Andys Monster

Hi,

first of all I want to say hello to everybody, this is my first thread.

And then I wish to thank Mike for all the help, support, tips and parts on this project, which I started
without even a screw from an eMaxx.
Nearly every single part was supplied from Mike (except the pletti and the schulze), Thanks a lot!!!

Please excuse my English... I am from germany.

Here are the Pics from my truck now, I guess It was a good idea to make some photos before I go for the testrun...
Hopefully this maxx will to come through the first test run without any damages.


I guess what you see needs no description.

What you can`t see:

- 8 Spyder diffs
- complete Alloy tranny gears
- Strobe slipper
- UE servo saver

I like the look of the Hummer Body (for MGT, Genesis...) because it fits for my opinion perfect for the wheelbase for the
extended Maxx (Gun-Metal Grey with white Flames and silver Outlines).

I like the "clean" look with no wires that are hanging over the transmission from the rear to the front.

I just screwed two pushrod-ends to the chassis. You need to cut a notch in the round part (the joint) where usually the
screw goes through, so you can easily push the wires in or out, even when the pushrods are screwed to the chassis
(think the notch is useful when you have to replace the wire for some reason). There is even way enough gap to the screws
from the tranny case (without touching the wires when you screw them in and out).

I placed the schulze not under the Pletti because the heat
goes in this position straight up to the pletti and both pletti and schulze gets too hot.

In this position I have a lot of space between the pletti and the schulz, so this stuff can "breath"...

+ I can mount a fan straight to the cooling fins of the schulze

+ I have a lot of space on the right side to mount the BEC

+ I have a much better low center of gravity, the only thing to get the max perfect
balanced is to use on the left side 4 more batteries than on the right side (under the pletti)

So my cell pack is left 10 and on the right side 6 (
I used 5,5 mm High Amp. Goldplugs... good for till 150 Ampere)

For the wheelie bar, I used steel road ends which I polished (I can mount different size rods to adjust the length), slot
car alloy rims and a heavy duty shock which I adjust in length and limited in travel with the white washers which are
usually come with every shock (just placed a couple over the shock shaft inside the shock).. now I guess It will work... but I will see



















Wish me luck for the first testrun....

[Sylvester]

wow~! thats 1 nice truck., hope you have fun for the first run!

[supermaxx4190]

awesome awesome awesome truck, but only 1 problem...integy bulkheads

[Sylvester]

id get FLM bulks, im getting em :)

i see a couple of very costly problems you will have...

The schulze 18.97 is made for 18 cells. Most people burn them out on 16, running them on 20 cells i a given that you'll burn that esc out.

(unless this is a show truck) The aluminum body mounts should be replaced with plastic. Plastic absorbs impact, unlike the aluminum which will just transfer the stress into your shock towers. I'd rather bend a 5 buck plastic body post than break a 20 dollar body post, or 50 dollar shock tower.

(unless this is a show truck) you should replace the aluminum bumper mounts with plastic. The aluminum bumper mounts bends screws and breaks bulkheads, aluminum or plastic.

Also, since your esc is turned sidways, the heat still travels up. And since your heat sink is to the side, it will become usless, you will be experiencing some overheat there.


very nice truck you got! Just keep what i said in mind when you bash. love that wheelie bar!

[supermaxx4190]

hes running 10 cells on one side and 6 on the other side. look closely. and yes replace those bumpers and bodymounts with plastic.

[Sylvester]

yup plastic will do, so hes running 16 cells? cool

[toby]

i liek it a lot

didn't see that. Very unique, must balance out your car very well.

[Smurfy]

Originally posted by Superemaxx89
Also, since your esc is turned sidways, the heat still travels up. And since your heat sink is to the side, it will become usless, you will be experiencing some overheat there.

I hate to make my second post here an argumentive one but blah
Thats simply untrue.
Hot air rises as it becomes less dense, heat through solid objects is largely unchanged by its rotation, the effect of having it sideways is minimal at worst.

That is an extremly nice truck and does look awsome, does look a bit like a shelf queen but nothing wrong with that:)

[Chase023]

Great looking G-Maxx. I really like it.
The wheelie bar looks sweet tho I would of used two shocks to give it better balance on it when it rides on it.

If you intend on using the Integy aluminum bumper, I suggest you run it with only one set of screws on the bottom so when it does hit, it will most likely swing back the bumper instead of bending and breaking the screws. I had a few incidents where I bent and broke the screws on top when it hit. I still use the aluminum ones but I might decide on using the plastic ones later. About the bulkheads, I use the 7075 GA ones which is a little heavy but I like em because even with these crashes, the screws bend and break but the bulkheads stay.

Actually I have no problems running the schulze under the pletty. I also actually have a fan mounted right under it above the driveshaft, which most people haven't noticed yet. I need to get a new fan to replace it tho.

Let us know how the test run goes!

[MaxxFusion]

I like the wheelie bar.

What is the part list to make one?