Quark 125 Torque Setting?

[jhautz]

What do you guys have your torque setting at on your Quark 125?

The 4 settings are:
Dynamic
Normal 2
Normal 1
Soft


How much effect does the torque setting have on heat in the esc and heat in the motor? I am assuming that changing this setting will have a bigger efect on the heat in the motor than it does on the esc heat. But, I ask the question because Ive been running my Quark125 at in the highest torque mode (dynamic) and been running fans and heat sinks on the esc to keep the heat in the esc down. I would love to get rid of all that ''extra'' stuff and still run the same gearing I have now.

If I take this down, how much will it effect the heat in both the motor and the esc? How much effect will it have in acceleration and punch? (I was planning on taking it down 1 level anyway, just cuz Ive been tearing up my driveshafts and rear diff.)

[coolhandcountry]

I have ran both on a 80b quark.
It is the way it kicks at the take off.

[jhautz]

But how does the torque setting effect heat in the motor and the esc. Does it have any effect. Will the soft setting run significantly cooler than the dynamic or normal 2setting? I have to assume that it is just some sort of timing thing. Or is this just some sort of electronic governor that will only allow the throttle to move at a preset rate?

Im interested to find out what others are using for this setting.... and why. I just set it up the first time on the highest setting and never really looked back.

[squeeforever]

I would imagine it limits the EPA...

[jhautz]

EPA? Whats that?... Sorry dont mean to sound stupid... Just trying to understand how it works.

[neweuser]

i just the quark 125B too. it seems that there are so many questions, without anyone have having MUCH experience. Is there someone who can answer these questions? Or maybe Mike knows?

[coolhandcountry]

The soft and dynamic setting seem to effect the way it revs up.
It may effect heat some cause on soft it will have a lower amp spike.
That is what I got from testing.
It seems harder to wheelie on the soft than dyanamic.

[Batfish]

Originally Posted by jhautz

EPA? Whats that?... Sorry dont mean to sound stupid... Just trying to understand how it works.

EPA is End Point Adjustment, which is typically set on your radio.
There is an EPA on your throttle and an EPA on your steering.
Normal uses of the throttle EPA is to limit top speed or limit the amount of braking. For example, say your truck is too fast at full throttle (I know, it's NEVER too fast :003: ) but it's a good controllable speed at about 3/4 throttle. If you set your throttle high end EPA to 75 (assuming it's 0-100), your full throttle will now be only 75% of the total. The same idea can be used for braking - if you're used to pushing full brake and it's too much (locks up, etc...) you can adjust your brake EPA down to a level where it brakes to your liking.
The most common ( and VERY important for servo health) use of steering EPA is to make sure your steering servo isn't fighting against the steering throw lock in your vehicle. One good way to set your steering end points is to put your vehicle on a stand, then turn full in one direction. Adjust the EPA for that direction down until the wheels begin to turn back, then adjust step by step until you can turn the wheels fully in that direction without straining your servo against the steering throw lock. Then do the same for the other side. In my experience, most vehicles will have you setting your EPA for steering somewhere between 60 and 80 (based on a 0-100 setting).

Let me know if that helps out with your EPA question. If you want any more info, I'll be happy to help.

[jhautz]

Thanks for the explanation Batfish. Very thorough.

I get the EPA thing now, but if it was that, wouldn't it also effect top speed by just limiting the throtle?

I know in the warior and the mamba controlers there is a timing adjustment you can change if you use the programing cable. I know this has a huge efect on the heat in the motor and the controler along with efecting the torque and slightly efecting speed. Is the ''torue'' setting on the Quark the same thing as the timing setting on the others?

It may be.

I run the standard setting in my lightning and my 10XL is ripping the car apart!

On the EPA note, i may have done a stupid thing, I dont know, I setup my 9920/9XL as normal, with the epa at 100 and after i set it to 120, it seems faster now :). Although, my esc gets to about 150 after 5 mins on 14 cells, extra heat from over throttling?

[jhautz]

Thanks daren. I'm gonna try it and see how it runs on a lower torque setting. Gonna have to wait a week or 2 though. If righ in the middle of doing a overhaul on it to reconfigure the electrinics layout and installing the Gmaxx motor mount so I can get a better heat sink and fan setup on the Quark. Damn thing is smooth as butter, just runs a little on the warm side.


Are you using normal 1 or normal 2?

[neweuser]

Mine was more than a little! LOL, i sent it back though to have it looked at. Will play with it more when i find out more! What torque setting are you guys using?

Standard one as mentioned. Standard one is 'Soft' :O . Would hate to try it on dynamic!

My quark doesnt go above air temp, even on 18 cells, 10XL, 5.2KG truggy.

[jhautz]

I figured Id post this so you others out there that are not happy w/ the temps on their quarks can see if it helps.

I just called Quark to ask them exactly what the torque setting does. They told me that it was just an electronic circut that basicaly just limits the spool up speed of the motor. Its meant as a drive train saver of sorts. And while yes, it will do some to reduce the amp draw, it probably will not have a big effect on reducing the heat in the esc.

After talking w/ him and going through my setup he did make a couple sugestions to help reduce the heat generated.

1) Change to lower Torque setting. I was running Dyanamic.
2) Change my battery type setting to Lipo Normal. I was running Lipo High. He sugested that this should help reduce the heat. It will basically cap the amps that it will allow the system to draw. He also said it would extend run time significantly. I asked him about the NiMH high setting and he said the same thing. If you are running setup inNiMH High and having heat problems to set it to NiMH normal.

I wonder how much effect all of this will have on the performance. Ive kinda gotten used to having earth ripping power on tap.

[BrianG]

Cool information jhautz!

That all makes sense when you think about it. Reducing the torque to a lower setting will gradually apply max power over a longer time reducing that huge spike of current at a standstill or heavy acceleration. Electric motors are known for a large inrush current when starting up which is why you see capacitors on a lot of AC motors. I wonder how far this torque delay setting would have to be increased to act like a Nitro? :005:

The battery high setting sounds like it just uncaps the current so the motor will draw as much as it wants, while the battery normal setting sounds like it acts like a sort of current limiter.

An ESC simply outputs a series of pulses whose duty cycle ("on" time to "off" time ratio) increases as the throttle is applied. The heat comes from the relatively tiny amount of time (probably measured in microseconds, if not nanoseconds) it takes for each of those pulses to go from their "on" state to their "off" state (called slew rate) since heat comes from voltage drop X current. Faster switching FETs (not to be confused with switching frequency) will switch faster and generate less heat. Anyway, adding a current cap with battery high/normal setting should really help reduce temps overall, while changing the throttle response will help curb heat somewhat if doing a lot of stops/starts and hard acceleration.