Jato Conversion

Hello everyone I am in the process of converting my Jato over to brushless since I am getting tired of nitro. I have been researching other brushless Jato's on the site and still have a couple of qustions. For starters I have already converted it over to the single speed and cut off the back protion of the gas tank/receiver box holder to keep the stock servo mount and my New Era brace. My goal for this truck is to not be a top speed truck but a asphalt only race truck. In its nitro form, btw was a 3.3, raced agaist GTP's and actually beat them several times and would handle unlike any stadium I have driven. Through research the prob with the brushless Jato's seems to be grip/handling but I think I can solve that. I am up in the air about what motor/battery combo I wnat to run. The esc is definitly gonna be a mamba max though. My two battery options are the 2s True RC 15C 6400, 96A continuous and 128A burst. I use that in my 6L pede and it runs great. Other choice is the 2s C-Tech 35C 5200, 182A continuous, 364A burst, that I found in the RC-Monster store. I want to the truck to run between 40-45 mph and with a 20 pinion and 36 revo spur gear i was able to get that with the 60mm Medusa 3100, or a comparable Neu 1509/1506. So my questions are would the MM be able to take the high amp output of the C-Tech battery? Logic also tells me that even though both batteries are 2s the 35C one will give me more power and top end since it is a higher C rating and throwing more amps. So if that is true should I go with a lower Kv Neu 1509/1506? Heres pics of what Ive got so far and my planned layout.

[zeropointbug]

Go get a Neu 1506/3.5D at Impakt RC for $130 on sale right now, run it on 4s lipo, that's 40,000rpm, pretty good setup. The 3.5D is 2900kv, so you will want to run a 4s pack.

A True RC pack will do, but those C-Tech packs are really powerful and would work great. Significantly cheaper are Hyperion G3 packs, and are one of the best packs on the market right now.

Thanks for the reply. I also had this idea as well. Since I have to send in my mamba to Castle anyways to be fixed I could get a refurbished MMM for 100 and not have to worry about running that C-Tech pack in it and having it over heat. The 4s pack probably would be a nice set up but I dont want to spend 200 on a battery or the added weight of a 4s. With a 2s pack, motor and other electronics the truck weighs about the same as when it was nitro, and I really want to keep the weight as close as possible to that. Would the 1506 3.5d's temps be fine when geared 36 spur 20 pinion?

I did some more research and I have come up with this solution to a 4s set up. A Neu 1506 3d, 3400 kv, geared 54 spur 18 pinion gets me to 43 mph on 3s. The new battery I am looking at is the C-Tech 5300 3s 30C, 159A continuous, 318 burst. Im just afraid that a high power 4s pack in a Jato will be way to much power and make it uncontrollable to race. Thoughts/Opinions?

[BrianG]

lol, I run 3s 3.3Ah 30C Elite cells in my E-Jato running on a Castle 4600 motor. Temps are great and it runs perfectly fine. And that is geared for around 40mph with over 20 minutes of runtime. Of course, that's just tooling around so it will be a bit less running flat out or with lots of heavy stop and go use.

For a given gearing/speed, the higher voltage you go, the less current is required. So you don't need the same capacity as you would need with lower voltage. To give you an idea, my average power consumption is a little over 100w, with bursts around 600w. At 3s, that requires around 9A of average current draw. If I step up to 4s (with the appropriate kv motor and geared the same for the same approx power draw), that current would drop to under 7A, with bursts around 50-60A. So, the same capacity cells will last longer. You can play around with some numbers on this page to see more examples: http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_power.html

And if you plan to run 3s or higher on the MM, I would disable the BEC and use an external one. That alone will help a lot with temps. The internal one, being a linear regulator, simply heats up too much over 2s. So, it is worth it IMO to use an external BEC despite the added wiring needed.

My Elite 30C cells (from cheapbatterypacks.com) work really well. I've logged 145A bursts on those 3.3Ah cells (44C) in a different vehicle (CRT.5) and they still held 3.4v/cell. Not the cheapest cells though.

Gotcha i understand it a little bit better now. Is this the elite pack you use- http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/mai...0#EL3S-330030C, its the $90 one Im talking about, if its not a link to it would be awesome. Ive read about your Castle motor set up and it sounds sweet but I dont want to use a Castle motor though. A 4800 Kv medusa geared 58 14 on 3s gets teh speed I want. I also had the BEC idea to but like I said I have to send in my mamba to Castle to be fixed which will cost 50 and by time i get a fan do the BEC thing and after shipping; it just makes sense to me to get a refurbished mmm for 100 and not have to worry.