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Kershaw Revo.... worth it???
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atreyu
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Kershaw Revo.... worth it??? - 03.04.2007, 10:20 AM

Hi!


This is a newbie here! hope you can teach me some things ;-)

IŽve had an E-Maxx and now I own an E-Zilla, but thought it was time to try the one I think is the best "suspensioned" monster around: the Revo.

The problem is that I am completely into electrics while I have nor idea of nitro stuff.

I have already purchased the Revo front and rear assemblies aswell as the ESC, motor , etc.

Now I have to choose the chassis, and I am thinking about the HCG Kershaw one as I am planning to only bash the E-Revo and I want to have some nice clearance.

The problem is that I cannot find almost any info about users that have had the chance to try it.

Do you have any ideas, inputs, ect???

Should I sacrifice clearance and go for the Gorilla design???

Thanks in advance for the help!!!



Fernando
   
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jollyjumper
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03.04.2007, 10:24 AM

wait 11 days for the G3R, just IMHO.


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BlackedOutREVO
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03.04.2007, 05:22 PM

yup, kd imo is junk, it looks FUGLY as heck, and looks wimpy... wait for the g3r, or get a stock chassis and make the batt trays, and get the tranny fitted... those imo are the only good options
   
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Sylvester
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03.04.2007, 05:30 PM

Kershaw is good for people which dont have access to tools to convert a revo, imo if you can afford a g2/g3r than id go with that!


The problem with nitro's these days are that they arent brushless... LOL

Losi 8ight e
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BrianG
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03.04.2007, 06:16 PM

lol E-MAXX Rock's! I get the slight impression you don't like KD? Sheesh. :)
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BlackedOutREVO
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03.04.2007, 06:32 PM

no, but i mean come on! look at it! compered to a g2r it looks like a lil kid made it lol, takes away the cool look of a revo
   
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suicideneil
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03.04.2007, 06:35 PM

I got that impression too! It does look a little 'utilitarian' though, not all that sleek looking. Modding up a stock revo chassis shouldnt be that hard though- drill 4/8 holes for the emaxx tranny to mount onto, extend the slot for the propshafts a little, and fab up some basic battery mounts out of aluminium L-shaped rod. And voodoo magic, dont forget the voodoo magic for the little bits too.
   
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atreyu
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03.05.2007, 09:39 AM

Thxs for da help! :027:

I was looking for a light short lilŽ Revo... but eveything points out at the Gorilla chassis so my car will end up being almost as big as the good olŽ FLM Maxx :005:

Hope the brand new Feigao 9L can at least move that thing.

IŽll keep ya posted!
   
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BrianG
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03.05.2007, 11:17 AM

Personally, I like using the stock chassis. Some of it is the challenge of the thing. Some of it is that I like tooling around making the parts I need. Besides, once you replace the chassis and tranny, it's really no longer a Revo, ya know? The only thing that's left which makes it a Revo is the suspension really.
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atreyu
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03.05.2007, 11:22 AM

That is precisely what I like about the Revo, the suspension system.

And it is the only thing I have as of today electronics aside; not to say I am not very good at making things from scratch... :S
   
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BrianG
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03.05.2007, 12:30 PM

Well, if the Revo suspension is all you want, then you do have more choices for chassis style.

Another advantage to the stock chassis is that you can use the stock tranny with a nice slipper setup. The tranny internals needs modifications to be able to use motor brake and reverse, but seems to be pretty sturdy. And there is a center diff option for it. :)
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atreyu
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03.12.2007, 05:39 AM

Reading thoroughtly you comments it seems that it is not difficult to modify the stock Revo chassis to admit an E-Maxx tranny (I already got one)... can you please let me know where I can find info of how to do it???

What about the center driveshats and drivecups? is there any mod needed here?

Thxs again!!!
   
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BrianG
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03.12.2007, 10:03 AM

Maybe someone here can post pics of the process, but it's really quite simple. You just use a dremel tool to shave away a little bit of the chassis here and there until it fits. It's much easier if you have both the chassis and the tranny case in your hand. Once you stick the tranny in the hole, you'll see what needs to be shaved. Just do a little at a time so you don't take too much material off.

Then, it's just a matter of drilling the new screw holes. The 4 that are already on the chassis need to be "elongated" to fit the maxx tranny, but that's just a few minutes of file work. Then, you may or may not want to drill the other 4 holes. I did. Some people just use 4 with no issues.
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atreyu
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03.12.2007, 11:01 AM

Thks for the exlpanation; this point seems to be clear.

But what about the driveshafts... will the stock one fit??? is there any mod needed? ??
   
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Finnster
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03.12.2007, 11:43 AM

The EMaxx tranny adaptation is quite easy, as Brian said. I would also recommend making a paper template of the Emaxx tranny and marking the outline of the hole and screw holes before you start working. I also used a hand file, the dremmel can get away from you fast and make a mess if you are not careful. Its not a lot of work to do by hand. :)

Assuming you are using a 2.5 chassis, I know the front stock drive shafts will work. The only trick is the emaxx tranny sits a bit higher, so the u-joint will rub slightly. Its obvious where when the tranny is in. Use a dremmel here to remove a bit of material on the chassis until the shafts spin freely.

As far as the rear goes. The same problem. I'm personally using a steel driveshaft I bought from mi amigo Brian, but the stock shafts should work. Just remove the bit of chassis material that rubs near the tranny. Mike can make these inexpensively if you wish.

Total job for both should be ~1hr.
   
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