More details here.

[lincpimp]

Get some long shank pinions and be done with it! Nothing against the clutch thingy, but i doubt it is necessary with the MMM combo... Just extra stuff to have to worry about, IMO. If you ran a smaller motor, or had cogging issues, the cltch thingy is good...

[Finnster]

+2 to ditching the clutch. Lose the complication, gain reverse and motor braking.

If you need more of a flat, you may need to make one w/ a dremel or file. If the shaft is hitting the end of the clutch, then you cut off shaft or ditch clutch.

[phatmonk]

I ditched the clutch and used Mikes motormount in my Slayer.I did use mech. brakes though.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by phatmonk

I ditched the clutch and used Mikes motormount in my Slayer.I did use mech. brakes though.

One can also add some spacers between the motor plate and the mount. That will put the motor closer to the spur, and std pinions can be used them.

[George16]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

One can also add some spacers between the motor plate and the mount. That will put the motor closer to the spur, and std pinions can be used them.

I agree. I did it like this and yes, get rid of the elektri-crap and use pinions instead .

[YogyBrushless]

thanks for the replys and solutions guys, spacers and small screws are hard to find here so scrap that, normal or long shank pinions means a new purchase and a wait of around 10 days to 2 weeks to get the stuff here (Kuwait).
i think i`m gonna grind the shaft a bit and use the same setup besides i have from 15 teeth to 20 teeth pinion it would be a waste of money to throw them away.
realy scared about grinding but here goes nothin


thanks guys

[Arct1k]

Just go slow and keep the shaft cool with a damp sponge - Also put motor in a bag and poke shaft through to stop rubbish getting into bearings.

[YogyBrushless]

hey guys i`ve done it, but with first full throttle hit on the trigger the setscrew got lose. i`m trying again i did more grinding and made sure its more flat now and i have put more blue threadlock and i`m gonna leave it until tomorrow to cure i`ll keep u guys posted.

yousef

[YogyBrushless]

got lose again , one more try

[bdebde]

Replace that set screw

[YogyBrushless]

Originally Posted by bdebde

Replace that set screw

how would that help? explain please?

[BrianG]

Since bdebde is offline, I can think of a couple reasons:

- Even for the same 3mm screw, some are "off" by a tad, so your current set screw could be a hair smaller than it should be. This would cause the lock-tite to have a harder time to hold it since there are gaps instead of a snug fit.

- Simply worn. In another thread MetalMan made the observation that the bottom edges get worn over time and is easier to work its way out.

How hot does the assembly get? Too much heat will soften lock-tite to the point it is doing little good. If the clutch is slipping excessively, it will create a lot of heat.

One more thing; in your first picture, I see a lot of empty threads. Maybe get a longer set screw so more threads are "biting" at once. If you don't have any, you could probably get by with a regular 3mm screw to see if it works.

[George16]

Grind the end of the setscrew flat to allow for a bigger "bite" area.