mad force conversion to twin force

[tonka truck]

Mike and anyone else

I am considering another project and just after some advice.

Conversion of nitro mad force to twin force (gears kept stripping when running nitro - haven't been able to identify problem yet)

It seems by looking at the manual that most parts are similar, but just wanted to know about parts from you, recommendations about motors and mods that I may need?

[Dafni]

You want to keep it 3-speed?
If your nitro engine kept blowing gears, they wont stand a chance against BL.

I never had problems on my MF, you have to carefully adjust the mesh. But nevertheless, I like my BL-TF better.

Just get yourself a TF center chassis plate and a TF Motor mount and you're ready to go!

[tonka truck]

no 3 spd, I want to take the gears out and replace with the motor mount and spur gear from the twin force.

I was looking to run two seven cells packs (GP3300). What speed and runtime could I get.

Also, can I just drill into the MF chassis plate because they look kinda the same in the manuals.

I am really not sure why the gears stripped. It seems that my setpu from the shop was off. Anyway just want to make use of the truck rather than it gather dust.

[RC-Monster Mike]

What gears are stripping? The 3 speed gears? Perhaps a tighter/more precise gear mesh could help in this area. The Twin/mad force trucks are fun trucks, but the diffs need to be upgraded almost immediately(go to the full set of gears in each diff). I imagine converting to electric would be pretty simple-just need the tranny/center section of the chassis.

[Dafni]

Indeed, just get a motor mount, and perhaps a center chassis plate. The side plates are identical to the TF, you'll just need a few extra holes for the batt trays.

Get the helical bevel gears.

[tonka truck]

Mike: the three speed gears are stripping. On the inside there is a bump which the clutch engages. It was this bump that wore. Even new out of the box it shredded the gears and so was the mesh was factory set. I was thinking that the flywheel clutch on the engine may have smething to do with it.

For conversion, would you be able to supply me with the kyosho parts?

Dafni: I was looking at keeping the truck stock, except to get the spur, pinion gear setup and drill holes to suit on the exisitng chassis plate (save a few $$$)

For performance, looking to use x2 8.4 NiMh (GP3300) packs (16.8v in total). What motor will achieve a good balance b/w run time and accerelation/ speed (similar to nitro)

[Dafni]

It's a good idea to get the helical or steel gears for the diffs, believe me.
Do you had an RTR or the kit? RTR has helical in the rear.

I use the 9L/9918 in my 14 cell TF, works good.

[tonka truck]

I have the RTR version and notice in the diffs only two gears. I agree that upgrading is necessary.

How about putting diff oil in - 10000wt?

The 9l and 9918, how do find them on the drive train??

[Dafni]

Oh, I just meant the ring-gear and pinion. I left the spyders stock, no problem so far.

Well, the BL gnaws at the drive cups, but that's no real concern. So far mine holds up good.

You have the RTR, well, then I would get the same ringgear in front as you aready have in the rear.

[tonka truck]

What bl setup could put in to still give good performance, but less wear and tear on the drivetrain???

[RC-Monster Mike]

basic xl2800 or xl2400 would both be excellent choices IMHO.

[Dafni]

Or if you're looking for something "mild", you could get the Novak HV.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Yes, The Novak HV is another good option.

[tonka truck]

is there any glitching associated with this system?? I will be using the stock AM futaba Tx and Rx.

[Dafni]

Dunno about the HV, but my Nemesis/Warrior has yet to glitch. Just isolate your antenna wire from the chassis, and keep it as far away from the motor as possible.

And yes, I still run AM on all my trucks:o