FLM aluminium tranny case

I've recieve my FLM tranny case for my Stampede yesterday and i buit it last night. But i've a little/big problem, i've put all the gear in the FLM case (top shaft, aluminium idler gear and stock diff gear) and when i'll try to turn the spur by hand:019: they don't want to make a full turn.

It's like if two gear "bind" togheter.

So i'll replace the gear in the stock plastic case and all turn freely.

But WHY the gear seam to "pinch" togheter in the aluminium FLM unit???

I'am disapointed:026:

[seth556]

Hmm, mine had a little problem like that but it all went away after the first run. But I didn't notice anything different during the run.

I use the case myself and it works flawlessly. In fact, it wasn't until I used this case that the tranny finally felt like a quality meshing machine. Which case are you running..Pede, E-Maxx? I assume a pede case from the parts you mentioned. You should make sure the innards are spinning freely before mounting the spur, and work your way in to the problem. You could measure center to center at all the shaft and outputs and compare to your plastic to see if you have a bad case. I can tell you though, if you get a good case the tranny is transformed to a beautiful thing....free of flex and precision mesh.

I've send an e-mail to Jamie at FLM, but he don't reply to my last e-mail that i've send to him 2 week ago.:032:

Don,t know what to do with it...

And yes is the Pede tranny

I'd try and work through Mike first before FLM. But finding the problem should be first order cause your case may be fine.
First thing's first, does the top shaft spin freely without the spur? Is no, the problem is deeper within the case.
You should be able to see the problem prior to assembling the other half of the case. If you hold the top shaft and diff asm perpendicular to the case sides as if the second case half was on it, do the gears mesh correctly? If no, you have a bad case. If yes, repeat but use the other case half. Measuring the center to centers with calipers and comparing is the best way to confirm this. You may be able to use half of the Al case and use the mating half of the plastic case to further isolate the problem. If you back all the screws on the case assembly does the binding loosen up? If so, you may have one too many washers in there or your case is too shallow for some bizarre reason, squeezing the gears. Whatever the reason, you're more likely to get better support when you can talk intelligently about what the problem is. Good luck and don't give up casue a good Al case is sweet love when it fits.

PS. Make it the real deal with the Al diff Mike sells also. You'll never need to deal with a busted diff gear again!

Thank's Cadima, i've did all you said, but when you said to put the gear in one half cover to check the gear mesh, it's barely impossible to have a good idea of the gear mesh. With just one half cover,the top shaft and diff gear swing side to side and it's not sit at their precise place.

So i've measuring the space between the hole of the top shaft and idler gear to compare with the stock plastic case, and find that in the FLM case, the hole is 0.006" (0.1524mm) closer than in the plastic one. I think it's not a big difference, but maybe with an slightly out of round top shaft, it can be enough to make the gear bind togheter.

Don't know if it's normal, if FLM have make it closer to make a closer gear mesh, but it's closer.
AND, yes, i've found an out of round in my top shaft gear, when i put the top shaft in a cordless drill (the top shaft is remove from the tranny here) i can see the gear wobeling pretty much than it's suppose to be.

But,what i can't understand, is if i put the plastic idler in the FLM case, all spin freely, it's with the aluminium idler that the thing go wrong.

...........:032:

may be the tighter tolerances for a good mesh just won't accept the slop of a whcked out top gear shaft.

OK i've replace the top shaft and top gear and all spin very good.
I've order an steel idler from Mike. Like that i hope that my tranny will be bulletproof.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

OK i've replace the top shaft and top gear and all spin very good.
I've order an steel idler from Mike. Like that i hope that my tranny will be bulletproof.

When you get the idler, you'll be good to go!:027:

[Procharged5.0]

Once in a while FLM has an OOPS. I've had several. My FLM chassi & trans case (EMAXX) are due back from "remachining" any daty now.

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

OK i've replace the top shaft and top gear and all spin very good.
I've order an steel idler from Mike. Like that i hope that my tranny will be bulletproof.

I thought this thread was about a FLM Tranny case for a Stampede? If so, what's this steel idler you're talking about? The only steel gear I know of available for the Stampede is the Steel Diff gear.

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by skellyo

I thought this thread was about a FLM Tranny case for a Stampede? If so, what's this steel idler you're talking about? The only steel gear I know of available for the Stampede is the Steel Diff gear.

Actually Mike just put it up on the site...It's on the home page...

Lamon, you are certified bullet proof now! Welcome to the world of all metal trannies.

Yes i'am certified bulletproof, but...:026: my truck is heavy!!!! with all the FLM aluminium parts and the Ofna Hyper 7 suspenssion arm and truggy tires and wheel, i don't put the truck on a scale but it is certainly 1 1/2 heavier than stock, and maybe twice:025:

I'll put it on a digital scale to tell you exactly the weight gain.