Brushless Rustler

[squeeforever]

Ok guys, I've been wanting a Rustler ever since I saw Joostin420's CF Rustler/buggy thingy and I've finally desided to get a used roller or something since its gonna be brushless imidiately. I have a 7020 already and will probably run 5S lipo on it depending on when I get my lipo packs. If not 5S lipo, it will be around 8 cells. What kinda upgrades are needed and what kind of motor would you recommend for great performance. I don't mind a little speed:D Lastly, what FLM arms to get?? The extended?? As you can see, I don't really know much about the Rustlers as far as how its designed or what parts are the best....Thanks for all help!

[MetalMan]

Here's a list of some off-the-shelf upgrades I did:

-Nitro Rustler front steering conversion with Powerline aluminum carriers and standard plastic hubs. This increases steering throw, and most importantly, allows the use of Nitro Rustler wheels which have the 5x11 bearings in the wheels (less rolling resistance).
-FLM extended front arms. After making and buying extended front arms, they broke, and these are fine so far.
-FLM aluminum bulkhead. It's just a worthwhile upgrade.
-Better steering servo and servo saver.
-For the shocks, the aluminum big bore shock caps are minimum, for front and rear. What would be even better would be all aluminum shocks.
-Aluminum idler gear.
-FLM aluminum tranny case. If you get this, the gears will all run noticably quieter. I don't have the steel/aluminum differential, and haven't stripped a plastic differential gear in a while, which I would attribute to the aluminum gearbox case.
-Rear axle carriers. I use Powerline aluminum 4-tec carriers because they are adjustable and use 5x11 bearings, but also because they work well with my dogbone conversion.
-Steel differential outputs and steel axles (they are for the 4-tec but work with the Rustler), if you are using the stock sliders. I did the dogbone conversion, and it has been working well.

One part I have left stock are the rear arms. The main reason being is that the FLM gearbox uses aluminum arm mounts, and I would probably bend the crap out of the hinge pins with aluminum arms.
Soon I'll get a thread up on my Rustler (since I finished the chassis) and it might give you some ideas.

As for a motor, if you want the ultimate speed with a motor that's readily available, use 4s Lipo with a Feiago/Wanderer 540 12s. That's the motor I have right now, and the same one that Justin runs in his extended (1/8) Rustler. If you use 5s Lipo, you're going to have to special order a motor. For 8 cells, you could use a Feigao 380C 6L, or a Feigao 380C 8t/9t.

[cart213]

You wouldn't have to special order a motor. A Lehner Basic 2700 or 2400 would work on 5s lipo.

[squeeforever]

Well I should have said above, but I would rather stick with a Feigao C motor to keep the cost down as well as the fact that it has a built in heat sink. 4S lipo isn't a possibility since I would run 5S in my E-Revo and I would use the same packs in the Rustler. What do you think about this chassis? I like the looks of it but would kinda like CF better :(. Anywho, what parts would it take to do the dogbone conversion. The Rustler I'm looking at has a couple of dog bones with it, although I have no clue what there for nor does it say, chances are there the right ones to do it. Metalman, what do you think about Ofna buggy shocks? Since the rear are gonna be slightly longer than the front like the Rustler, think they will work? Or are they gonna be to long? BTW, this is gonna be setup for racing/LIGHT bashing. Mostly racing. Will the FLM cast blocks work instead of the Powerline?

[/QUOTE]I did the dogbone conversion, and it has been working well.What dogbone conversion did you do. I have been using MIP CVd's but, they always give up in some way or another. I started to do a dog bone conversion with some HPI parts, but I didn't feel like it was the right combination of parts.

[MetalMan]

Here's a link to the dogbone conversion:
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=242218
All of these parts are made for each other, and fit well. I had problems with this conversion using Nitro Rustler rear axle carriers, but that was fixed when I used the aluminum 4-tec carriers (the plastic ones broke pretty easily).

I used the same material as RCM-RC for my Rustler chassis, except it's a different color (piss green-yellow). I think the RCM-RC chassis isn't adjustable enough for the batteries.

My thoughts on Ofna buggy shocks - My Rustler actually uses Ofna rear Super Shocks (similar to UE shocks) on the rear. I had to put in a couple of downtravel limiters under the piston because they're so long, but they work well. Right now, I'm using the springs they came with and 45wt. oil. The Rustler also has a custom shock tower that allows for good mounting of the shocks, which is something the stock Rustler might not be able to provide. Also, I'm using 4s 6600mah 8C Lipo, so I have extra weight for the springs on the Ofna shocks to carry.
I found that many 1/10 shocks wouldn't cut it for me, so that's why I went 1/8. If this will be a lightweight Rustler, you won't need 1/8 shocks (they would just add unnecessary weight).

The Powerline front caster blocks should work as a replacement for the Powerline ones I use. When I got mine, FLM wasn't even a company :027:. Just make sure to get the Nitro Rustler ones.

[squeeforever]

Thanks! Most of my questions were just answered. Its not really gonna be a lightweight Rusty after I get it all done since its gonna have 5S lipo, all aluminum except chassis, ect. I'm also gonna run Komodoes as well. I don't really want a light weight truck with that much power :p

EDIT: I was looking back and wondering about the width. Would you use the Nitro arms in the rear or standard. Is the front gonna be wider than the rear with the standard in the rear and the extended up front??

[MetalMan]

Standard Nitro Rustler arms are shorter than the arms on the electric. My Rustler is pretty even width-wise in the front and rear with the extended arms in front and Nitro Rustler steering conversion and with Traxxas Lite rear wheels (offset).

[squeeforever]

What would you recommend? I plan on using the dogbone conversion in the rear with Komodoes and Velocitys. Would I have to use a different offset with the standard arms? Or can I run the same offset front and rear with extended arms in the front and rear? If so what bones do you know of that would work? Sorry for all the questions.

[MetalMan]

If you get the Maxx adapters for the Nitro Stampede (Mike sells it, but make sure to specify NITRO Stampede), then you can use the Maxx wheels (14mm hex) with the front Nitro Rustler steering conversion. You'd want to use all offset Maxx wheels.

[squeeforever]

Thats with standard width rear arms or extended? Also, what about the front shocks. With the Ofna buggy rear shocks in the rear, would the front buggy shocks work up front as well? A few limiters aren't a big deal no is making some slightly taller towers if need be.

I like the dog bone conversion idea. Less things to go wrong. One thing I forgot about though is that I'm using Nitro Rustler rear A arms (which are shorter) and the Powerline aluminum 4-tec carriers. The parts I had previously bought were the axle that was mentioned in the other thread, and the dogbone I bought was a 6x83mm http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...72&FVPROFIL=++ I hope these dogbones are about right length for the nitro rustler A arms? They fit the axle. Then all I would need is the proper drive cups.

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Thats with standard width rear arms or extended? Also, what about the front shocks. With the Ofna buggy rear shocks in the rear, would the front buggy shocks work up front as well? A few limiters aren't a big deal no is making some slightly taller towers if need be.

That's with stock rear arms.

I don't think there would really be enough weight in the front of the Rustler to make 1/8 scale shocks worthwhile. They would just add extra unnecessary weight up front.

[Bmr4life]

Front AND Rear FLM extended A-arms, steel idler gear, & 5x11 bearing carries front and rear, are the only Must have upgrades. The other stuff is nice and looks cool, but isn't needed.

If you have more cash to spend, you could go for the aluminum trans case which acts as a heat sink, keeps the gears perfectly meshed all the time, and prevents the motor mount slot from warping allowing the motor to move while the truck is running (strips spurs).

I do keep breaking the part of the axle the rear wheels are bolted on to, but there doesn't seem to be any worthy upgrades available. I've never broken or twisted an axle or plastic output yoke. So cvds/dogbones and steel output yokes aren't a must have either.

[squeeforever]

I think they will be with 5S lipo... Why do you say extended rear arms?