Best Slipper and reverse questions -
05.05.2006, 10:24 PM
I am running a 2 speed savage with manual brakes. 9920 ESC and up to 6S LIPO. I want to know what is the best slipper configuration to run. Also is anyone here running reverse? I had all kinds of problems with my reverse. (the manual one servo activated) It kept jumping out of gear. I had to remove it. I can't get any gear mesh when I use the electrical reverse. I didn't think to look at why when I had the tranny tore open. I am sure it is due to the design since the nitro engine can't spin backwards they probably designed it so that it wouldn't mesh in that direction.
You need to program your speedo into 1 way operation, without brakes, i don't quite understand your problem, besides the reverse is giving you the bag?
the stock slipper is fine, you can get delrin spurs, but so far i never had any problems with the stock spur. I did put a ballbearing in the spur, instead of that brass one. (not needed imo)
7XL motor too BTW.....no problem really. I would like to have reverse. ...I meant internal, inside the tranny gear mesh.
As for the SLipper...I am using a RRP metal spur. and I am smoking the stock slipper (pad) in less than 1 minute maybe even less than 30 secs. I measured the spur temp just outside where the pad is covered and pressed against the spur at 365 degrees after it failed once.
This may be a silly idea. But if you are making the spring that tight, arent you basically removing the slipper system? In which case a large bushing may be a good idea?
I was looking at the savage x slipper. It has a dual pad setup instead of the single. I don't know how well it works though. It has twice the pad for twice the holding.
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Yeah Leroy, that is a nice thing, though i personally never needed any, it ran the stocker just fine.. I tightened it all the way, i never succeeded in having the spring laying over eachother though, perhaps you have got a worn out spring.
I tighten it all the way, and loose it with about 1/4th. It still slips that way.
I think I going to go that route. I may run the stocker for a few to see. I have it so run it. I am trying to stuff a 2250 in it though. It don't seem to want to fit as well as I thought.
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Yes The flm extended chassis with lowered cog.
It is not the length. It is a problem of hitting the chassis and lining up with the spur gear. I not sure how it is going to work out yet.
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Well I am using a Robinson Racing Pinion and its slipper, the one that came on teh robinson.
I got the Robinson when I first got into RC..IT seemed smart..metal is stronger right.. That was my thinking.
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/hpi.html
the 7052 was what I got.
on the back of the pinion it uses the same slipper pads as stock and sandwiches it onto the stock plate. I have 3 HPI standard plastic pinions. I will try this tomorrow. Also I wnet and got a slipper from a traxxas 2.5 and modded it to fit behind the metal robinson spur. I now actually have a pad on the tranny side then a steel plate, then 2 pieces of adhesive 150 grit sandpaper one on the plate and the other on the steel plate that sits against the robinson spur which has the stock slipper pad. 2 stock slipper pads with 2 steel plates that have 150 grit adhesive between them. It'll probably explode....
Then I'll put the stock plastic spur on and try that.
Well I tried the stock slipper today and it lasted about 3 mins.....I think the issue may have been the little brass bushing. The bushing melted into the spur and allowed the spur to loose pressure with the plate and transmission plate. I will be gettinga bearing for a spur tomorrow. I see some other better looking spur and slipper combos more plates and pads. But I don't think any will work on the HPI transmission input shaft. I am about to bail on this and go get a truckzilla kit for my savage, and keep the brushless stuff running in the emaxx's. Since I am using 6s lipo I don't think weight should be hurting me to bad.
I don't know
I'm stumped...any ideas??