Mugen MBX5-T Conversion

Hey fellas =)

Picked up this truggy this morning, and got started this arvo on converting it... Happy with the progress, considering i only had a short time to work on it before the missus put her cranky pants on...

I usually do a full documentary with pics and all step by step, but was too lazy, and didn't have the time, so just have a couple pics to show the basic layout so far...

I pretty much copied gtxracer's setup, but am gonna be full time 4s lipo :)

I had to flip the front upper steering plate, so that i could move the front chassis brace to the right hand side of the centre shaft, as i needed clearance for the motor.

I placed the front brace slightly different here, already knowing he ran into problems at the servo... I hacked up some of the front chassis brace to clear the front centre dogbone and didn't touch the servo at all...

I have installed a couple posts to hold the lipos in place, and I also cut out a couple slots in the chassis for the velcro straps to pass through the chassis to keep the packs in place.

I also had to flip the centre diff round, and cut another slot for the diff gear to clear the chassis... This was just to make a little more room for my batteries mainly...

I have the right hand side battery 'standing' high, as it was just easier to get it into a nice, neat place - i am not concerned about the extra height on it... I am unsure if I should do the same on the left pack and bring it closer to the centre line, or if I should just keep it as is... What do you guys think??

I also cut the servo plates, and removed the radio box, as i wont need it.

I will get hold of a 17-1900kv motor for this one, and will run the Elektri-Clutch like the rc8 buggy. I also need to make some plates for the tekno motor mount for adjustability...

I am going to mount the Speed Passion 1/8 ESC in this one just above the steering servo.

The RX will go just in front of the steering servo on the mud guard, or next to the 'standing' lipo, also on the mud guard - will see when the arm is on the servo.

There is room for the transponder mount where it mounts normally in the stock position... i cut that part of the servo plate before i realised i could 'stand' the lipo up -lol-

Things to do before drive time are....

*Install the ESC
*Get a motor/make mount plates for tekno mount and install that
*Add radio gear and a 7955tg for steering... (the spektrum servo in the pics is just for mock up)
*Hack up a chopping board, then shape it and screw it to the bottom of the chassis - this is going to cover and protect the velcro straps on the underneath side of the chassis.

I thought i was gonna need battery trays, but looks like i worked my way around that one =)

So - enough talk - here are some pics of what i have so far...















this is my first truggy, and can't wait to see how it goes against te local nitros... They already are impressed at the buggy, so hopefully this knocks em over too, and hopefully converts some at the same time! :D

what do you guys think? :)

[sabongi]

looks good, but you sure there`s enough clearance on the rear arms for the battery?

[magman]

Looks nice...I am converting a mbx-5T as we speak. Yours looks nice. Just make sure those batts. don't move at ALL...or you will be in a heap of trouble. You may concider getting 2 batt. trays form here at RCM to sercure those up a bit. I always put the batts. into a custom tray which Mike makes for me that way the batts. will not move at all....peace of mind.

Thanks guys - It was just good timing that i happened to stumble across gtxracer's thread a day or 2 before i picked up the truggy... Originally i was gonna keep both packs to one side, and leave the motor and esc on the servo side, but i think i liked the layout of the packs side by side better - thanks gtx =D

There is heaps of clearance for the arms - they are up against the rear pivot blocks...

I dont think these packs will be moving anywhere - they are actually pretty solid for forward/back left/right movement with the posts i put in alone - the velcro mainly holds it down to the chassis...

Here's a clean shot without my mess on it....




I just wanna add one more post where the yellow circle is, and this will be solid as - i really dont think i will need battery trays... The red straight lines show where the packs are hard up against, and the red circles are where i have posts in place... The pack on the motor side is held in place mainly by that mudguard, but i cant do the same on the other side due to the diff being offset...



What are your thoughts on the batteries being upright or laid down flat?? Ya think the difference between them standing up or flat is pretty negligable?? I sorta wanna stand up the pack on the motor side too, but it's seriously so solid where it is, i dunno if it's worth moving it to match the other side.....

[magman]

If you can lay both down flat so much the better as far as cog goes. However, it probably won't make a huge difference in the long run.

The more i look at it, the more i keep thinking i should just leave it as it is... I really cant see the extra 10mm in height becoming an issue, and i doubt i would probably notice it anyway hehehe

With that pack standing, it brings the weight closer to centre i guess, which should help with the slight offset of the other pack/centre diff i guess...

I think i'm gonna get hold of some MBX6 big bores too =)

I just ordered the Tekno Motor Mount plates i needed, as that'll save me making some =) I also got the servo mounts aswell, as i may even stand the servo up... not sure yet... The speed passion esc is bloody massive - i wish they would hurry up and start compacting these 1/8 speedies down to a better size!!!

Hmmm.... i have 2 spare Mamba Maxx esc's.... Think i could get away with one of them on this with 4S and a 1700-1900kv Neu with a BEC???

[magman]

Castle is coming out w/the mm pro which is the size of the mm and can do up to 6s! It is in testing now so if you can wait a bit, I would try to get one of those...and it is less than the mm by a few$.

Dayum, sounds like it's exactly what I'm after! Will see how a mmm goes in there for the time being.. It may be a lot easier to mount than the speed passion :)

[magman]

I know a lot of us will be anxiously waiting for reviews on the mm pro....if they are good, and after the initial hick-ups are worked out, they will surely sell like hotcakes due to their size and versatility

[RC-Monster Mike]

If you are planning on using that clutch, your gonna need mechanical brakes. Also, what are the back side of the batt packs resting against? I don't see anything there? :)

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

If you are planning on using that clutch, your gonna need mechanical brakes.

y'know what? I didnt actually even think about that! -lol- Thanks for pointing that out mate, i'm glad i havent mounted the motor up yet, that's good tho, as i can change plans to suit the pinions i already have from you Mike =)

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Also, what are the back side of the batt packs resting against? I don't see anything there? :)

There's the rear pivot blocks? -lol- I have been thinking about that, and was gonna mount a strip of alum using the one screw and countersunk screws so it is flush instead of those button heads - if i use a thin strip, it'll give a lil more support up higher on the packs, rather than just the 8mm or so of pivot block there =) I'll get some pics tonight and it'll look better than it sounds -lol-

Hey, so i assume the slipperential is a direct drop in then, right? Do you recommend the 50t or 46t?? =)

[RC-Monster Mike]

46t Slipperential will drop right in (same size as stock center diff in the Mugen buggy and truggy). :)

I've been round a while, but never pay attn - Would i be correct in assuming the 50t would give me a tad more runtime? Is it also a direct drop in mate? I'm shooting moreso for runtime than anything... the local track here is over run by nitros and they normally run 30 minute mains...

I am just new to driving on a track, so speed and power is not so essential for me, and the track isn't that large either.

[RC-Monster Mike]

50t would require shimming to fit - the stock spur size is 46t(Mugen truggies have 4.6:1 diffs, so there is plenty of reduction already - 50t not needed).

ahh - no worries mate, thanks for the help =) Will be ordering it in the next couple weeks at some stage... have a few bills to pay and the motor to get still =)