I'd probably say LST2 then- it's built like a tank so can handle more 'fun' without risk of damaging or bending the impossible to replace Gorillamaxx chassis...
I'd probably say LST2 then- it's built like a tank so can handle more 'fun' without risk of damaging or bending the impossible to replace Gorillamaxx chassis...
While I agree the LST is going to be more durable stock, if you throw some RPM arms on the E-Revo and some different push rods and you have an almost bullet proof truck. I loved my E-Revo, I wish I still had it
+1 on that. If you are going to have "fun" w/no worries w/the Revo, the diffs and a whole host of other parts should be upgraded to be able to have a worry free bash session.
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
What would you suggest for center shafts on an E-REVO? I already have LST diffs in mine and Summit shafts in the back, which have held up well. I have a converted 3.3 using an old 3906 E-Maxx transmission, so I don't think there is a standard length dogbone that will fit (E-REVO rear shaft is too long, front shaft is too short). Needs to be a somewhat narrow shaft so it won't rub on the bulkheads because the transmission output is not centered on the chassis. Are there any drive cups out there that won't get the little dents where the dogbone rides?
Tricky one. If you can work out exactly how long the shafts / dogbones need to be ( upto -5mm say ), then chances are there may be some 1/8 buggy, truggy or MT ones the correct lengtt. Just requires a bit fo searching around- googling the length you need often brings up several options I've found when it comes to random lengths.
As for drive cups, even hardened steel ones seem to develop little dents over time- not much you can do about it, even if the drive pins are a perfect fit with no slop. I'd consider them an item that needs replacing every so often, just like slipper pads and clutch shoes etc etc.