slipper problem

My slipper diff arrived yesterday an I build it but the building didn't went smooth and at the end the diff is very tight and notchy. What should I do now? I have enough experience about diff building and sure every thing done right.I'm very disapponited:(

[cmac]

Try using the second gasket and see if the movement is better.

I tried the second gasket but it's still tight and notchy

[cmac]

I this might be a pain, but you might take it apart, and try to put the gears in a different order. What type of diff oil are you using? Hope that helps.
mike.

[RC-Monster Mike]

The extra gasket is almost never needed - the "2nd gasket" direction in the instructions was applicable with our older gaskets, which were much thinner. The diff shouldn't be "very tight and notchy", but it is normal for slight notchiness when brand new. The smaller o-rings on the cross shafts inside will also make the diff appear stiffer than a diff without these orings.

I didn't use the small o-rings. Are they necessary?
I use 15k diff oil.
If changing the gear places wouldn't work, can I try different brand (for example mugen) inner gears? I'm an international customer so the shipping time and expense will be much. I want to try everything I can before considering to send it back to let you look at it.

[cmac]

I used them and everything feels fine. I try to follow the instructions exactly so if there is a problem after that Mike will make it right. A lot of time went into developing this product. So I have to believe if the instructions tell you to do something then I do it. You might try to rebuild and this time try it with the o rings and I think it will work out better.
Good luck.

Mugen diffs have this little o-rings too but nobody is using them.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Swapping the gear positions inside shouldn't make much difference - Mugen gears are nearly identical and could very likely be substituted internally and I would be interested in the result, actually.
The "notchiness" could be from the internal gears being slightly too tight or too loose. It doesn't take much either way to create a little notchy feel. Loose is bad and will ultimately lead to stripped internal gears. Tight will usually break in(ideally, a new diff has a slight nothiness before being run). Is there any "play" in the outdrives when you try to diff it by hand? This would typically indicate a slightly loose internal mesh. You described the diff a tight and notchy, though - does it get caught anywhere when manually diffing it, or is there simply a "less than perfectly smooth' feel when diffing it manually?

[RC-Monster Mike]

The little O-rings will actually make it feel a little tighter. I have built the Slipperential with and without them. Without them, an extra shim behind the small internal gears may be helpful. If the notch is due to a slightly lose mesh, the extra shims will help(Mugen shims again should work here as well).

I've changed the place of two ring gears and problem solved:). Before changing the diff gears diff was not only nothcy it stucks on some positions when I turn it by hand.Now it's still nothcy but don't stuck. Thanks for your interest and help. I'll try mugen gears maybe on next rebuild and let you know mike. I'm now tired of fasten and loosen the screws and don't want to open it again:)